Hermes Advanced Think Tank (HATT)

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So true. I have also heard many clients hang around for the first QB and then vanish. H has always been a classic but it’s also really trendy now and a “hot” brand. It will always be classic but it won’t always be the hot brand and if it will become too over exposed for some of the existing classic long term or long term potential customer remains to be seen. I attend a lot of events where H used to be the dominant brand and those same people are wearing more under the radar brands now or under the radar H bags. It’s really noticeable.
For me, this isn’t a problem so long as it’s the mini bags that are hot. It’s immaterial to my appreciation for the classic values of H. Also, I think it depends where you live. My home city is large and has busy H stores, but I wouldn’t say that we’re saturated with B/K in the wild. Under the radar has always been perceived as more stylish here.
 
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Sorry, I don't want to chime-in too much on this thread but you raise an important point.

A 17 y o (Client Z) is very likely not going to have earned the money for a bag (nor been a loyal customer for long) so who is H thinking is the client here? The person wearing the bag, or the one buying the bag and long-term customer, many times (not all) it'll be a parent (Client X). The parent's name will be on the CC, it'll be under the CX's purchase history. The SA will know the 'real story' (and often noted as personal info) but the hard-info is - Client X is the client, and that's the info that goes back to Paris.
Definitely there are some 17 year olds with their own profiles and authorized cards (from their parents) and getting their own profile history. Of course the money is often provided by the parents. But - devil’s advocate again - does it, in practice, make a difference (to Hermes or even in general) that it is technically their parent’s money? (What about someone using their spouse’s funds?) I guess a better way to put it is…does it matter so much if those funds weren’t made by the person making the purchase, as long as the person has access to spend the funds?

I think that is a slightly different group than the other one, where someone young and just starting out is spending their own money, and is impossible for them to be a handbag client at this stage. So what could be the goal for Hermes there? To me then the logical conclusion would be that the goal is eventually, some of them will become someone who has funds to establish themselves as a bigger client. As long as H stays around, as long as the products quality don’t decline (fingers crossed), as long as the brand value and image stays strong, H would be an option for them then. (Aside: funny thing I’ve realized on RED, “the Hermes of ___” is nowadays a common term used to essentially mean “the most expensive / best of ____”, for example before H made their beauty lines I’ve seen other brands and products being called “the Hermes of makeup”. It’s gotten to the point where “Hermes” is used as a part of the lexicon on social media, by influencers and marketing…)

Of course it will take time for these younger folks to get there, and of course not all will even be able to, but why not sprinkle some more affordable things such as a lipstick or a pair of shoes to keep your name in their mind for now? And is this fundamentally different than say, a newly graduated young woman who walked into an Hermes store for the first time, bought one scarf to enjoy, but would not go back into an Hermes store until many, many years later when she feels comfortable with spending more on other things (yes perhaps this is a personal anecdote here ;) ).
 
So true. I have also heard many clients hang around for the first QB and then vanish. H has always been a classic but it’s also really trendy now and a “hot” brand. It will always be classic but it won’t always be the hot brand and if it will become too over exposed for some of the existing classic long term or long term potential customer remains to be seen. I attend a lot of events where H used to be the dominant brand and those same people are wearing more under the radar brands now or under the radar H bags. It’s really noticeable.

I also have noticed the same. But my theory is that as long as they are still brand name luxury (as opposed to true custom bespoke etc) other brands will go through the same cycle eventually.

The most recent example I see is the Row suddenly became a “hot” brand for some reason as they were pushed endlessly as the new “subtle, low key, under the radar, good quality” brand (the term that’s been used is “old-money style” aka “quiet luxury” which…no just ugh no please, that is NOT a thing! But if you hang around on social media…couldn’t escape. Btw they did give that same label to Hermes as well).
 
