I also wanted to add my recollection of a topic of conversation that I’ve had with more than one SA at more than one premier luxury brand
1. they actually don’t judge many prospective clients by what that client wears in the store to shop. What the SA can tell almost immediately is whether that client is just after a popular bag, and that client, even one that racks up minimum prespend, is usually not considered a desirable or top tier client. An H or chanel SA wants to bang their head against a table for the fiftieth client who walks in asking to see x popular bag, even if it’s not a B/K/C. They want the clients who will shop season after season that they can call whenever they think there is something that client will like and purchase
without regard to prespend. The luxury brand business model is focused on the few clients who spend enough that prespend is not an issue. (I think of them as those ladies with magnificent collections that
@Notorious Pink sees every week in her home store. Sadly the truth is that even with covid, the 1% simply grew wealthier and a tiny portion of that 1% that spends enough on luxury goods, commands the lion’s share of the best product and service. And a chanel flagships rent is probably paid by sunglasses, perfume, cosmetics and nail polish. CF bags are just expensive icing on the Main event which is RTW (
@TraceySH and others have explained this very well elsewhere on the forum).
2. part of this viewpoint is a direct result of the corporate brand creating such high monetary goal for the Individual SA to meet that they have to sell so much $$$$ stuff per shift. Time is money, and leather goods like bags usually don’t count towards the sales goals (bc bags sell themselves). If an SA doesnt meet those goals, it’s a serious problem with their manager.
3. Even though the high cost of bags makes clients naturally demand perfection, it’s just not worth it to an SA to have to deal with repeat returns or overly picky clients, bc the SAs honestly aren’t compensated that way.
4. There are a few different ways to look at quality control. One can legitimately argue that to serve the burgeoning Chinese market alone, Hermes opened a ton of new stores, and each of those stores naturally had to have BKC bags to meet demand. It’s not like new craftspeople have the luxury of years to hone their craft in the same way as in previous decades. The increased demand also happened with chanel and other premier brands. These brands also created an artificial shortage of these bags to keep demand high, and decided that RTW clients and other special clients should get first dibs on other coveted pieces. But the companies are still producing much more product than say twenty years ago. That naturally translates fewer truly special orders and lesser merchandise.
5. several SAs have said to me please do not to pass their contact info along bc they literally cannot handle more clients. Their plate is full with their current roster due to the intensive personal service required to service the top tier. BC that tiny segment can of course shop anywhere. I kind of feel fortunate to have been grandfathered in (due to very kind personal referrals and my own purchase history) bc while I do spend quite a bit, i am NOT top tier, (I don’t have a rolls Royce or boat to deck out in H leather) and I feel that the service I get is due to my being likeable and loyal. Loyal means, if I see something that I like on TPF or Neimans, I ask my SA at the boutique. If I’m in another city, Id rather wait until I’m back in my home area to find it. If my friend spends a lot bc Bergdorfs has a great sale, I wait. In return, I get a call when the SA thinks something is perfect for me, even though she has wealthier clients who might also like it. My SAs know what looks good on me, what suits my style and personality, and has better taste than I do. I kind of feel like why should I second guess them Bc they are the professionals. And, my H SA also understands why I shop vintage bags bc what I sometimes want is simply not available at H, not in Horizons program or special order. He gets it. I feel very passionate about this subject, thus the length of this post
p.s. some SAs ARE just mean or grouchy, so don’t shop with them. In 1989, I was buying my first grown up designer suit and the SA at Suzanne in Boston told me that their stuff was not for me (or I was not suitable for them); so I went down the Street to Guy LaRoche and bought two suits there. I still have both (Will post in the vintage wardrobe thread)