OK, I didn't want to say what I thought, to start with, as I didn't want to run the risk of, possibly, influencing the whole tone of the thread; because I wanted to hear people's honest opinions.
But, once again, I don't like this much.
Maybe if this was 1997 I wouldn't mind - but not now.
For me, this collection looks like IKEA for Chloe and as IKEA were telling the British public to 'Chuck Out Your Chintz' back in 1997 and modernism and minimalism has been knocking around for at least the last 10 years (not just in fashion, but also in art, architecture and interiors), frankly, I'm sick of it.
Geometry is fine (I'm a fan), but this kind of minimalist take on it looks very passé to me.
Also, I find this collection strangely cutesy. Cutesy's better than ugly (as A/W '07 was), but it's just not what I'm looking for.
Cutesy IKEA for Chloe, by way of Marni.
Not to mention the hideous, used-condom trousers, that appeared all over the S/S '08 runways (not just at Chloe).
The thing is, Chloe has always been a soft, feminine house and although all its previous designers have put their stamp on it, none of them have forgotten that.
It seems to me that the
one thing that
can't gel with soft and feminine is hard and masculine; which is PMA's aesthetic in a nutshell.
Thinking one can soften hard, minimal, lines and motifs with a bit of frou, unconvincing surface detail and pretty colours just seems totally ridiculous, to me; like dressing a bricklayer in a tutu.
Not to mention that it ends up looking like a dog's dinner.
I don't always agree with her, but I think Cathy Horyns (writing for the NY Times) summed it up perfectly:
'But could Mr. Andersson have starved his hungry audience more? The shapes in the collection were so undefined, so indistinct that you had the feeling the same dress was going by again and again.
He seems to want to fit his abstract style to Chloé, but after two seasons, it’s starting to feel like a square peg.'
At the end of the day, I don't blame Paulo, I blame his boss, Ralph Toledano.
As he said himself, in 2002, at Chloe's 50th birthday celebrations:
'If the house has survived for 50 years, it's also because Gaby Aghion left behind a true creative spirit which the designers have emulated.'
That spirit was of soft femininity.
So what on earth was he thinking?