Best leather for a Kelly 25 or 28?

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bordeauxH

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Feb 9, 2022
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Hello! I'm thinking of getting a Kelly in black with GHW, and wondered what would be the best leather to choose? I'd like the bag to hold its shape- love the patina box develops over time, does it scratch very easily? I am also thinking of the chevre, madame, or epsom.
 
Are you only looking for a new bag (i.e. made in 2023) or are you open to preloved and possibly vintage ones too? For the latter, you can consider discontinued leathers such as Courchevel or Ardennes :smile:
 
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It really depends on your personal style, @swnsea21. A Sellier (outside stitch) Kelly will hold its shape, so all three leathers you mention would be fine. As I understand it, "Madame" is an outside stitch Birkin. So, that leaves box calf, chèvre and epsom to consider. Epsom would most likely be the easiest for you to get. It's a stamped leather and the least costly choice. Corner wear on Epsom means that corner color loss can fixed but the stamped pattern would be lost.

Of the remaining two leathers, Box Calf and Chèvre, my feeling is that Chèvre is more casual and Box Calf is more versatile. If your lifestyle is mostly casual, Chèvre is a great choice. If, instead, you want a day to night bag then I'd go with Box Calf. It's both casual and elegant, depending on how you style it. Best of all, it will get more and more beautiful with use. If you do choose Box Calf, don't be afraid of those inevitable scratches. Those scratches will blend and soften and help to create that marvelous patina.

One last thought on which size to choose. The mini trend will not be with us forever. The 28 size is not too small and not too big. I believe it's the size you would be happiest with in the long term.
 
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I think sellier or retourné is your first consideration here. That will dictate leather availability. From your leather selections, sounds like you are looking for sellier (since you did not mention Togo or Clemence, unless you just dislike that grain).
 
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I think if you love the character of box you will never be content until you have a box bag.
It suits a Kelly so well.
Look for vintage and not only you will have a considerable cost saving, but the leather will have developed the patina that only time can give.

Once you have got used to being a little careful with your fingernails, you will pick it up, carry it and wear it with enjoyment to the end of time - well, for many years anyway.
 
Hello! I'm thinking of getting a Kelly in black with GHW, and wondered what would be the best leather to choose? I'd like the bag to hold its shape- love the patina box develops over time, does it scratch very easily? I am also thinking of the chevre, madame, or epsom.

I adore Box leather. A smaller bag (25, 28) will tend to hold shape better than a larger one ( 32,35). My 28K retourne in Box holds its shape well. I am not as familiar with Madam leather, but I assume from its smooth appearance that it might scratch. I think it’s closest in appearance to Box from the choices you mention. I am personally not as fond of chèvre bc in black, I think it tends to look soft and flaccid as it gets older. But, mine is the minority opinion, as chèvre is very popular on TPF. Epsom will hold its shape but it will not be as lustrous or patinated (is that a word) as the others. sellier is my first choice for its clean structural lines. Have fun deciding :)

ETA: great info and a correction re Madam leather provided by @MillStream in post 8 below :)
 
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Hear the scoop on Madame Leather . . . embossed like Epsom.
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Madison Avenue Couture
https://madisonavenuecouture.com › blogs › news › y...

Mar 23, 2022 — Supple and soft to the touch, the Hermès Veau Madame leather is embossed like the Epsom, but with a finer grain and a softer feel.


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Thanks for the correction! Good to know :)
 
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You're basically asking whether to get an entry level leather (Epsom) or a premium leather (Chévre) Kelly. Both are lightweight. Epsom is an embossed leather, whereas goatskin is a natural rather than embossed leather. The "embossed" texture can wear away, especially on the corners, and cannot be restored. With Chévre, the spine runs down the front center, and is matched on the bottom and the back. A work of art, in my opinion.
 
Black looks good on most leathers! For you to decide, it comes down to occasions and how you want to look. Here a few thoughts:

For a posh Kelly look, you should look into Box or other type of non-grained leathers.
For a more durable and scratch-reistant leather, definitely Epsom.
For a more versatile look, that is, a bag you can dress up or down, you should look into chèvre, Togo or Clémence, or again, Epsom.

Comment on corner wear: Corner wear occurs if you use one single bag all the time and without giving it a break. If you rotate between several bags on a regular basis, and avoid bringing Birkins when it rains or for specific occasions where you could damage it, you'll be fine. Same goes to soft leathers and light colours.
HTH
 
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There is, of course, availability to consider as well.
Tons of threads here on both leathers plus the reference library...the search box is your friend!
 
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