Platinum is heavier than 18k gold by around 33% if I remember correctly. Right now, raw platinum’s price is a little lower than gold’s. However, since platinum is so much denser than gold, making one piece in platinum requires a lot more ounces of platinum than making that same piece in white gold. Also, the labor costs of forging platinum are higher than the costs to forge gold, because platinum is a much more difficult material to work with. So selling the same piece in platinum would cost more.
I find it very rare to find European jewelry companies that use platinum. As an example, Cartier creates its panther collection using both white gold and platinum, but white gold is much, much, much more prevalent. I don’t understand why it can’t make everything panther in platinum, if it’s something that it’s already doing. Especially when the price point is already in the six figures. Whatever, I guess.
I think the reason why so many companies prefer using white gold comes down to economics — like most other business decisions. Not many jewelers know how to cast platinum, so it’s harder to find employees who can work with it. White gold is easier to manipulate, it uses less material, and it’s cheaper on the whole. I also think it’s a more familiar metal for the end consumer, although I also think most high-end customers would know about platinum.
Even though platinum is pretty much always a better choice for jewelry (it holds diamonds more securely, it doesn’t tarnish, it’s denser, it doesn’t need plating, it wears better) companies like Richemont probably don’t feel pressure to offer more creations in platinum, since the customers don’t seem to mind the difference. In fact, it may even be the case that their customers would prefer to save a couple thousand dollars in choosing white gold, rather than buy platinum.
The one thing I like about white gold is that it’s whiter than platinum. At least at first. But this is only because of the rhodium plating. And I’ve heard that you can also rhodium-plate platinum, if you want that super white finish. For earrings, there may also be a slight advantage for white gold since they’d be lighter. But that would have to be a pretty ornate pair of earrings for you to feel the difference.
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