So lovely to start seeing all the IRL photos! And now that they are making their way into stores & onto the website, I've found almost (but not) all of the scarf's "the story behind" from hermes.com, which I always enjoy reading & am going to dump them here. A lot are re-issues and not necessarily new designs for this season but I'm including them all for completeness.
Quadrige II by Pierre Péron
A quadrige, or quadriga, is an ancient four-horse, two-wheel chariot usually used for racing. By analogy, “quadriga” also refers to a sculpture representing a quadriga. Famous quadriga sculptures include those at the Grand Palais, in Paris, the Brandenburg Gate, in Berlin, and the one on the Parthenon frieze, at the Acropolis Museum. A new version of a scarf from the seventies, “Quadrige” is an exercise in style that plays on interweaving four horse heads and harnesses, like the pieces of a puzzle. Its extremely stylised pattern, graphic look with large full-tone areas, uninterrupted line outlining the horses’ manes, and braided cords around the edge all come together to give the scarf a very fashionable seventies feel.
Ex-Libris by Hugo Grygkar
Creator of great classics of the house such as the famous Brides de gala, Hugo Grygkar composed this scarf in 1946. An ex-libris is a distinctive marking chosen by a booklover to personalise the works in his library. In 1923, Émile‑Maurice Hermès, the grandson of the founder of the house, chose to this effect a design by Alfred de Dreux (1810-1860) preserved in his collection: Duc attelé, groom à l’attente, which he placed above his initials EMH. From one side to the other, a caducée, attribute of the Greek god Hermès, symbolises peace and commercial transactions. This design became the emblem of the house. Around this medallion four elegant horse-drawn carriages are inspired by the original designs of carriage-makers conserved in the Émile Hermès collection.
Eperon d'Or by Henri d'Origny
At first glance, this design is a harmonious and complex intertwining, a skillfully orchestrated composition of leather and metal, loops and circles, a rosette inscribed in a square... Follow this mysterious grid without beginning and without end. Spurs, stirrup irons, rein buckles and whips with three golden rings: the harness of the Cadre Noir de Saumur squires, a prestigious French cavalry school created in the 19th century, traces its curves and straight lines.
Hermès Electrique by Dimitri Rybaltchenko
In the spotlight, Hermès has fun covering its tracks. Like a village during a festival, a circus tent, or a Broadway musical comedy, the Hermès name shines bright! In this Dimitri Rybaltchenko composition, the letters are the acrobats, the ambiance is electric, energetic, and dynamic: attention Ladies and Gentlemen, the show is about to begin!
Della Cavalleria by Virginie Jamin
Naturally, the art of horsemanship features prominently in the Émile Hermès collection. Among the volumes dedicated to the subject, one of the finest and best-known is Della Cavalleria, a remarkable treatise on the art of riding, by German author Georg Engelhard von Loehneyss, who printed the work at his home in Remlingen, in Bavaria, in 1609. Featuring a wealth of wood-cuts and copper-plate engravings, the book is a veritable encyclopedia of the equestrian world, covering everything from dressage to anatomy, tournaments and festivals, accompanied by spectacular illustrations.
Inspired by the theme of metamorphosis, Virginie Jamin exploits the printmaker's delicacy of line to present a selection of bridlery pieces. Extravagant, chimeric figures – dragons, horses with serpents' bodies, and more – describe an array of bits and straps.
Hermès Tea Time by Jonathan Burton
What a surprising way to celebrate tea time! A prince takes his belle on a poetic walk through a field of hearts – a love affair, no doubt. In their wake, a discreet butterfly attracts the attention of some riders. What is their destination? Have they managed to escape from a card game or are they on a journey to the edge of their kingdom? Here, the English designer Jonathan Burton, famous for his fantasy universes often inspired by fairy tales, gives pride of place to dreams and romanticism.
Carrosses d'Or by Vladimir Rybaltchenko
Designed in 1987 by Vladimir Rybaltchenko, Carrosses d'or surprises with its relief play. The rinceaux, or scrolls – the decorative leaf patterns characteristic to the ancient or classic eras – seem to jump out from the silk. Inspired by older pieces stored in Émile Hermès' collection, once upon a time, they adorned the doors of rich princely harnesses, like those whose silhouettes can be discerned here. Louis XVI's sacred carriage, later destroyed in the French Revolution, can be spotted in the upper left corner.
