LV looks to tap Pharrell Williams

[ultravisitor]

Gucci gets an actual designer [Sabato de Sarno] as Creative Director and then there's LV who get's a Hollywood A-lister as Creative Director.

Exactly--yet people in this thread are justifying it as a good choice. But maybe it is.

The Pharrell choice is good in that it brings a kind of cachet to the brand with a certain audience they're trying to capture. It's purely about his name. There are plenty of actual trained and educated designers they could have chosen who would have made sense as a continuation after Virgil Abloh's collections, but they don't have his name. And it's his name that will be more attractive to the audience the label is trying to capture.

If they had gone with another person, such as Grace Wales Bonner (and no, I'm not saying she necessarily should have gotten the job), a lot of people would just think of Louis Vuitton as "Louis Vuitton...and whoever it is that's designing over there right now." But Pharrell's name brings a lot more star power that will make people think "omg it's Louis Vuitton AND Pharrell Williams!!!"

Combine that with the fact that there are people who will buy any ugly thing just because it's Louis Vuitton, and Louis Vuitton will clearly make lots and lots of money.

I understand the choice as a pure business decision. I'm just disappointed that Louis Vuitton is a house and a brand whose choice wasn't driven at least a bit more by an appreciation for the art of design.

Why should anybody educate and train themselves and dedicate their lives to study and practice in a particular field if someone else can come in and be the boss just because they're more famous?

But hey, as someone else said: "Well, other fashion houses do it..."

 

[daisy913]

Honestly getting the feeling that there is some gatekeeping going on in the comments…

You don’t need to be “trained” to have good artistic or creative visions. As someone who went to school for art and now works professionally in it, in my experience, it’s those who lack “proper” training that tend to come up with radical ideas that can be scary and exciting. That doesn’t mean that every self-taught creative will be great, it just means that they are less likely to be held back by what they know and do not know.

Education is valuable at the technique-level, meaning it’s a good way to learn how to do and how not to do stuff. Schooling and training teaches you rules, but to make progress in art and creativity, rules have to be bent and broken.

The most crippling thing for any creative can be to break away from what has been ingrained in us as technically and aesthetically “wrong.” However, every artist and designer we know today was considered radical, good or bad, in their own time.

In choosing Pharrell, LV is making it clear that they are looking to the future. They are betting that he can continue the brand’s growth, in conjunction with the culture, art, and design of today. It also really cements the question of “what is a creative director” and “how does one obtain that title?”

If you ask me, Pharrell makes sense, given where contemporary aesthetics are headed. His lack of formal training in fashion has nothing to do with his capacity to think and discern how he wants the LV men’s line to evolve under him.

But will Pharrell make “good” creative decisions? Only time can tell.

**

P.S. I think the vast majority of people would be genuinely surprised if they learned how uninvolved some of the “greatest” creatives today are. Some people are just there to sign their names.

 

[bagsamplified]

Honestly getting the feeling that there is some gatekeeping going on in the comments…

You don’t need to be “trained” to have good artistic or creative visions. As someone who went to school for art and now works professionally in it, in my experience, it’s those who lack “proper” training that tend to come up with radical ideas that can be scary and exciting. That doesn’t mean that every self-taught creative will be great, it just means that they are less likely to be held back by what they know and do not know.

Education is valuable at the technique-level, meaning it’s a good way to learn how to do and how not to do stuff. Schooling and training teaches you rules, but to make progress in art and creativity, rules have to be bent and broken.

The most crippling thing for any creative can be to break away from what has been ingrained in us as technically and aesthetically “wrong.” However, every artist and designer we know today was considered radical, good or bad, in their own time.

In choosing Pharrell, LV is making it clear that they are looking to the future. They are betting that he can continue the brand’s growth, in conjunction with the culture, art, and design of today. It also really cements the question of “what is a creative director” and “how does one obtain that title?”

If you ask me, Pharrell makes sense, given where contemporary aesthetics are headed. His lack of formal training in fashion has nothing to do with his capacity to think and discern how he wants the LV men’s line to evolve under him.

But will Pharrell make “good” creative decisions? Only time can tell.

**

P.S. I think the vast majority of people would be genuinely surprised if they learned how uninvolved some of the “greatest” creatives today are. Some people are just there to sign their names.

You have great perspective, well said.