Yes; do you mean H is selling to Client Z in terms of marketing strategy when in fact it’s Client X they should be selling to? Or do you mean that it doesn’t make a difference if there is nothing much beyond entry level for Client Z because they are not the real purchaser (yet)? I suppose it makes me think that Client X is probably not reached by H marketing anyway. He/she already has the relationship and has reached a stage of life where he/she is not easily swayed by such things. My half-baked theory is that advertisers stop selling to older women not so much because of the invisibility factor but because they know the superficial “sell” doesn’t work on them any more. :biggrin:

What I'm saying, is that although Client Z is the taste-maker, Client X is the gatekeeper. If CX doesn't approve of the purchase, it isn't going to happen. I think a lot of CZ choices happen because CX approves. Under 18s can use their parent's CCs if pre-authorised, but it's my understanding that it's the name on the card that goes on the purchase history. Marketing therefore takes into account 1. H is the 'cool' choice (for CZ) 2. H is the safe choice (for CX).

Hermes aims it's marketing to different market segmentations depending on the line and price-point, The more unknown (non-consumers and potential consumers) usually the more fantasy-based. Existing customers get experiential marketing (even offering a coffee to a customer is marketing) displaying bags (that can/cant be bought) and exclusive events etc.
 
May I ask what has changed since H took control of the boutique? The reason I am asking is that our home boutique is rumored to be under H control starting next year.

In order for this thread to work, we have to stick to the broader picture. We already have several threads in the H Shopping sub on franchises and/or Stockholm store if you want to post about it.

 
My husband and I been H customers for about 20+ years. I started buying clothes - that classic piece you spend a ton of money on that will stand the test of time. I liken it to a coat from Loro Piana. Since that time I have continued to buy clothes, scarves, belts, shoes, some jewelry, handbags, wallets, and totes, as well as furniture and lighting. Overall we shop very limited brands having tried many others where we found the quality lacking - clothes falling apart with buttons or stitching getting loose to overall wear and tear of life not holding up or the style goes out with the season. This results in either using the items less or simply consigning them in the hopes it gets a second life with someone else who loves it. I buy things to use, to wear, basically to enjoy, not to resell so buying quality, classic pieces matters to me.

During this time we have primarily worked with one SA, though we have had a couple leave some stores for various reasons - ensuring you know the store Assistant Director or Director is generally a good idea. We have shopped in the US, Europe, and Asia. In general we will find one SA at a store that we really like working with and contact them in advance when we travel to that location. Customer data within the US is shared, particularly the Bs and Ks, but they can't see purchases outside the US. When we go to a new location, we aren't there to buy a bag, we're there for all the other items and maybe a bag - near the end the SA will usually ask if we are interested in "something special" or they will offer to show us something "special". I have turned down bags worldwide with no impact - some in hindsight I should have bought but nothing that I miss. I have also bought or been offered multiple bags at the same or other stores so I'm not aware of a per year bag limit.

I honestly don't know if there is a specific spend amount to be offered a B or K; however, I think it has more to do with brand loyalty, the length of a relationship and appreciation of the house that matters. This won't be a popular opinion but I don't have any qualms with H telling people that they have nothing in stock even if they do especially those only interested in obtaining a bag because they think it's some statement piece. I truly love the brand, the quality, that they have classic pieces that stand the test of time vs a fad and maybe that does comes with some spend.
 
I loved reading this thread. I work in finance and strategy in the consumer / retail space and "covered" luxury retail brands in a past life (how I first learned about Hermes, actually). Across almost any given brand, the top ~5-10% of buyers typically contribute to ~40-50% of sales. This could be a smaller household % contributing to a higher sales % for luxury brands where spend can be enormous, but that's a general guideline. Heavy buyers are a goldmine, and the path to growth is either 1) to increase household penetration by gaining new households that do not currently purchase your brand, or 2) push purchase occasions and spend per occasion up for your buyers so that ultimately your medium and light users close the gap to the heavy users and continue to maintain loyalty (with repeat rate typically calculated as someone who makes multiple purchases within any 52Wk period and lapsed buyers being buyers who do not return in a 52Wk period).