Rendez-Vous Chez Hermes by Carine Brancowitz
What mysterious rendezvous is this elegant woman preparing for, with her keys slipped hastily into her pocket? At the bottom of the library, her loyal Dalmatian waits patiently: is he a part of the game? Here, Carine Brancowitz depicts her dreams as a Parisian student. While living in the Latin Quarter, the young designer daydreamed about her mysterious neighbors, sometimes falling in love with them. Each surprise musical note around a corner, each poem performed at a window, each soft step on a landing was a new clue and she enjoyed imagining these anonymous lives.
L'Epopee d'Hermes Detail by Jan Bajtlik
[description same as the original full scarf design]
Six generations have followed each other to write the history of Hermès, which is based around encounters and inspired by new innovations. Today, the seventh generation continues the founding spirit, marked by audacity and elegance, while looking resolutely to the future. The designer Jan Bajtlik has created a goose game to illustrate this abundant adventure, which began in 1837 when Thierry Hermès founded his harness and saddle factory in Paris. The founder, placed at the center of this joyful spectacle, is surrounded by characters who have shaped the history of Hermès. Charles-Émile Hermès, who established the family's saddlery business at 24, Faubourg Saint-Honoré in 1880, is having fun as a child on his rocking horse! In the distance, a spaceship takes off towards unknown planets, just like Hermès, continually setting its sights on new horizons.
Grand Theatre Nouveau by Gianpaolo Pagni
The Épinal imagery was founded in Vosges, France in 1796. For two centuries, this printing house distributed colored images throughout Europe, illustrating countless subjects: exotic fauna and flora, common trades, historical events, fables and legends, riddles, etc. Gianpaolo Pagni had the privilege of accessing the archives of this house and exploring its secrets. Inspired by the ancient engravings he discovered there, he composed this surprising theater scene that features wild animals as the protagonists. An ingenious combination of geometric patterns that evokes the characteristic work of his drawings created with stamps.
Grand Tralala by Virginie Jamin
During the reign of Franz Joseph I of Austria (1848-1916), the Royal Hungarian Bodyguard was responsible for the security of the emperor and provided his escort. Their mounts wore a ceremonial harness with gleaming buckles, such as this bridle that unfolds its colored leather straps. The floral motifs were inspired by paintings on wood by the German decorative artist Moritz Meurer that are preserved in the Émile Hermès collection. By naming the design Grand Tralala, Virginie Jamin reinvents the spirit of the emblematic equestrian designs of Hermès.
Danse Pacifique by Laurence Bourthoumieux
Headdresses adorned with colorful feathers are delicately placed below shells characteristic of the Pacific Ocean - in particular cowries, which are recognizable due to their oval shape and jagged center. Until the beginning of the 20th century, these were the main currency of exchange in the archipelagos and they often adorned ceremonial costumes. Here, the designer Laurence Bourthoumieux pays tribute to the culture of Papua New Guinea. More than 700 different languages coexist in this part of the world, which is also renowned for the diversity of its landscapes, tropical forests, mountains and savannah.
Eleftheria by Elias Kafouros
Elias Kafouros commemorates the bicentenary of his country's independence and celebrates the courage of his compatriots. His design unfolds like a flag and each letter of the Greek word for "freedom" is written in a characteristic landscape of the country's three regions: Continental Greece, the Peloponnese, and the islands of the Aegean sea. Mountainside houses, bell towers, ancient colonnades, bridges, and terraces flower at the heart of luxurious nature. A lake is superimposed at the center of the letter "θ", taking the shape of a blue eye – a symbol the Greeks see as warding off bad luck. Here, it symbolizes citizens' open gaze regarding their cultural, social and human heritage. Resolutely turned towards the future.
Masan & Masan by Terawat Teankaprasith
In Thailand where they flourish, water hyacinths are collected, then dried in the sun before being woven. They are used for basketry to create various objects such as baskets, hats, sandals and animal-shaped toys. The Masan, which means "woven horse" in Thai, is one of them. The designer Terawat Teankaprasith, who was one of the six winners of the Grand Prix du Carré Hermès launched in 2019, took inspiration from this ancestral expertise to create a striking and majestic piece.
