The Dwich Collection

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#18
duggi84 said:
A few of you probably already know of my Dwich Rough H Casa Sac 25. It's the bag which actually brought me to the store for the first time for myself (rather than going along with my husband @netinvader) to ask if it could still be purchased. We initially assumed it was a "sellier" version of the Toolbox (would make sense, right?), but in fact it was no longer available...our SA had never seen one before when I showed him images I'd found!

Fast-forward, I purchased a Rose Azalee Toolbox 20 (which I adore), but my mind kept going back to the vintage "waffle toolbox" for sale online, so I snapped it up the same week I got the TB20, when it happened to go on sale. Upon arrival, I promptly brought it to the San Francisco store for Spa treatment (of course on the prompting of our SA, who I think was excited to see it). While the bag was away, more research was done and itchy fingers took us to far corners of the web...where we found more Dwich leather pieces that we couldn't resist, and now that the "Casa Sac" (not "Toolbox Sellier") is back from the Spa, we can introduce them all and provide a little more information! Here's all of them...the Casa Sac 25, Plume 32 (which is his), and three bracelets (Black, Raisin, and Rouge H):

View attachment 5034204
(clearly the Casa Sac has more mileage than the Plume 32...this is the first time we've seen them together and we were surprised at the difference in color. The Plume looks like it was never used...maybe once and the patina and age on the Casa Sac is lovely. The Craftsman was wonderfully thoughtful in his care, letting the bag's patina remain while still making it beautiful and even.)

Here's the details I've found out so far:
  • The leather is actually called Dwich (previously discovered by a forum member here, @seton)
  • The Hermès Craftsman at the SF store was able to confirm that it is Evercalf
  • The leather was (as stated other places on the web), stretched over a metal frame with a gentle heat and vacuum application to get the pattern
  • As far as I have been able to find out, the Dwich leather was available on the following items:
  • All items appear to have been made in 2003 (G stamp with a square around it), including all ours, and all seen online
  • It was part of the Spring/Summer 2003 collection, but was rumored to have been available in-stores through 2004

I've added links in the above bullets to Instagram photos I've found of the named items, which I don't have photos of my own for.

If anyone has any other Dwich pieces, or additional information, please share!

And now more photos =)
Click to expand...

1 more for your collection...

onlineonly.christies.com

A LIMITED ROUGE H SWIFT LEATHER WAFFLE SELLIER KELLY 32 WITH PALLADIUM HARDWARE

GRADE: 232 w x 23 h x 10 d cmincludes lock, keys, clochette, shoulder strap, two small dustbags, ribbon and box
onlineonly.christies.com onlineonly.christies.com

E18197A8-331B-4727-9A09-17E3B906BE9F.png
 
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#23
1663289896419.jpeg

Hello friends! After a long-while of not posting (eesh 2022 has turned out busy!), I'm back to share some recent developments on the subject of the Dwich leather. First, I finally found the clutch that was part of the collection and am excited to have the chance to own it. It's a lovely piece of design and functionality. Second, I happened to connect with the artist who worked for Hermés when this collection was launched, and was the person who invented and designed the Dwich leather! It was an accidental side effect of my deeper research, but a wonderful connection opportunity that I'm glad to have had. And because of that connection, I've learned a LOT and have finally some solid answers to long-standing questions, such as what leather is it actually made of? Evercalf. How was it made? With vacuum (as suspected) and a press, where the grid is actually sandwiched between two layers of leather; this is also the source of the name, Dwich for sanDwich! The material in-between? It's a grid made from a polymer, similar in construction to a tennis racquet.

Apparently the leather is extremely difficult to work with, and each piece is hand-made with the grid (so no, there were no whole skins of Dwich out there) and required the leather to be very thin, but durable. Due to the difficulty in working, the pieces were limited in production, and is why we haven't seen them again (although my husband and I suspect some learnings from this were taken as inspiration for making the Shadow Birkin).

I also learned the names of the designs: the "Toolbox" is indeed called a Casa, after a house-shaped bag the artist found in a Paris vintage market, the clutch is called Rue de Seine after a street in the 6th Arrondissement of Paris, and the bracelets are called Cadrille (I assume a play on the Quadrille design motif).