The "Hermes Game" is pretty perfectly curated to accomplish goal #2, and as someone adjacent to the industry, I love that Hermes has perfected this craft. Let's take someone who is shopping Hermes with hopes of receiving a coveted bag. Having this concept of "pre-spend" allows Hermes to build a customer base that shops across categories, which is highly lucrative. Even if this consumer gets a bag, lapses, and stops shopping the brand completely, their spend as a lapsed user is still relatively high from an absolute dollar basis. The gamification aspect is also very on trend right now. I joke that shopping at Hermes is almost akin to gambling. Due to the scarcity factor, you can't fully control what you will be offered, which adds a bit of excitement. So a consumer gets a bag, enjoys the little adrenaline rush of getting offered something known to be scarce, and experiences the excitement of the initial unboxing, not fully knowing what they will get. Will they want another bag and continue playing this game? A pretty good chance that yes, this would be the case.

Or maybe I'm projecting :lol:

But the ideal consumer for any brand is one that is highly loyal and highly sticky (price inelastic and won't leak to other brands with a price increase), which ultimately boils down to someone who genuinely loves and connects to the brand. While a consumer doesn't need to be a heavy user to get bag offers, customer lifetime value is an important metric and if you're loyal throughout many many years, that's hugely important. So I agree that loyalty to the brand and length of relationship plays a larger role than a "pre-spend ratio" at any given moment.

As long as demand is greater than supply, there is little reason to cater to consumers that will potentially lapse. And as long as demand is greater than supply, helped by social media, gamification, and scarcity factor, this is a business model that will continue crushing it. I am kind of all for it.
 
I loved reading this thread. I work in finance and strategy in the consumer / retail space and "covered" luxury retail brands in a past life (how I first learned about Hermes, actually). Across almost any given brand, the top ~5-10% of buyers typically contribute to ~40-50% of sales. This could be a smaller household % contributing to a higher sales % for luxury brands where spend can be enormous, but that's a general guideline. Heavy buyers are a goldmine, and the path to growth is either 1) to increase household penetration by gaining new households that do not currently purchase your brand, or 2) push purchase occasions and spend per occasion up for your buyers so that ultimately your medium and light users close the gap to the heavy users and continue to maintain loyalty (with repeat rate typically calculated as someone who makes multiple purchases within any 52Wk period and lapsed buyers being buyers who do not return in a 52Wk period).

The "Hermes Game" is pretty perfectly curated to accomplish goal #2, and as someone adjacent to the industry, I love that Hermes has perfected this craft. Let's take someone who is shopping Hermes with hopes of receiving a coveted bag. Having this concept of "pre-spend" allows Hermes to build a customer base that shops across categories, which is highly lucrative. Even if this consumer gets a bag, lapses, and stops shopping the brand completely, their spend as a lapsed user is still relatively high from an absolute dollar basis. The gamification aspect is also very on trend right now. I joke that shopping at Hermes is almost akin to gambling. Due to the scarcity factor, you can't fully control what you will be offered, which adds a bit of excitement. So a consumer gets a bag, enjoys the little adrenaline rush of getting offered something known to be scarce, and experiences the excitement of the initial unboxing, not fully knowing what they will get. Will they want another bag and continue playing this game? A pretty good chance that yes, this would be the case.

Or maybe I'm projecting :lol:

But the ideal consumer for any brand is one that is highly loyal and highly sticky (price inelastic and won't leak to other brands with a price increase), which ultimately boils down to someone who genuinely loves and connects to the brand. While a consumer doesn't need to be a heavy user to get bag offers, customer lifetime value is an important metric and if you're loyal throughout many many years, that's hugely important. So I agree that loyalty to the brand and length of relationship plays a larger role than a "pre-spend ratio" at any given moment.

As long as demand is greater than supply, there is little reason to cater to consumers that will potentially lapse. And as long as demand is greater than supply, helped by social media, gamification, and scarcity factor, this is a business model that will continue crushing it. I am kind of all for it.
I will agree that the surprise of what you are offered is part of the fun - kind of like Christmas when one is unwrapping a gift. I'm particular to some of the H bags, but not all hence why I've turned down some bags or flat out said that I'm not interested in a particular style. Example: I have multiple Bs and Ks in various sizes, colors, leathers and skins, but have only one 2424, and one just recently acquired Picotin, and not interested in a Constance or Evelyn - for me personally I don't like the giant H on it (or anything else that H creates with a giant H like belt buckles). This is also part of the reason why I like H, while I appreciate the B and K doesn't have a logo and even if people who know know and even those that don't still know, it doesn't require a logo and their clothes are rarely logo'd (unlike brands like LV, Dior, etc).