Balade Ecossaise by Florence Manlik
[note: only found French version so far]
Le tartan est un motif d'origine celtique porté en Écosse à partir du XVIe siècle pour identifier son appartenance géographique puis familiale, chaque association de couleurs représentant l'identité d'un clan. Florence Manlik célèbre ce motif traditionnel, qui rehausse d'une touche de fantaisie les courbes classiques d'un équipage. Notez l'élégant décor de la portière, la finesse de la lanterne qui, derrière le siège du cocher, éclaire des balades impromptues. La miniature nichée sous le marchepied est inspirée par le carrosse du sacre du roi de France Charles X, dont une estampe colorisée est conservée dans la collection Émile Hermès.
Lift Profilé by Shan Merry
In the center of the design, framed by antique bridle bits, two intertwined "H" letters symbolize the marriage of Émile Hermès and Julie Hollande in 1900. This monogram was displayed on the doors of the 24 Faubourg store during its major renovation in 1924 and still adorns the elevator that was inaugurated at the time. A few decades later, Richard Nixon, then President of the United States, found himself trapped there in front of the staff and his stunned bodyguards. In memory of this adventure, the elevator was renamed after its famous captive. At Hermès, sometimes a small story becomes part of a larger one.
Duo Cosmique by Kohei Kyomori
In Tantric Buddhism, "A-Un" refers to the beginning and end of everything. This philosophical concept is embodied here in the form of a couple with complementary energies. Japanese designer Kohei Kyomori, winner of the Grand Prix du Carré Hermès launched internationally in 2019, pays tribute to Japanese culture and its traditional kimono designs. As such, a tiger, the embodiment of courage, adorns the man's jacket. Meanwhile, a peony flower, the symbol of perfection, touches the turban head wrap of his companion.
Lazy Leopardesses by Arlette Ess
Often known as a panther in popular culture, the leopard has always embodied poise and royalty. This endangered species is now subject to a hunting ban in most countries where it is known to occur. Swiss designer Arlette Ess, who won third place in the Grand Prix du Carré Hermès launched internationally in 2019, chose to depict the felines resting and enjoying a well-deserved nap.
Mors à Jouets Chemise Détail by Henri d'Origny
Henri d’Origny’s design Mors à jouets is one of the house’s great equestrian classics. Placed in the horse’s mouth and connected to the reins, the bit allows the rider to steer his mount. They are called à jouets (“mouthing bits”) when they are dotted with small beads of metal that encourage salivation and help the animal to relax its mouth. A detail of this composition has been enlarged to become the subject of the scarf itself. Set against a background of fine stripes reminiscent of the cotton weaves used to make men’s shirts, it becomes the Mors à jouets chemise.
Zouaves et Dragons by Virginie Jamin
While looking through the pages of an album of 19th century military costumes in the Émile Hermès collection, Virginie Jamin was struck by the power of these designs. The scarf receives its name from outfits of French light infantry units in Africa called Zouaves, and cavalry soldiers fighting on foot or horseback known as Dragons. Adorned with trimmings, stripes, braids and silk embroidery, these costumes seemed to come to life. "I seemed to hear their conversation" she says, "I could see (...) a singular link, like the one that unites the dancers of a troupe". A dream that inspired this composition like a choreographed piece with a swirl of jackets.
Hermes Dress Code by Daniel Clowes
A truly unique gallery of portraits! Historical, mythical and totally unusual characters feature in this game of posing for an invisible photographer – Marie-Antoinette, Fantomas and the winged-hat god are all dazzled by the camera. American illustrator Daniel Clowes, an author of graphic novels inspired by 1950s comics, playfully mixes genres and eras, while also evoking the wild atmosphere of masquerade balls in the early 20th century. "Who am I?", the pretty woman seems to ask in the center. With flawless hair and a domino mask concealing her eyes, she is the real heroine of this double-sided scarf.
