Coach Rehab and Rescue Club

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Here is a better photo. Do you still recommend the steel wool? Just out of curiosity do you hand buff or would it need a Dremel? I've been very iffy on dremeling or using anything abrasive on turnlocks and D rings and such because I have no idea what's solid brass and what's not, don't want to dremel off protective lacquer coatings if it's there (I wouldn't recognize it if it were) and I'm scared I'd get down to the bare metal and ruin a turnlock or something.View attachment 4709489
You're right about a metal tag or I can always just switch a hangtag around to a bag I want to carry.
I have a Dremel and I have used it a few times on big jobs but I usually just hand polish.

I am new to using the super fine 000 steel wool but I have recently used it on a few vintage bags that I am currently rehabbing and I have been impressed with the results.

It's not the nicest stuff to handle, wear gloves and eye protection (I wear glasses all the time so that isn't an issue for me). I put a paper plate under the bag or strap that I am working on so that the fine steel wool particles fall into it as I buff. Dispose of the paper plate carefully when you done, I would hate to get any of those tiny particles into my eyes or food.

I suppose it would be possible to "overdo it" and damage the metal but so far I have been lucky. I use it just to get off the worst of the tarnish (or coating) off and then I finish with Wenol metal polish.

Polishing the hardware is my least favorite part of rehabbing but I think that the steel wool makes it much easier. There are others here that have more experience with using steel wool so they can probably give you (and me!) some tips.

Your description is great! I like using steel wool on hardware and have never tried a Dremel. I mask off the surrounding leather and rub with a small piece of steel wool, gently but firmly in a circular motion. As soon as it starts looking evenly shiny, I stop. Then I finish up with a Cape Cod Metal Polishing Cloth.

Here's my British Tan Chrystie with her shiny springlock:

IMG_0109.JPG
 
Here is a better photo. Do you still recommend the steel wool? Just out of curiosity do you hand buff or would it need a Dremel? I've been very iffy on dremeling or using anything abrasive on turnlocks and D rings and such because I have no idea what's solid brass and what's not, don't want to dremel off protective lacquer coatings if it's there (I wouldn't recognize it if it were) and I'm scared I'd get down to the bare metal and ruin a turnlock or something.View attachment 4709489
You're right about a metal tag or I can always just switch a hangtag around to a bag I want to carry.
If you hold a
Here is a better photo. Do you still recommend the steel wool? Just out of curiosity do you hand buff or would it need a Dremel? I've been very iffy on dremeling or using anything abrasive on turnlocks and D rings and such because I have no idea what's solid brass and what's not, don't want to dremel off protective lacquer coatings if it's there (I wouldn't recognize it if it were) and I'm scared I'd get down to the bare metal and ruin a turnlock or something.View attachment 4709489
You're right about a metal tag or I can always just switch a hangtag around to a bag I want to carry.
if you hold a magnet against the brass and it adheres, it is coated. A magnet will not adhere to solid brass.
 
Got my precreed bag today...and the Coach stamp is so faint that I think dunking will make me lose it completely.
So will just be doing a clean with CPR and polish the hardware. Its so tight witht the clips that I cant get the strap off and am scared the grommet will come out if I force it.View attachment 4709563 View attachment 4709564 View attachment 4709565
Is it possible strap is replacement? Looked at the pre creed Dinky of mine, strap is double spaghetti with small dog leash clasps, the strap can be on and off easily.
 

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So if the top layer is chipping like in my photo, is it likely the brass coating or a protective clear coat of some kind? I'd hate to polish the brass off.
I've never gotten down to base metal from polishing the brass on any of my vintage bags, even those that are just plated. That isn't true about newer bags. I think the brass plating is fairly thick on older bags.
 
Thank you for the info about the brass. If hubs has some fine steel wool in the garage I might give it a go. He does have a dremel but we need to buy some very fine tips for it and I am not quite ready for that anyway!

Another question regarding the paint I used to cover up spots on my recent rehab. I am reading that acrylic paint comes off with water? I did not expect that.I thought paint was permanent! How do you condition with CPR if you have had to paint some stains or applied paint to a large area? Is there not a permanent paint option available?
 
Thank you for the info about the brass. If hubs has some fine steel wool in the garage I might give it a go. He does have a dremel but we need to buy some very fine tips for it and I am not quite ready for that anyway!

Another question regarding the paint I used to cover up spots on my recent rehab. I am reading that acrylic paint comes off with water? I did not expect that.I thought paint was permanent! How do you condition with CPR if you have had to paint some stains or applied paint to a large area? Is there not a permanent paint option available?
It is permanent under normal use once paint cured, unless you dunk the bag again, then paint may slowly soak up water, you will be able to scrub most paint off with some elbow grease.
One British tan bag I bought was thinly coated with paint, I only find out during dunking the bag. I was able to remove 95 percent of the paint. The end result was a very rustic looking tan Leather bag with darker speckles every where . Lol...
You can still condition with cpr after paint cured, buff the leather with cpr till absorbed, some floating paint color will come off with first cpr application, but will only make the appearance more natural. The color loss won't be much or near none for any additional cpr conditioning.
 
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Sorry if this has already been asked a kagillion times... I tried searching this thread but can’t easily find an answer without reading all 1781 pages!

I found a very beat up vintage saddle bag I’m rehabbing. I’ve done the dunk and dry but no conditioner yet. Any tips or ideas for getting rid of (or just lessening the look of) these stains, paint and ink? Not sure what the green is...at least it’s under the flap.

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