Please help identify leather, color and design

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As requested, this thread is now the official Help I.D. Hermes leather, color and design thread. Cheers!



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Hi All
Could you help identify this colour please? I don’t think it’s Anemone! It looks similar to Parme to me, but it seems more of a cool tone.

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cyclamen? First photo looks like cyclamen on Box calf leather , the second looks quite different and not sure what color this is …lilac ? Pharm ? But honestly these photos are not clear and quite possibly this is a custom aftermarket color job ? Or a super fake ? Can’t say .. but possibly.
 
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Hi All
Could you help identify this colour please? I don’t think it’s Anemone! It looks similar to Parme to me, but it seems more of a cool tone.

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The fact that the plastic appears to still be on the hardware makes me wonder how this could be Parme, which is quite an old color. That said, the images are either heavily filtered or in need of drastic color correction. Source would be helpful.
 
The fact that the plastic appears to still be on the hardware makes me wonder how this could be Parme, which is quite an old color. That said, the images are either heavily filtered or in need of drastic color correction. Source would be helpful.
This is what I thought too… but I do know there are those aftermarket stickers that people can buy. OT: Stickers on hardware is one of my biggest pet peeves.
 
A quick question..
Its regarding the Omnibus Bag.
Can anyone confirm who designed it?
I believe it was from the Margiela years I have just purchased one dated 2004 (its the early version with lock and keys).
I know MM left Hermes in 2003, does anyone know how long the bag was in production for?
Thanks in advance :smile:
The omnibus bag predates Margiela. I’m not sure who designed it (likely Dumas Sr. or Jr.), but I’ve seen these bags being produced at least a decade prior to Margiela’s tenure at the house. Margiela did, however, help revamp this design (as well as several others) by adding canvas and other materials to the bag. Production of this bag continued into JPG’s tenure, though I don’t recall having seen it since. Omnibus is a truly rare, underrated design in my opinion.
 
Stunning bag, though very quickly, I’m realising that I don’t agree with the description by the auction house. As quellefromage said, this leather does not look like CdC at all. It just doesn’t have that CdC “spine”, and it honestly doesn’t look like any chèvre leather I know of (Mangalore, Mysore, Marocain, CdC, Jahnsi…). On top of this, this leather does not really resemble any of the ones I know to have unfoiled heat stamps. It’s definitely not a verso, as this is not the way a verso bag looks (verso specifically denotes a bag that is internally one colour and externally a different colour).

A few options:
  1. It’s a really odd vert olive barenia bag. Barenia would make some sense given the heat stamp, however a lot of important details are not consitent with barenia leather.
  2. It’s a really odd vert olive swift bag (I say “odd” because I’ve never seen swift stamped this way, and the grain is a bit perplexing). I’ve seen swift and chevre confused on resale sites at least a dozen times, so this could very well be the case. This leather grain seems consistent with a couple well-loved/older swift bags I’ve seen. In this case, I think the colours would be vert olive, as you mentioned, and soleil. Both of these colours were available for swift leather around this time.
  3. It’s something completely different. Maybe two leathers? Maybe some very obscure leather? Who knows?
Hermès is full of surprises, so I wouldn’t really be shocked at the possibility of anything. I’d be very interested to see if @bababebi can make some sense of this!

ETA: I think I found some of the photos of this auction online, and now I'm even more confused lol. Still don't think it's chevre.

Looks nothing like Swift (Gulliver)

Tadelakt with a blind-stamp?

This is Brique 1994 (photo Chiswick Auctions)

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Looks nothing like Swift (Gulliver)

Tadelakt with a blind-stamp?

This is Brique 1994 (photo Chiswick Auctions)

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It can’t be Tadelakt due to the grain pattern. Tadelakt would look a lot more like Chamonix or Box, but less striated. Here are a couple extra photos I found from the original auction site. The first two pictures are of the exterior. You can really see the nuanced grain of Swift in the second picture on the front flap. The third picture is of the interior. The leather above the zipper’s teeth and on the zipper pull are swift. I know the original pictures may be a little unclear, so hopefully these ones make it easier to see the details:

swift sangles and exterior.jpgswift repainted soleil exterior.jpgswift soleil interior.jpg

ETA: the Brique bag is Box, not Tadelakt-- Tadelakt was introduced in '07, as far as I know
 
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Looks nothing like Swift (Gulliver)

Tadelakt with a blind-stamp?