De l'Ombrelle aux Duels by Pierre Marie
With this double-sided scarf, the designer Pierre Marie retraces ten years of creation for Hermès, from L'Ombrelle Magique, designed in 2010 to the recent Duels Oniriques. The references are endless and show the diverse themes addressed by the artist. Delicate foliage, playing cards, mosaics and multiple geometric patterns are superimposed, creating different levels to form an extravagant arrangement. A La Maison des Carrés piece can be found in the lower-left corner, while above, an inverted hourglass echoes Le Laboratoire du Temps and its extraordinary composition.
Clair de Lune by Dimitri Rybaltchenko
As though revealing the hidden face of the Moon, the scarf is divided between shadow and light. A crescent showered in stars borders a wide disk upon which the powerful body of the winged horse, Pegasus, appears - a divine creature with a disheveled mane. Dimitri Rybaltchenko creates a symbolic image, traced on the moon's surface, with tiny geometrical detailing whose forms evoke a secret code.
Cheval de Fete by Jan Bajtlik
This design by Jan Bajtlik joyfully pays tribute to the posters of the Polish School from the 1950s to the 1970s. The artists of Warsaw broke with the era’s conventions to illustrate films, plays, concerts and exhibitions. More than just a question of drawing the eye, they sought to harness the art of detail through the use of simple lines and emblematic figures. Rosettes, ribbons and geometric patterns recall the power of these creations. The mischievous face of Kluska, the designer’s dog, makes an appearance on the right of the composition.
Bingata by Natsuno Hidaka
Developed in the 14th century, Bingata is a dyeing process originating from the Okinawa archipelago, when it was the Ryukyu Kingdom, at the crossroads of trade routes between Southeast Asia, China and the Japanese Empire. Different techniques are combined to create the Bingata. First, a stencil is applied to the fabric, then this is coated with a rice paste in order to reproduce the patterns on the material. The areas to be painted are soaked in a soy-based mix to help fix the color pigments. The result is incredibly delicate, as this scarf designed by Natsuno Hidaka exemplifies, taking inspiration from this expertise.
La Danse des Amazones by Édouard Baribeaud
The Franco-German artist Édouard Baribeaud likes to combine mythical events with present moments. Here, a young woman half-concealed by a screen appears almost like an extension of its painted procession of amazons. In this composite interior, where antique mosaics feature alongside modern furniture, she seems to be preparing for a dinner or celebration. The scene abounds with contemporary and symbolic elements, such as a vinyl record that conveys the party atmosphere. Displayed in medallions around the edges of the design are emblems such as the owl, an allegory of wisdom, and the pomegranate, the fruit symbolic of fertility and knowledge.
Springs Bandana by Philippe Ledoux
In English, "spring" refers to leaf springs that ensure the reliability of horse-drawn vehicles' suspension so wheels return to their original positions after a jolt. In Philippe Ledoux's design, they interweave and create a composition where friezes and dotted lines outline different cart models. This city cart, invented in the eponymous German city and in the fashion of the 19th century, was used by English sovereigns during coronations and weddings - it's still used to this day for official ceremonies.
L'Ombrelle Magique by Pierre Marie
There once was a prince who wanted to marry a young woman, as free as the wind and as beautiful as a bird. The Old Hermit of the Chestnut Tree offered him a magic umbrella, decorated with a porcelain bird-woman, which took him all around the world, from north to south and east to west. When he finally kissed her lips, a young woman appeared, freed from a curse cast upon her. This cane-umbrella from the Émile Hermès collection is a fairy tale heroine. Sewn with pheasant feathers, it's topped with a porcelain figure decorated with flowers. The designer's hand was guided by the poetry of this object created at the beginning of the 21st century by the German manufacturer, Meissen.
Les 12 Leopards by Jin Kwon
It's time for these twelve leopards to rest. All of them laze around, half hidden by the foliage or slumbering in the center of a strange open-air workroom. All of them? No! One of them has put on a pair of glasses and is enjoying the contents of a mysterious book, while another is exploring scrolls in a box. The Korean artist Jin Kwon creates a dream in the spirit of the folding screens of her country, at the heart of a jungle where sophistication and curiosity abound. The abundance of vegetation is matched by the countless knick-knacks, pots and notebooks in the colors of Hermès: a fascinating disarray that is fitting for any collector.
