Men's Winter 23 Show

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Regarding those tall necks, those look a lot better on the runway and in photos than they do in real life. There's a Vogue sewing pattern that has a tall neckline (very similar to the first one shown in this thread and shown again below). I made it but to wear it, looks rather awkward irl because you aren't just standing still or even walking with your head pointed straight forward all the time. Try to look down at your phone or the kitchen counter, or anything like that, and your chin disappears into the neck.

I do think this neckline would look better on a man or on a woman with a smaller chest, than it did on me however, because the fullness of the neck will get slimmer as it goes down, rather than have to bulge out over a larger chest. The proportions are better overall I think. Not that that would help the disappearing chin problem - lol.

And trying to look good while eating with these necklines... forget it! You have to carefully navigate your fork over the several inches of garment neckline that is sticking out and hope that you don't accidentally bump it and have food spill down into it. It results in rather unnatural eating movements, and again, turns something from really cool into really awkward.

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Regarding those tall necks, those look a lot better on the runway and in photos than they do in real life. There's a Vogue sewing pattern that has a tall neckline (very similar to the first one shown in this thread and shown again below). I made it but to wear it, looks rather awkward irl because you aren't just standing still or even walking with your head pointed straight forward all the time. Try to look down at your phone or the kitchen counter, or anything like that, and your chin disappears into the neck.

I do think this neckline would look better on a man or on a woman with a smaller chest, than it did on me however, because the fullness of the neck will get slimmer as it goes down, rather than have to bulge out over a larger chest. The proportions are better overall I think. Not that that would help the disappearing chin problem - lol.

And trying to look good while eating with these necklines... forget it! You have to carefully navigate your fork over the several inches of garment neckline that is sticking out and hope that you don't accidentally bump it and have food spill down into it. It results in rather unnatural eating movements, and again, turns something from really cool into really awkward.

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it reminded me so much of Hövding's first design:

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Hövding is an airbag bike helmet :)
 
Detail photos (un-retouched, sadly) are now available behind paywall. A few excerpts:
Lizard Kelly Depeches
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Kelly Messenger
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New HAC 50 (unsure of name yet) in croc
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And in classic skins
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Classic HAC 50
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Plume Fourre Tout in Box (I feel this bag has been dragged out to every runway in the last 5 years!)
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Butler or Swift perhaps?
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The Kelly messenger looks like Swift? Although I'd love it in Box, the swift might actually make production! :lol:
 
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These are my favourites...
Cream jumper with details... I like that it is still masculine with all the flowers on it.
Scarf with the chain layered - but I prefer it to be looser. Just like all fashion, everything is layer-upon-layer-upon-layer and sadly here in Oz, we simply CAN'T layer without overheating in a few minutes.... on the rare chilly night - you are not outside long enough to keep layered! Come on!!!! Who will wear five layers of silk and wool anyway?

But come on - the shoes are foul. If they look awful on the models I guarantee that they will look disgusting on me. Come on, looks like there was a sale at an army disposal shop. Poor form Hermes!!!

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it's always the same. boring and safe marketed as "timeless" and "classic".

I can't believe they let an epsom bag be on the runway.

There is a way of doing timeless and classic without making it safe or boring. I still have and wear Margiela pieces (men and women). The problem is CDs and designers are given their orders from on-high, no designer wants to deviate from predicted trends.

So much is offered in Epsom these days I'm not surprised. It's how normalisation works: Upsell the item that has the highest mark-up. Putting it on the catwalk so they can say "it's a runway piece/leather" will elevate a basic leather (I use the word 'basic' advisedly).
 
it's always the same. boring and safe marketed as "timeless" and "classic".

I can't believe they let an epsom bag be on the runway.
I totally agree with you. I bought a couple of RTW from last seasons and I don't feel that I want to buy anything from this collection since nothing feels new to me.

I know that I will be torched for this but I hate Epsom on bags big or small.
 
There is a way of doing timeless and classic without making it safe or boring. I still have and wear Margiela pieces (men and women). The problem is CDs and designers are given their orders from on-high, no designer wants to deviate from predicted trends.

So much is offered in Epsom these days I'm not surprised. It's how normalisation works: Upsell the item that has the highest mark-up. Putting it on the catwalk so they can say "it's a runway piece/leather" will elevate a basic leather (I use the word 'basic' advisedly).
I am sure one of the 'predicted trends' would have been clumpy footwear;
there was a lot of it on the catwalks this time.
 
It was fine but nothing spectacular. None of the leather pants seemed to be tailored very nicely at all. I do not think every look needed a chunky shoe— a bit too Herman Munster for my taste. I would have liked to see more boots and proper winter shoes. I also wish we could have seen the matte croc/gator crossbody from look 23 better, though I did like that camel-coloured coat.

The new HAC was the saving grace (featured in looks 12 and 27 with the external pouches). Also, the HAC from look 8 was nice; I wonder if the colour is Rouge Sellier or if it was just a brown shade? The all-black outfit from look 18 was nice, and I liked the shearling coat. There was some decent knitwear too from look 32 (slightly reminiscent of Karl's last Chanel collection) and look 35 (greyish green with a pattern used for silks). It was certainly better than some of the women’s shows, as others have mentioned.


Mentioned:
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Look 23 - Croc/gator crossbody and camel coat

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Look 27 - HAC full-leather with external pockets

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Look 8 - HAC in reddish brown/brownish red

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Look 18 - All-black with shearling coat

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Look 32 - Cream/white patterned jumper (reminiscent of Chanel)

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Look 35 - Patterned jumper

(Source: All pictures from Hermès website.)
Maybe the oversized pants, oversized shoes, and oversized bags with multiple openings is the new "thing". LV's FW23 show had the same thing

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