I probably come across as a Pharrell or even a Virgil superfan- I am not, I don't even like some of Pharrell's music including some of his biggest hits lol - but I've already said why I think, as an LV fan, the company made a great decision. And you've said it perfectly about the good reasons why LV may have looked beyond a traditionally trained fashion designer to head LV Menswear. Yes, I was thinking Grace Wales Bonner would have made a great fit for the role, too-
Pardon the pun! But Virgil started this whole dialogue about a non-traditionally trained, African American guy directing Men's at the house. And he made sure to carry over a lot of LV codes with each design, even if some were ugly lol (my perspective). To continue it with another non-traditionally trained, African American guy, you know, LV have read the room well, they can see many people miss his work at LV, why not continue the dialogue he started there, with another Director who can actually extend that conversation?

Yes, of course it is more buzzy hiring Pharrell than someone who only fashion people would know. But luxury is luxury, the price tags will still put off many people, Pharrell or not.

People who trained formally as fashion designers will still be able to be hired as Creative Directors at the biggest fashion houses and still be able to design for these houses, too. Just like Sabato did for Valentino before joining Gucci. People should not feel threatened about their future livelihoods as fashion designers, if that is what they're worried about (I have seen this stated as a concern). I can understand the unease about job security, even if i dont think it's relevant here. What I'm more ticked off about is the snobbery behind some of the comments about this appointment.

And it's not like any of us know Pharrell personally , me included give him a chance, guys!

 

[bagsamplified]

Yeah, but a lot of people didn't think much of Virgil Abloh, either.

Yes, I'm well aware. There was a ton of snobbery there, too.

 

[bagsamplified]

This sweater shows the Menswear team, check out all the varied design roles on the team. The Creative Director at a major fashion house doesn't do everything themselves.

I think it was FW22 where the Men's team actually walked onto the runway at the end. Virgil had passed by then, it was very moving.

Nicolas would have a similar team over at Women's.

I can hear people going "ha ha, Pharrell will need this with everyone's names on his first day at LV" - well yes, maybe he would, and wouldn't you want that too, starting out in a new job with a big team

https://us.louisvuitton.com/eng-us/products/studio-jacquard-crewneck-nvprod3760090v/1AAHFC

 

[Grand Maven]

This sweater shows the Menswear team, check out all the varied design roles on the team. The Creative Director at a major fashion house doesn't do everything themselves.

I think it was FW22 where the Men's team actually walked onto the runway at the end. Virgil had passed by then, it was very moving.

Nicolas would have a similar team over at Women's.

I can hear people going "ha ha, Pharrell will need this with everyone's names on his first day at LV" - well yes, maybe he would, and wouldn't you want that too, starting out in a new job with a big team

https://us.louisvuitton.com/eng-us/products/studio-jacquard-crewneck-nvprod3760090v/1AAHFC

I wouldn't buy that sweater even if I could.

 

[mrceral]

Honestly getting the feeling that there is some gatekeeping going on in the comments…

And then some.

 

[daisy913]

You have great perspective, well said.

I probably come across as a Pharrell or even a Virgil superfan- I am not, I don't even like some of Pharrell's music including some of his biggest hits lol - but I've already said why I think, as an LV fan, the company made a great decision. And you've said it perfectly about the good reasons why LV may have looked beyond a traditionally trained fashion designer to head LV Menswear. Yes, I was thinking Grace Wales Bonner would have made a great fit for the role, too-
Pardon the pun! But Virgil started this whole dialogue about a non-traditionally trained, African American guy directing Men's at the house. And he made sure to carry over a lot of LV codes with each design, even if some were ugly lol (my perspective). To continue it with another non-traditionally trained, African American guy, you know, LV have read the room well, they can see many people miss his work at LV, why not continue the dialogue he started there, with another Director who can actually extend that conversation?

Yes, of course it is more buzzy hiring Pharrell than someone who only fashion people would know. But luxury is luxury, the price tags will still put off many people, Pharrell or not.

People who trained formally as fashion designers will still be able to be hired as Creative Directors at the biggest fashion houses and still be able to design for these houses, too. Just like Sabato did for Valentino before joining Gucci. People should not feel threatened about their future livelihoods as fashion designers, if that is what they're worried about (I have seen this stated as a concern). I can understand the unease about job security, even if i dont think it's relevant here. What I'm more ticked off about is the snobbery behind some of the comments about this appointment.

And it's not like any of us know Pharrell personally , me included give him a chance, guys!

Most of my fashion friends (whether formally trained, or not) didn’t like Virgil’s decisions, because they saw most of it as being rip offs of other people’s work. However, some of the biggest names in contemporary art and design made and still make their money through appropriation art.