Paisley Blossom by Alina Honore
[missing still]
Jumping by Philippe Ledoux
[missing still]
Chevaux en Liberté by Jean-Louis Sauvat
[missing still]
Etude pour un Carré 2.0 by Benoît-Pierre Emery
Straps, stirrups and saddlery buckles are superimposed to create a picture with pure lines and a graphic interpretation of the equestrian language of Hermès. By revisiting the codes of technical drawing, Benoît-Pierre Emery pays tribute to precise lines and a sense of detail, two qualities that have made Hermès famous since its creation in 1837.
Quatre Chevaux by David Bartholoméo
The four horseshoes symbolize luck and the four elements: air, water, earth and fire. The designer wanted to represent the delicate balance that unites them with all living beings. Land animals, as well as creatures from the sea and sky swirl around, as if transported by a gentle breeze. In the center, two legendary figures preside over this abundant procession: a phoenix rises from its ashes, not far from a majestic dragon. The infinitely large come together with the infinitely small, just like in our world.
Faubourg Party by Tibor Karpati
The Hungarian cartoonist Tibor Karpati depicts the historic address of Hermès as a world of pixels inspired by 1980s video games, creating a night of madness that will undoubtedly last until dawn. Under a starry sky, the 24 Faubourg store is transformed into a nightclub! To the rhythm of an electronic melody, there is dancing from the first floor to the terrace. The celebration is bizarre and fantastical: a dinosaur has crept in among the guests and an elephant takes center stage in the ballroom. In one of the windows of the top floor, a woman scatters a bunch of clothes: could it be the Hermès artistic director of the men's universe, presenting the dancers with pieces from a future collection?
Hermès Entrelacé by Anamorphée
The Émile Hermès collection houses a copy of the German riding treatise Della Cavalleria, published in Bavaria in 1609. The richly illustrated book has inspired several designers of scarfs, and the Anamorphée artist collective has also immersed itself in this prestigious book. A selection of antique bridles and harnesses is combined with the six letters of Hermès, enhanced by a perspective effect. The ensemble forms a picture that looks like an elegant alphabet book.
Rue du Sellier by Jin Kwon
Designer Jin Kwon revisits the classic vocabulary of horse and carriage – with bridle bits, stirrups, buckles and harnesses – to create a dynamic composition reminiscent of a city map. The plan of this city composed of leather elements – with a saddle stitch at every corner! –reveals his careful attention to detail. A true labyrinth of squares and sculpted avenues, as well as bridges and crossings. A horse is hidden within the design. Can you find it ?
Chic, Le Sport ! by Dongjoo Seo
[only French version so far]
Le dessinateur coréen Dongjoo Seo célèbre l'art du sport, et laisse entrevoir derrière les galeries couvertes de ce patio différents terrains de jeu, tandis qu'une ribambelle d'accessoires semble surgir des ouvertures. Raquettes, rames, fleurets, skateboards, quilles et ballons en tout genre suivent les lois de l'attraction terrestre ! Au centre, un cheval consciencieux vient de terminer un parcours d'obstacle qui rappelle les six lettres de la maison Hermès. À chacun son sport !
Hermes, Drive Me Crazy by Yoni Alter
A motorcycle and a team of horses ride together towards an unknown horizon. The designer Yoni Alter combines two speed symbols in a race that transcends styles and eras. The chrome handlebars echo the horses' harnesses. The mechanics of the engine are complemented by the spirit of the thoroughbred. The superimpositions and various plays of relief give this design the flamboyance of pop icons.
Hermès en Tracé by Anamorphée
In the first half of the 20th century, Dadaism and Surrealism transformed the international art scene and reinvented the codes of the era by promoting burlesque and dreamlike fantasies. The Anamorphée artist collective presents a design with entangled lines, which initially escapes the eye. Each letter of Hermès Paris has been drawn in the graphic continuity of the previous one. The H moves, the R is inverted, and the I is upside down. But if you look closely, each of the letters finds their place – and the words that are formed become meaningful. It reads : HERMÈS PARIS.
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