A few vintage questions from a newb

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Rhinofly

Member
Dec 4, 2019
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Greetings all

I am new to vintage coach products and new to this site and I had a few questions I thought you all might be able to help with.

First, is there a good reference somewhere which shows specifically which vintage coach bags were actually designed by Bonnie Cashin? The way her name is thrown around on ebay auctions it can be hard to tell what is real. I suspect many of those attributions I see are wrong based on the creed and numbers.

Second, is there an online source for older Coach catalogs? It would be very helpful to be able to research the old catalogs myself.

I have done a good bit of searching but it can be hard to find good information among the sea of hype, advertising and commerce surrounding this brand.

BTW, I got into this because I enjoy hunting down and restoring old quality items. I have restored many a vintage hand tool and sewing machine, but now I am also on the lookout for handbags for my wife. Anyway, thanks for the help.
 
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Greetings all

I am new to vintage coach products and new to this site and I had a few questions I thought you all might be able to help with.

First, is there a good reference somewhere which shows specifically which vintage coach bags were actually designed by Bonnie Cashin? The way her name is thrown around on ebay auctions it can be hard to tell what is real. I suspect many of those attributions I see are wrong based on the creed and numbers.

Second, is there an online source for older Coach catalogs? It would be very helpful to be able to research the old catalogs myself.

I have done a good bit of searching but it can be hard to find good information among the sea of hype, advertising and commerce surrounding this brand.

BTW, I got into this because I enjoy hunting down and restoring old quality items. I have restored many a vintage hand tool and sewing machine, but now I am also on the lookout for handbags for my wife. Anyway, thanks for the help.

Question one - most "Cashin" bags or styles for sale have little or no connection with Bonnie Cashin. At best they may have been inspired by one of her classic designs but as you found out already, the name Cashin is thrown around by sellers like a Frisbee at a Fourth Of July picnic.

Cashin's design period for Coach (technically she was never employed by them, she worked WITH them but never FOR them as a paid employee) was from 1962 to 1974. As far as most of the research done by some of our forum members has found, Coach didn't start using creeds and serial numbers until AFTER Cashin and Coach parted ways, which means that any bag with a creed and/or serial number was NOT made while Cashin was affiliated with Coach. It's a certainty that the registration or serial number came several years after the stand-alone creed stamp and well after Cashin's departure, so any bag with a serial number can't be a Cashin bag. The only newer bags that can technically use the Cashin name in the description are the "tribute" styles that Coach did several times, mostly after Cashin's death in 2000 and them about 10 years later on a series of bags and accessories that used her design drawings.

Just to confuzzle things a bit, we've seen both "Cashin" and "Cashin-era" descriptions in listings. For most of us here, "Cashin"means an actual Cashin design. "Cashin-era" could be used to describe a style that Coach's own designers did during the same time period since the in-house design staff and Cashin worked independently of each other and there are vintage designs from as far back as the early 1960s (which is when Coach first added handbags to their line) done by Coach employees that have no connection to Bonnie Cashin.

Just for the record, I'm not a Cashin expert or collector, but questions about Cashin and Coach can also be answered by posters in the Coach Clubhouse forum under the Vintage Coach Photos and Chat subforum
https://forum.purseblog.com/threads/vintage-coach-photos-chat.857690/

Question two - there's no official online source for Coach catalogs. There are a few sellers who have copied a CD that was available on Ebay a few years back from a seller who scanned several dozen old catalogs going back to 1981 which is about as far back as a catalog in the familiar multi-page form existed, but there are one or two dating errors in those files. A few of us have bought older paper catalogs if they were available at a reasonable price, but demand for them has raised the prices to where they're not comfortably affordable for the casual buyer any more.

Both the Vintage Photos and Chat and the Authenticate This Coach forums are very good sources of information. The important thing is to authenticate ALL Coach bag and accessory purchases, because fakes are extremely common and some of them are surprisingly accurate. Any style made can be faked, and probably has been. Also, never depend on claims made by a seller that a bag has been "professionally authenticated", there are both competant and INcompetant authenticating services.

For related info with the emphasis on classic and vintage Coach, there's a series of 6 Guides that I researched and wrote for Ebay seller "salearea" back in 2011-12 and recently updated and posted here at tPF. They're listed as "Salearea Guides" and Pinned to the top of the Coach Shopping index pages and make (I hope!) interesting reading, with a lot of tips on how to recognise possible or definite fakes and what to expect from genuine Coach products, and what "information" or "rules" found from other online sources should usually or always be ignored.. The last few posts in that thread are the Daria48 Fake Coach Number Lists which list a few of the most common fake and questionable Coach serial numbers.
https://forum.purseblog.com/threads/salearea-guides.983575/
 
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Thank you very much for this thoughtful reply. I have indeed read your guides and earlier today I purchased that '81-'02 catalog collection you referred to. There seems to be a lack of definitive reference material on the early years of coach bags. That sort of surprises me considering the interest in the brand, new and vintage. Someone should write a book on the topic. But then, I guess that would just be more ammo for the counterfeiters.
 
Stephanie Lake wrote a book called "Bonnie Cashin Chic is Where you find it".

There's a few pages with photos of some of her designs for Coach. You might check it out. I think she was so ahead of her time. They don't identify the names of products or anything but it helps to understand her aesthetic.
 