I have a number of friends who have acquired bags through secondary which is a crazy amount of money. I will admit I have done this on 2 occasions for bags that I couldn't otherwise track down or that are no longe in rotation like the So Black. I think if someone wants a bag bad enough a method that provides that, albeit at really high prices, is a good one but it also enables the brand to continue on their current path, throttling the one time buyer.

In reality, shopping at H is akin to other high end shopping where relationships and long term customers are highly valued including their prior spend history with the brand - cars at certain levels, watches by specific manufacturers (both of which have limited releases of specific products to drive more interest and pricing), and art from top galleries. The game is the same, spend more over time and get the chance to make a "wishlist" or access to items before anyone else. All of them want to know you love and appreciate the brand but moreover that you aren't going to flip it at auction, secondary sites, etc to make a profit. Some watch manufacturers have been known to blacklist buyers for life if it was determined they flipped their watches.
 
I will agree that the surprise of what you are offered is part of the fun - kind of like Christmas when one is unwrapping a gift. I'm particular to some of the H bags, but not all hence why I've turned down some bags or flat out said that I'm not interested in a particular style. Example: I have multiple Bs and Ks in various sizes, colors, leathers and skins, but have only one 2424, and one just recently acquired Picotin, and not interested in a Constance or Evelyn - for me personally I don't like the giant H on it (or anything else that H creates with a giant H like belt buckles). This is also part of the reason why I like H, while I appreciate the B and K doesn't have a logo and even if people who know know and even those that don't still know, it doesn't require a logo and their clothes are rarely logo'd (unlike brands like LV, Dior, etc).

I have a number of friends who have acquired bags through secondary which is a crazy amount of money. I will admit I have done this on 2 occasions for bags that I couldn't otherwise track down or that are no longe in rotation like the So Black. I think if someone wants a bag bad enough a method that provides that, albeit at really high prices, is a good one but it also enables the brand to continue on their current path, throttling the one time buyer.

In reality, shopping at H is akin to other high end shopping where relationships and long term customers are highly valued including their prior spend history with the brand - cars at certain levels, watches by specific manufacturers (both of which have limited releases of specific products to drive more interest and pricing), and art from top galleries. The game is the same, spend more over time and get the chance to make a "wishlist" or access to items before anyone else. All of them want to know you love and appreciate the brand but moreover that you aren't going to flip it at auction, secondary sites, etc to make a profit. Some watch manufacturers have been known to blacklist buyers for life if it was determined they flipped their watches.

I like Hermes given the subtle branding and lack of loud logos as well. And completely agree that the resell market is good for the brand given the ability to weed out some of the one time buyers.

Rolex and Ferrari definitely come to mind as other brands that are similar in how they craft their strategies. Hermes is interesting given the broader span of categories a consumer can buy. The new makeup line at a lower price point is a great way to potentially just ever so slightly push medium and light buyers into new occasions and increase spending. I love Hermes for many reasons, their business strategy being one of them as well, hah.
 
I like Hermes given the subtle branding and lack of loud logos as well. And completely agree that the resell market is good for the brand given the ability to weed out some of the one time buyers.

Rolex and Ferrari definitely come to mind as other brands that are similar in how they craft their strategies. Hermes is interesting given the broader span of categories a consumer can buy. The new makeup line at a lower price point is a great way to potentially just ever so slightly push medium and light buyers into new occasions and increase spending. I love Hermes for many reasons, their selling strategy being one of them as well, hah.
Totally agree with Ferrari limiting their cars and will be interesting to see how Rolex goes given they are taking control of their secondary market by selling "previously loved" watches through their stores - I'm not a Rolex person but know their brand can set some new standards akin to Patek and others pulling in the brand to their own stores vs dealers cutting too many deals or AP opening their AP houses to set a different standard of "we have no stock, but come here, relax, have a drink and chat with us" kind of relationship building.

