I think I'm having a sur-teint crise!
I think DDs behave completely differently than normal silk twills.
I have the 'silver' DD La Danse du Cheval Marwari and it had a few marks from make-up sometime last Summer. I thought that by hand-washing it as per-normal eventually the stains would come out (as in = twill-normal, tepid temp/hand-wash/Ecover = perfect). 5 washes later, well, the same stains look worse to me.
I figured H throw these in the washing machine to achieve these DD. One of the worst things that can happen to normal silk is to get that washed-silk effect whereas DDs already are that way. Maybe they lose a protective layer from the process and have the ability to get dirtier quicker and the stain attaches more strongly itself to the 'fuzzier' fibres (granted mine is a light colour so everything shows). I sort of wish I'd washed it again and again straight away last Summer.
All base make-up is basically oil-water emulsion plus colour. The type I use is tinted moisturiser by Nars, and which should come out with even the gentlest wash, never a problem before.
After consulting the finest dry cleaner on the planet, my MIL. Not just any MIL mind (though that may be credentials enough) this particular MIL also happens to be the former owner-operator of a chain of specialist German dry cleaners until retirement. She said that contemporary machine wash on a delicate setting at a cool temp cannot hurt and I can always send to the cleaners H used if it doesn't work. So, on her word, I just threw caution to the wind (well kind of, I put it in a non-bleached natural laundry bag first so it won't catch) and stuck it on 20/silk wash in the machine (no dryer) right this minute. I'll let you know how it turns out.