This is Brique 1994 (photo Chiswick Auctions)

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It can’t be Tadelakt due to the grain pattern. Tadelakt would look a lot more like Chamonix or Box, but less striated. Here are a couple extra photos I found from the original auction site. The first two pictures are of the exterior. You can really see the nuanced grain of Swift in the second picture on the front flap. The third picture is of the interior. The leather above the zipper’s teeth and on the zipper pull are swift. I know the original pictures may be a little unclear, so hopefully these ones make it easier to see the details:

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ETA: the Brique bag is Box, not Tadelakt-- Tadelakt was introduced in '07, as far as I know
I am inclined to accept @bababebi 's verdict that it's recolored Swift. Texture looks more like Swift than anything else. Recoloring often messes up texture.

Tadelakt is smoother, less shiny than Box but more sheen than this and with more variation.
 
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The omnibus bag predates Margiela. I’m not sure who designed it (likely Dumas Sr. or Jr.), but I’ve seen these bags being produced at least a decade prior to Margiela’s tenure at the house. Margiela did, however, help revamp this design (as well as several others) by adding canvas and other materials to the bag. Production of this bag continued into JPG’s tenure, though I don’t recall having seen it since. Omnibus is a truly rare, underrated design in my opinion.
@r luvs h Thank you so much for this valuable information.
The one I have just purchased is Crinoline and Barenia which makes me think it must have been one of the MM tweaks.
I'll post a photo when I pick it up next week :smile:
 
It can’t be Tadelakt due to the grain pattern. Tadelakt would look a lot more like Chamonix or Box, but less striated. Here are a couple extra photos I found from the original auction site. The first two pictures are of the exterior. You can really see the nuanced grain of Swift in the second picture on the front flap. The third picture is of the interior. The leather above the zipper’s teeth and on the zipper pull are swift. I know the original pictures may be a little unclear, so hopefully these ones make it easier to see the details:

View attachment 5656712View attachment 5656713View attachment 5656714

ETA: the Brique bag is Box, not Tadelakt-- Tadelakt was introduced in '07, as far as I know

Kelly could def be Box, I was just going by a professional auction description.

Swift was introduced around '08, I bought one of the first bags made Swift (according to my SA, 2008) rather than the rested Gulliver. Fits with your bag too. Certainly, mine has a foiled stamp. Perhaps it's recoloured and the finish is unnaturally shiny. My Swift is now 14 years old, darker colour (that usually would shows sheen and shine more obviously) plenty of use and not that shiny.

Screenshot 2022-11-20 at 16.48.59.png
 
I am inclined to accept @bababebi 's verdict that it's recolored Swift. Texture looks more like Swift than anything else. Recoloring often messes up texture.

Tadelakt is smoother, less shiny than Box but more sheen than this and with more variation.

For sure it could be recoloured. I didn't read about that before posting, I went from the r luvs h's post. That would undoubtedly change the overall finish and makes sense re stamp.

Tadelakt can often be mistaken for Box, H SA's used to offer it every time I asked for Box but I found it softer (Kelly Cut) although here @Notorious Pink compares it to Swift (and hope she doesn't mind me posting her bag). Obviously, they're all fairly smooth leathers, as Sikkim (which a also have). Obviously, all different 'hand' but we only have pics.


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For sure it could be recoloured. I didn't read about that before posting, I went from the r luvs h's post. That would undoubtedly change the overall finish and makes sense re stamp.

Tadelakt can often be mistaken for Box, H SA's used to offer it every time I asked for Box but I found it softer (Kelly Cut) although here @Notorious Pink compares it to Swift (and hope she doesn't mind me posting her bag). Obviously, they're all fairly smooth leathers, as Sikkim (which a also have). Obviously, all different 'hand' but we only have pics.


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Yep! My Tadelakt Kelly was sold to me as Box. It actually looks more like Barenia as it has the Tadelakt striations (which were encouraged in the Fauve color for this exact reason, since Barenia was getting more and more difficult to create around that time). Tadelakt is gorgeous!!
 
@r luvs h Thank you so much for this valuable information.
The one I have just purchased is Crinoline and Barenia which makes me think it must have been one of the MM tweaks.
I'll post a photo when I pick it up next week :smile:

Cheers:flowers: Crinoline is definitely a Margiela-ism; can’t wait to see your bag!:biggrin:
 
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