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Thank you very much for this thoughtful reply. I have indeed read your guides and earlier today I purchased that '81-'02 catalog collection you referred to. There seems to be a lack of definitive reference material on the early years of coach bags. That sort of surprises me considering the interest in the brand, new and vintage. Someone should write a book on the topic. But then, I guess that would just be more ammo for the counterfeiters.

EXACTLY! Making it easier for counterfeiters to fake older but high-demand bags such as Cashin or hard to find vintage Coach styles is NOT what we want to do here! It's happened too many times before, here and at other forums like Ebay's long-dead Shoes and Accessories forum which was a place where counterfeiters came for information on how to make their fakes more accurate. Within a few months after we'd post common problems we'd spotted on fakes, PRESTO, suddenly new fakes would start appearing with those very problems tweaked or corrected.

As for a book - that would be something worth reading, but it would help to have access to Coach's archives. (Maybe Jed Winokur, their official Archivist, might write one some day, I'd definitely buy it!) A lot of information about pre-catalog bags would have to be gleaned from the buyers, but the aforementioned Vintage Chat forum here has a LOT of passionate collectors willing to share their knowledge. I highly recommend it.
 
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The UCLA Library also has a digital collection from an exhibit of a wide range of Cashin designs including some of her Coach styles, it's always interesting to see how well her classic clothing and accessory designs have stood the test of time. If I were young, rich and thin instead of being more like my ID's namesake, I would sell my soul to find one of her leather turnlock coats.

http://digital2.library.ucla.edu/Search.do?keyWord=coach&selectedProjects=4
 
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EXACTLY! Making it easier for counterfeiters to fake older but high-demand bags such as Cashin or hard to find vintage Coach styles is NOT what we want to do here! It's happened too many times before, here and at other forums like Ebay's long-dead Shoes and Accessories forum which was a place where counterfeiters came for information on how to make their fakes more accurate. Within a few months after we'd post common problems we'd spotted on fakes, PRESTO, suddenly new fakes would start appearing with those very problems tweaked or corrected.

As for a book - that would be something worth reading, but it would help to have access to Coach's archives. (Maybe Jed Winokur, their official Archivist, might write one some day, I'd definitely buy it!) A lot of information about pre-catalog bags would have to be gleaned from the buyers, but the aforementioned Vintage Chat forum here has a LOT of passionate collectors willing to share their knowledge. I highly recommend it.

How does one gain access to the archives? I saw a photo tour a few years ago but would love to visit in person one day. So many beautiful pink Bonnie bags :love::love::love:

It wasn't clear from the article if it's like a museum so you just show up and buy a ticket or if it's an exclusive thing as they don't want to risk damage or stealing of bags/designs to just anyone.
 
How does one gain access to the archives? I saw a photo tour a few years ago but would love to visit in person one day. So many beautiful pink Bonnie bags :love::love::love:

It wasn't clear from the article if it's like a museum so you just show up and buy a ticket or if it's an exclusive thing as they don't want to risk damage or stealing of bags/designs to just anyone.

You don't. It's a private location for the use of Coach employees and designers only, or on rare occasions for customers or private contractors and only by Coach's invitation. And no, they certainly don't want any unauthorized plebes sniffing around and leaving fingerprints and nose-prints on their locked glass cases.

TPF member and professional Coach restorer Tetondeb has some photos on her blog, try searching her site:
https://www.sacsmagnifiques.com/blog/
https://www.sacsmagnifiques.com/spo...ch-archive-in-new-york-city-with-jed-winokur/

Other links, Pinterest may require being a member:
http://ruemag.com/editors-picks/interviews/the-selby-interviews-jed-winokur-archivist-at-coach
http://ruemag.com/editors-picks/interviews/jed-winokur

 
One can only dream I guess!

Yes, I read the first article I think before I knew about the purse forum! There was one shelf of the Safari bags and similar designs I saw and I wish they would remake them without changing much. I love the pink and teal bags from Bonnie :drool:

I'll check out the other things, too! Thanks for sharing!

Unrelated: but a few years I visited the JFK museum in Boston and I was very excited to learn that they had a bunch of Jackie's dresses and purses. It was my favorite part :lol:
 
One can only dream I guess!

Yes, I read the first article I think before I knew about the purse forum! There was one shelf of the Safari bags and similar designs I saw and I wish they would remake them without changing much. I love the pink and teal bags from Bonnie :drool:

I'll check out the other things, too! Thanks for sharing!

Unrelated: but a few years I visited the JFK museum in Boston and I was very excited to learn that they had a bunch of Jackie's dresses and purses. It was my favorite part :lol:
They remade Safari bags a few years ago but they didn't do them right IMO. They were tiny like the mini Safari and had polka dots.
 
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I agree! I saw some of them (were they called Cady?) on eBay and I didn't like any of the patterns enough. I think they were crossgrain, too?

Then the outlets had a larger safari remake maybe 2 years ago but I didn't like those colors either.

I want them in the exact same colors they were originally made in! :P:lol:
 
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I agree! I saw some of them (were they called Cady?) on eBay and I didn't like any of the patterns enough. I think they were crossgrain, too?

Then the outlets had a larger safari remake maybe 2 years ago but I didn't like those colors either.

I want them in the exact same colors they were originally made in! :P:lol:
Oh, yeah, I remember the outlet versions too. I was a little tempted but I want the original colors too!
 
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