Always found it interesting how when Virgil riffed off of someone else, my fashion friends would be upset, but ask them about the LV x Koons collab, and they think the pieces are beautiful. In my field though, many of us would consider Koons as the biggest appropriator, worse than Virgil.

Virgil’s decisions, imo, just accurately reflected society’s current relationship with art, aesthetics, and branding.

Personally, I think Virgil brought a lot of “fun” into the brand that would have challenged the technical skill of their artisans, in a way that wasn’t really seen before with LV.

**

Don’t want to really get into it, but I used to work as an artist assistant, in a medium I never had formal training in. Having been told that I wasn’t “worth” my pay by other coworkers and my floor manager, despite my actual boss/artist being happy with me, I’ve come to this conclusion:

Anyone that is unhappy or feels threatened by an outsider needs to have a more honest reflection and assessment of their own skills, growth, and career path. I was not responsible for anyone else’s art career, or lack of. In the same way, Pharrell and LV’s decision is not responsible for every fashion designer’s career.

We can all agree that Pharrell’s name and recognition really helped him out, but it’s like you said, give him a chance. After all, talent and potential goes beyond any training or an individual’s name.

 

[Grand Maven]

Most of my fashion friends (whether formally trained, or not) didn’t like Virgil’s decisions, because they saw most of it as being rip offs of other people’s work. However, some of the biggest names in contemporary art and design made and still make their money through appropriation art.

Always found it interesting how when Virgil riffed off of someone else, my fashion friends would be upset, but ask them about the LV x Koons collab, and they think the pieces are beautiful. In my field though, many of us would consider Koons as the biggest appropriator, worse than Virgil.

Virgil’s decisions, imo, just accurately reflected society’s current relationship with art, aesthetics, and branding.

Personally, I think Virgil brought a lot of “fun” into the brand that would have challenged the technical skill of their artisans, in a way that wasn’t really seen before with LV.

**

Don’t want to really get into it, but I used to work as an artist assistant, in a medium I never had formal training in. Having been told that I wasn’t “worth” my pay by other coworkers and my floor manager, despite my actual boss/artist being happy with me, I’ve come to this conclusion:

Anyone that is unhappy or feels threatened by an outsider needs to have a more honest reflection and assessment of their own skills, growth, and career path. I was not responsible for anyone else’s art career, or lack of. In the same way, Pharrell and LV’s decision is not responsible for every fashion designer’s career.

We can all agree that Pharrell’s name and recognition really helped him out, but it’s like you said, give him a chance. After all, talent and potential goes beyond any training or an individual’s name.

Virgil did this, I think it's cool:

 

[Grande Latte]

Why should anybody educate and train themselves and dedicate their lives to study and practice in a particular field if someone else can come in and be the boss just because they're more famous?

But hey, as someone else said: "Well, other fashion houses do it..."

Totally. Why should education matter these days anymore. When we just end up being labors to someone with a big name. This world we live in is driven by egomaniacs and shameless promoters.

 

[BleuSaphir]

How groundbreaking…

 

[LuxePup]

Thing is that luxury brands are looking to social media for what is the next big thing in fashion and design, and it helps to have celebrities design, create and sell especially if they're aiming for a younger demographic. Streetwear is here to stay, whether you like it or not and im very excited to see what Pharrell does for the Mens line.

 

[Grand Maven]

Pharrell × Tiffany's sunglasses in 2022

What the Pharrell x Tiffany's sunglasses say about the state of cultural appropriation in fashion

Copied from a 17th century Mughal artefact that went on auction at Sotheby's last year, the sunglasses speak to a larger trend within the world of fashion which has historically turned a blind eye towards incidents of appropriating culture from marginalised groups

www.vogue.in

 

[EpiFanatic]

I’ve always liked Pharrell and I see him as a true creative. I’m interested to see where this goes. I don’t mind rule breakers in fashion. I’d rather risk going with someone who will produce some things I love and some things I hate than a lot of stuff that I’m just ho-hum about. And, Pharrell is 49 years old, just a little younger than me, a creative born in the early 70s. We’ve gone through the same eras and he has seen as much of the times as I have. That gives me hope.

 

[EpiFanatic]

Just saw this on Pharrell’s IG. A good sign that he was in touch with LV enough to appreciate a Murakami scarf, and pair it with a bomber. If his LV timeline starts with Murakami that works for me.