Hedi Slimane at Gucci?

Hedi at Gucci? For Good or bad?


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Honestly I wasn't a fan of the previous director at Gucci and looking forward to something where there is a lot more experimental designs and less conservative ho hum silhouettes. I would like to see someone much younger and very cutting edge at Gucci. And not too mawkish and over romantic.
 
I just saw the AW25 catwalk (anyone else?)

The entire design team came out at the end.

Thoughts:

Original composition music for orchestra
Distanced themselves from the dark red with > dark green
Limited amount of RTW pieces (man/women models had to go around 4 times)
Spring colours for Autumn (strong lavender, chartreuse, bubblegum pink)
For women - lots of lace
For men - lots of monochrome suiting and holding holdalls in-hand by side handles or without strap.
Velvet
Suede
Patent leather(?)

Unifying points:
Pointed toe shoes / mules 'V' vamp
Luxe fabrics
'D' ring horse-bit necklaces and bags
Eggbut (snaffle) horse-bits everywhere else
90s minimalism
SHINE + something
Mixed luxe fabrics
Fake fur made to look classic (as in real)

What I liked:
Wearable styling
Colours
90s inspired beading
Shoes and bags
Suede and other luxe fabrics in vivid colours

Am I missing Sabato? Not yet.
Well actually laces and pastel colors were heavily used by Sabato, and his creations were quite wearable (ok, maybe not those platform shoes). Surely much more everyday wearable than Michele.
IMO people just wanted Sabato out because couldn’t forgive that he came after Michele, which is quite idolatrized.
People all over IG are commenting that now Michele has Guccified Valentino, not understanding that Gucci under AM was just AM, not Gucci.
 
Well actually laces and pastel colors were heavily used by Sabato, and his creations were quite wearable (ok, maybe not those platform shoes). Surely much more everyday wearable than Michele.
IMO people just wanted Sabato out because couldn’t forgive that he came after Michele, which is quite idolatrized.
People all over IG are commenting that now Michele has Guccified Valentino, not understanding that Gucci under AM was just AM, not Gucci.

I agree with most of what you say, AM seemed to overstay his welcome. People forget he was let go because things were not selling as well anymore. Michele was trying to rein it in, in later years. The Disney collabs were NOT helping (loads of it in the outlets). The DIY and later incarnations of MTO and customisation never really got going because they changed the process continually. One minute I was told to pay half up front, then in full. Felt like a cash grab so I cancelled my entire order and bought more Saint Laurent instead.

Last year, I bought RTW, shoes and jewellery under SdS as CD, I have a feeling they were in the pipeline from earlier apart from my new shoes. That's the thing, there's no telling, because things are always in a process. I would have loved the dark red shorts but they sold out. Same the lovely black patent Jackie with red leather interior, why was it only made in Small and not Medium? They also put the price of everything up and up and up (also started under AM). They did that because of the slowing of sales (less money) so they needed bigger mark-ups (to make-up the shortfall for annual returns). Not either AM or SdS fault.

I also agree on AM. People have very short memories. They also seem to think what 'experts' tell them to think. His style is totally his style.It's was like Camden Market on acid. I think he started well, but then I'm sure most of these products were already processed from when Frida was still in charge. I bought lots of things under AM, but basically Gucci from those years looked like my (existing) vintage wardrobe. Under Frida I was buying pieces to make by wardrobe look more contemporary/smart. From 2016 - 2021 I also didn't buy a single bag from Gucci because they were over-busy and/or lined with microfibre. It's only when the reissues of the Horsebit 1955, "Blondie' and BTH 1947 came out (all leather lined) that I bought again.
 
I also agree on AM. People have very short memories. They also seem to think what 'experts' tell them to think. His style is totally his style.It's was like Camden Market on acid. I think he started well, but then I'm sure most of these products were already processed from when Frida was still in charge. I bought lots of things under AM, but basically Gucci from those years looked like my (existing) vintage wardrobe. Under Frida I was buying pieces to make by wardrobe look more contemporary/smart. From 2016 - 2021 I also didn't buy a single bag from Gucci because they were over-busy and/or lined with microfibre. It's only when the reissues of the Horsebit 1955, "Blondie' and BTH 1947 came out (all leather lined) that I bought again.
I liked and still like the Dionysus, got a super mini in monogram jeans, but don’t like the super busy/embroidered versions. I was shown a natural leather version that I loved but price was outrageous 😅 And yes, I also liked the reissues, but a new model would’ve been lovely to see too.
Michele vision is way too rooted in Italy’s 70’s-early 80’s, I don’t know if it’s because we’re both Italian so it strikes me particularly (the color combo, the material) but it really is too much - don’t get me wrong, I do like some hints at past times and it was refreshing at first, but sometimes looking at his works you almost think you’re opening your rich aunt’s wardrobe, and can even smell moth balls.
One could argue: aren’t Dolce & Gabbana heavy on Italian stereotypes? Yes, but they try to diversify their aesthetic - sometimes it’s central Sicily, sometimes it’s posh Milan, sometimes is Bizantyne influence, sometimes it’s baroque. And a plus: Dolce & Gabbana are tailors, something many creative directors are lacking nowadays.
 