Hermes definitely has it nailed down with that aloof SA until they know you...then it becomes, what can we do for you :)
 
Yes; do you mean H is selling to Client Z in terms of marketing strategy when in fact it’s Client X they should be selling to? Or do you mean that it doesn’t make a difference if there is nothing much beyond entry level for Client Z because they are not the real purchaser (yet)? I suppose it makes me think that Client X is probably not reached by H marketing anyway. He/she already has the relationship and has reached a stage of life where he/she is not easily swayed by such things. My half-baked theory is that advertisers stop selling to older women not so much because of the invisibility factor but because they know the superficial “sell” doesn’t work on them any more. :biggrin:
As the older woman in this equation with plenty of Gen Z and Gen Alpha around - my theory (and personal soap box lecture that my students occasionally have to endure) is that they know very well how to manipulate the 'future' to haunt the present to buy all this stuff for them. But of course, it is really about investing in long-term customer loyalty - convert them young and keep them interested. Not sure if H is at this stage yet.

For the H game, I am not a real player in this - I buy either preloved or whatever I can get online but then again, I am not hunting for the quota bags. But this summer I walked into my local Hermes while on vacation back home and came in thinking I will get something or nothing but a bag isn't really on my list. Found a silk and ear cuff, and really got along with the SA, so I asked her about stuff I might like. She found me a H constance wallet togo that wasn't picked up - no real buying history at all. She told me, always ask. Not matter the game, in the end, they are a business with a clever sales strategy. I mean it takes years, actually decades, to build up this kind of momentum - and just a hype won't back it up - you have to come up with the goods (i.e. a really well made bag). Personally, in my opinion, they do. The resin to seal the edges is so well done (details like this set quality apart) - I haven't found any other brand yet to deliver on that. Leathers are great with many but the detail in execution - for me, this justifies what they ask for. And their strategy is genius: instead of pushing marketing, they push sales. Very effective and a lot less flashy.
 
Thanks so much for sharing a perspective from Europe! Out of curiosity, what happens if you put in a wish, only to turn down the offer when it comes in (e.g., financial situation changed)? Does that damage your chances of having a future wish fulfilled? Or maybe it’s unheard of in Europe to decline an offer once you’ve made a wish?

As you know, there is a lot of emphasis here in the U.S. on the SA-customer relationship, and customers are often concerned with turning down an offer that doesn’t quite align with their interests because they fear another offer just won’t come. But maybe this does not hold true elsewhere?
I'm in the US. I turn down bag offers all the time. I think it actually helps your cause. If you come across as someone who loves the brand, but can only afford a new bag every view years, so you have to wait for the "right" one to come along, you're more likely to get exactly what you want. I am by no means a "big spender" at Hermès, but I'm consistent, and make it clear I only buy want I will use.
 
Regarding how H still managed to increase their revenue and profits over last 1-2 quarters even other luxury houses are showing signs of softness in customer spending, I would like to offer my two cents based on some (limited) datapoints that I experienced/heard or observed from TPF here.
Besides H is cultivating many new relationships with new clients...in recent quarters (esp. In Q1/Q2 2023), I have been hearing H customers who have been with H-houses for several years & with consistent good spends, being offered the (rarer) exotic pieces or Limited edition pieces. I recall these items started coming in waves since Mar 2023 or so... These items are generally not expected or on the wishlists of the clients, but H customers would likely accept because they know these items are rare or are considered desirable by H enthusiasts/collectors. In a way, H is pushing the limited edition/rare pricy items to the long-time customers, and afterwards, these H customers would be typically expected to increase their other spendings as a means to "thank" H for offering the limited edition pieces. This was at least my personal experience, which I notice I had suddenly increased my spending at H by two-folds within a short period of time even it was not planned from my end. I think the more H does this 'favor" to their clients, the more it likely to contribute/increase their business bottom-line.
I think that happened to me recently. I was offered a Black box Birkin 30 sellier this year. I had made it known I was in the market for a new quota bag (I had bought my last Kelly 3 years previously), and mentioned I loved box. Got the call and was offered the box Birkin. It was over my budget, but I splurged because it was such a rare and beautiful treat.
 
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