Men's Winter 23 Show

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#19
papertiger said:
Love the demi- 'Fair Isle' sweater (a study in stitching?)

Don't mind the extra pocket on the HAC. Not sure about the extra sangles and turncocks on the pocket though.

Brown could be Chocolate, I love chocolate (the colour and the stuff)
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Yes! “Demi-Fair Isle” is the perfect description, and it is not something I have really seen from any brand before. I almost wish they had done a few more knitwear pieces in the same design, but alas…

I do see how those extra HAC sangles could be bothersome, and I wonder what and how much would fit in the external pockets anyway— are they actually effective pockets or are they more of an aesthetic element? We shall see.
 
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#21
r luvs h said:
It was fine but nothing spectacular. None of the leather pants seemed to be tailored very nicely at all. I do not think every look needed a chunky shoe— a bit too Herman Munster for my taste. I would have liked to see more boots and proper winter shoes. I also wish we could have seen the matte croc/gator crossbody from look 23 better, though I did like that camel-coloured coat.

The new HAC was the saving grace (featured in looks 12 and 27 with the external pouches). Also, the HAC from look 8 was nice; I wonder if the colour is Rouge Sellier or if it was just a brown shade? The all-black outfit from look 18 was nice, and I liked the shearling coat. There was some decent knitwear too from look 32 (slightly reminiscent of Karl's last Chanel collection) and look 35 (greyish green with a pattern used for silks). It was certainly better than some of the women’s shows, as others have mentioned.


Mentioned:
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Look 23 - Croc/gator crossbody and camel coat

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Look 27 - HAC full-leather with external pockets

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Look 8 - HAC in reddish brown/brownish red

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Look 18 - All-black with shearling coat

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Look 32 - Cream/white patterned jumper (reminiscent of Chanel)

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Look 35 - Patterned jumper

(Source: All pictures from Hermès website.)
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Omg I died at Herman Munster…
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#22
I haven't yet focused on the details, and can't parse them nearly as well as many of you mavens, but for 99% of the looks -- if I saw that guy on the street my head would be turning hard! I think that's the casually elegant, modern, insouciant look that Hermes tries to achieve with the women's collections but IMO often ends up looking like it's trying way too hard, especially recently.
 
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#23
r luvs h said:
Yes! “Demi-Fair Isle” is the perfect description, and it is not something I have really seen from any brand before. I almost wish they had done a few more knitwear pieces in the same design, but alas…

I do see how those extra HAC sangles could be bothersome, and I wonder what and how much would fit in the external pockets anyway— are they actually effective pockets or are they more of an aesthetic element? We shall see.
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I always thought the point of an outside pocket was quick and easy access (e.g Web 1923) a ticket, a phone etc.
 
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#24
papertiger said:
I always thought the point of an outside pocket was quick and easy access (e.g Web 1923) a ticket, a phone etc.
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There is alway going to be a tussle between aesthetics and security when additions to a classic design are made for that kind of purpose. The Steve variants always kept the classic style and provide less and more facilities. I have to admit to subscribing to the Miesian 'less is more' aesthetic.
Sticking an additional compartment on the front of an HAC, brought with it of an appropriate closure method and the Kelly Sangle/turnlock that I thought was used, does seem aesthetically the correct choice. Adding a further little compartment that looks as if it came from a biker jacket could be one step too far.
 
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#28
WhiteBus said:
There is alway going to be a tussle between aesthetics and security when additions to a classic design are made for that kind of purpose. The Steve variants always kept the classic style and provide less and more facilities. I have to admit to subscribing to the Miesian 'less is more' aesthetic.
Sticking an additional compartment on the front of an HAC, brought with it of an appropriate closure method and the Kelly Sangle/turnlock that I thought was used, does seem aesthetically the correct choice. Adding a further little compartment that looks as if it came from a biker jacket could be one step too far.
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To be honest I think Hermès is awful at balancing practicality and classic design elements. Perhaps because the design elements are so strong that any addition or change easily make them awkward (in my opinion)... I have wondered why Hermes wouldn't just put out a square camera bag with a zipper on top with an adjustable strap that makes it both shoulder and cross-body friendly, and no asymmetry, weird angles, no volume etc. lke virtually every other brand. Especially when they have in the past. That being said, I love the new kelly shoulder bag iteration and would probably just carry it open. There shouldn't be any structural issues as the straps are attached on the sides of the bag. If it turns out to be as popular as the former kelly a depeche, it should be easy to get, it was lingering on H sites for ages.
 
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#29
FreddieMac said:
Detail photos (un-retouched, sadly) are now available behind paywall. A few excerpts:
Lizard Kelly Depeches
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Kelly Messenger
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New HAC 50 (unsure of name yet) in croc
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And in classic skins
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Classic HAC 50
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Plume Fourre Tout in Box (I feel this bag has been dragged out to every runway in the last 5 years!)
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Butler or Swift perhaps?
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they keep on making the Plume 45 ones, instead of the 40 which in my opinion has better proportions.
 
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#30
Liberté said:
To be honest I think Hermès is awful at balancing practicality and classic design elements. Perhaps because the design elements are so strong that any addition or change easily make them awkward (in my opinion)... I have wondered why Hermes wouldn't just put out a square camera bag with a zipper on top with an adjustable strap that makes it both shoulder and cross-body friendly, and no asymmetry, weird angles, no volume etc. lke virtually every other brand. Especially when they have in the past. That being said, I love the new kelly shoulder bag iteration and would probably just carry it open. There shouldn't be any structural issues as the straps are attached on the sides of the bag. If it turns out to be as popular as the former kelly a depeche, it should be easy to get, it was lingering on H sites for ages.
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Whilst I don't personally find it very exciting, they do offer the Flash Messenger, which is about as classic a camera bag as I expect H could ever make these days!
flash-messenger-28-relief-bag--078623CKAA-worn-1-0-0-1000-1000_b-3837442455.jpeg
 
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