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I liked and still like the Dionysus, got a super mini in monogram jeans, but don’t like the super busy/embroidered versions. I was shown a natural leather version that I loved but price was outrageous 😅 And yes, I also liked the reissues, but a new model would’ve been lovely to see too.
Michele vision is way too rooted in Italy’s 70’s-early 80’s, I don’t know if it’s because we’re both Italian so it strikes me particularly (the color combo, the material) but it really is too much - don’t get me wrong, I do like some hints at past times and it was refreshing at first, but sometimes looking at his works you almost think you’re opening your rich aunt’s wardrobe, and can even smell moth balls.
One could argue: aren’t Dolce & Gabbana heavy on Italian stereotypes? Yes, but they try to diversify their aesthetic - sometimes it’s central Sicily, sometimes it’s posh Milan, sometimes is Bizantyne influence, sometimes it’s baroque. And a plus: Dolce & Gabbana are tailors, something many creative directors are lacking nowadays.


I am not Italian, but my culture typically goes for dramatic looks. I don't buy into that, but I am not ashamed of my heritage. You should meet my aunties!!!! :D I am also heavily influenced by the 'rock 'n' roll years' haute style 60-70s-80s-90s. I also appreciated the seasonless styles of AM, but I hated that I couldn't tell one season from the next from the next. I don't just want more of the same all the times. Sometimes Frida was boho chic (e.g. AW2008) and sometimes super glam (AW11) but broken-up, pieces could still be worn with each other easily.

I used to be a big fan of Dolce Gabbana (still am, just don't need more). I have several suits and they are fabulous. Not only are they great at tailoring but also figure hugging pieces and underwear. Dolce & Gabbana are SEXY Italian IMO. Their muse is one hellova rich sexy auntie. I very much appreciate their muse, but sadly she is a little too confidently sexy for me to relate.

I don't see Alessandro Michele's rich Italian aunt as sexy at all :nono: she is her own special 'creation'. Out with the fairies. She's so eccentric, there's always a worry when the fun stops and the real :cray: takes over :panic:

I have some wonderful tailoring by Gucci, especially well-cut coats and jackets, but Gucci are a leather goods business. The clothes would do better to work to their strengths.
 
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I used to wear a lot of dolce back in the day. And, I shopped Gucci and YSL RTW during tom ford eras. Gucci and dolce are entirely different beasts imo, even though both hug the body. The gucci RTW that I own is much more structured (like French or British tailoring is more upright) ; the dolce more relaxed. So, I can easily imagine Hedi at the helm of Gucci.
 
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I used to wear a lot of dolce back in the day. And, I shopped Gucci and YSL RTW during tom ford eras. Gucci and dolce are entirely different beasts imo, even though both hug the body. The gucci RTW that I own is much more structured (like French or British tailoring is more upright) ; the dolce more relaxed. So, I can easily imagine Hedi at the helm of Gucci.

That's a change that happened under AM I think.

Hedi has always seemed to make for skinny skinnies - men as well as women. He said because he felt so alienated by the butch, muscle-bound and athletic flattering menswear of his youth. He found his aesthetic in the role models of earlier rock stars. It will be interesting where he goes next. Not that he doesn't have enough money to just retire.
 
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The set is amazing.

Who's the successor after Sabato De Sarno left Gucci as creative director?
So my post from the Gucci AW25 FS was moved here.

Hedi Slimane is the dude responsible for removing Yves from Yves Saint Laurent. He is bold and what Gucci needs rn. Their sales have been tanking. Gucci has many different logos so Hedi will most likely create a new one. It's a good fit IMO 👗

PT BTW please say what some of the abbreviations mean for things like MTO. I'd really appreciate it 🥰
 
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So my post from the Gucci AW25 FS was moved here.

Hedi Slimane is the dude responsible for removing Yves from Yves Saint Laurent. He is bold and what Gucci needs rn. Their sales have been tanking. Gucci has many different logos so Hedi will most likely create a new one. It's a good fit IMO 👗

PT BTW please say what some of the abbreviations mean for things like MTO. I'd really appreciate it 🥰

Made to order :tup:
 
Sabato de Sarno made Jackie handbag in a nice patent red:
00063-gucci-spring-2024-ready-to-wear-details-credit-gorunway.jpeg



Here's the non-patent Red:
image_03.jpg
 
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