Fluffing is when the leather disintegrates, and you see fibres, usually cream coloured or white coming out.
This happens on the edges where there is the most wear.
High quality leather doesn't have a layer of fibre. The best is box leather and it's from the best part of the animal and it's even in quality and strength. It has natural variations which you look out for.
Less high quality leather can have a variety of thicknesses and can be horizontally bonded with another layer of leather to get the strength or thickness needed. There are decent leathers that aren't high end. Some are robust, like cowhide. some are quite validly sliced horizontally to produce suede on one side (the inside) for separate use, and the thinner leather for other uses. Quite strong and still appropriately called leather.
Composite leather is the absolute the worst and used extensively in SUPER FAKES.
It shouldn't be actually called leather. They basically mash up poor quality bits of leather into very tiny pieces and then work it into a flat bonded glued piece, usually with a layer of fabric to hold it together. Without this the leather would fall apart immediately due to lack of strength. It's just mashed up after all...
THIS fabric is what causes the fluffing, as both the tiny pieces of leather give way to stress and reveal layers of what shouldn't be there. At all.
Ordinary fakes using versions of plastic or Polyurethanes are easier to pick. They are unusually even in quality and have repeat patterns of the fake impressions of the animal hide, eg. pitting where the hair follicles were etc. plus the texture.
I am so over the FAKES! Yet the super fakes are just insanely ubiquitous.
From what I can work out, the Japanese are really into them, buying a fake that passes for real for about a year maybe two, riding the trend, then selling them off on websites. Reclo is one that I am very wary of but there are certainly others. I just get fed up with trying to identify a real one if you get the picture...best avoided!
Then naive people from the US or elsewhere buy them thinking they got such a great deal! If they sell it on before the disintegration happens they will never know.
But someone ends up holding the baby. When visible disintegration happens is when buyer's remorse/regret sets in. You do NOT want to be that person.
Even on supposedly guaranteed websites I've seen plenty of fakes. Greed drives it and there is an endless demand for luxury goods.
I've seen people say
Oh I love the Japanese websites, and I just don't have the energy to tell them they're buying into a delusion. Nobody wants to hear it. And they could get lucky I guess.
Right now with inflation and the lowering of quality in new bags, there is a colossal scrambling for vintage. You must do your homework and constantly update yourself about fakes and either become an expert yourself or consult with an expert before committing.
The fakers read the websites it's all publicly available and that's one reason I assume why the experts in here never give the basis for their decisions. It's just clues for the fakers to correct, and that's how we've ended up with super fakes.
As your grandmother probably used to tell you:
If a deal looks too good to be true, it probably is!
PS I like playing a game of making my own assessment before I read what the authenticators in here say, to verify if I have made the correct call. This is fun, sometimes I disagree but obviously I don't have the traction to make a comment as a relative newbie to the site and more importantly, for reasons of discretion. Also
Gucci has a colossal number of styles out
there.
edit: Not all the Japanese websites are riddled with fakes, but a blanket assumption that they're all safe, or any are always safe seems naive to me.