We were very honored and excited to meet the artist and learn this information, and am excited to pass along some details that were shared and felt safe to do so. Enjoy!
 
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#24
duggi84 said:
View attachment 5611306

Hello friends! After a long-while of not posting (eesh 2022 has turned out busy!), I'm back to share some recent developments on the subject of the Dwich leather. First, I finally found the clutch that was part of the collection and am excited to have the chance to own it. It's a lovely piece of design and functionality. Second, I happened to connect with the artist who worked for Hermés when this collection was launched, and was the person who invented and designed the Dwich leather! It was an accidental side effect of my deeper research, but a wonderful connection opportunity that I'm glad to have had. And because of that connection, I've learned a LOT and have finally some solid answers to long-standing questions, such as what leather is it actually made of? Evercalf. How was it made? With vacuum (as suspected) and a press, where the grid is actually sandwiched between two layers of leather; this is also the source of the name, Dwich for sanDwich! The material in-between? It's a grid made from a polymer, similar in construction to a tennis racquet.

Apparently the leather is extremely difficult to work with, and each piece is hand-made with the grid (so no, there were no whole skins of Dwich out there) and required the leather to be very thin, but durable. Due to the difficulty in working, the pieces were limited in production, and is why we haven't seen them again (although my husband and I suspect some learnings from this were taken as inspiration for making the Shadow Birkin).

I also learned the names of the designs: the "Toolbox" is indeed called a Casa, after a house-shaped bag the artist found in a Paris vintage market, the clutch is called Rue de Seine after a street in the 6th Arrondissement of Paris, and the bracelets are called Cadrille (I assume a play on the Quadrille design motif).

We were very honored and excited to meet the artist and learn this information, and am excited to pass along some details that were shared and felt safe to do so. Enjoy!
Click to expand...
What a beautifully curated collection! Thank you so much for the details - I agree with you on the shadow Birkin. Now for that Kelly! In the meantime, wear your babies in good health!
 
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#26
lurketylurk said:
I have never seen this before - a waffle plume!
amorevintagejapan.com

Hermes 2003 PLUME 32 Waffle Deutch Black

Product Details *Not all items online are in stores in Tokyo. If you wish to see a physical item, please contact us in advance. HERMES PLUME 32 Handbag Waffle Deutch Black Engraved / Number 31S.O □G：Production in 2003 Pocket Outside: - Inside: Pocket*3 Size(Inch) W 12.6 x H 9.1 x D 4.3 " Handle...
amorevintagejapan.com amorevintagejapan.com
View attachment 5855080
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Hope you enjoy this thread! ;)
 
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#28
Virevolte said:
Does anyone know anything about the Waffle Plume? I am obsessing over this one, a 32 in Rouge H Box, under the Sothebys “buy it now” listings:


Was this a Martin Margiela design? I can’t remember what year he left the house and JPG arrived….
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Have a read at this thread. ;)

Martin Margiela was at Hermès until 2003 and JPG joined and succeeded him in the same year until he retired in 2010.
 
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#29
Meta said:
Have a read at this thread. ;)

Martin Margiela was at Hermès until 2003 and JPG joined and succeeded him in the same year until he retired in 2010.
Click to expand...
Thank you for this thread! I just bought the above-referenced 👆🏼Plume 32 and received it today. I came here to learn more about the leather, advertised as Box on the Sotheby’s website. When I got it, I thought it seemed more like the Swift bags I have. And I guess it is actually Evercalf. I’m thrilled to have learned more and have been obsessing over this bag and leather for months.
 
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#30
SusanitaC said:
Thank you for this thread! I just bought the above-referenced 👆🏼Plume 32 and received it today. I came here to learn more about the leather, advertised as Box on the Sotheby’s website. When I got it, I thought it seemed more like the Swift bags I have. And I guess it is actually Evercalf. I’m thrilled to have learned more and have been obsessing over this bag and leather for months.
Click to expand...
Congratulations! I hope you'll love it. I thought about buying this Plume bag too, but I already have a Plume 32 in this same color in Courchevel leather, so it seemed a little decadent! I would love to see your photos of it.
 
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