•12 Dec 2021: Scarf Imitates Art Redux: Another look at this inspiration
Happy Sunday, my dear scarfie friends! I am delighted at the opportunity to host what is probably my favorite week on SOTD. Last year we learned a lot and had tons of fun during our “Scarf Imitates Art” week. At its conclusion we found that there was still left a lot of material to be covered. So, it was only fitting to bring back the theme this year in order to to expand on it.
As Hermès scarves aficionados and collectors we well know that Hermès scarves are works of art with designs that are beautifully and masterfully fashioned by artists, illustrators and artisans the world over. Artists like Jan Bajtlik and the Anamorphée duo are often inspired by specific artistic styles and genres. Often the art, crafts and traditions of a people and culture are represented, as is the case with the South African Ardmore Artists. Many times, there is something about the style, colors and subject matter of a design that evokes a particular art historical period, artistic style or cultural tradition, whether it was intended or not by the Hermès designer. This week we will explore all of these possibilities.
I have chosen to kick off the week with four scarves that I bought this year, beginning with Grand Théâtre Nouveau created by Gianpaolo Pagni.
Pagni took pages of antique Épinal illustrations and reimagined them juxtaposed with the kinetic, geometric patterns that he features in his rubber stamp graphics and picture books. According to Hermès, “The Épinal imagery was founded in Vosges, France in 1796. For two centuries, this printing house distributed colored images throughout Europe, illustrating countless subjects: exotic fauna and flora, common trades, historical events, fables and legends, riddles, etc. Gianpaolo Pagni had the privilege of accessing the archives of this house.” Following the scarf are images from the Epinal catalog and an 1890s Pellerin toy paper theater scenery entitled Grand Théâtre Nouveau.
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Modernisme Tropical, designed by Brazilian artist Filipe Jardim, is a dynamic and complex abstract composition. Jardim interprets a lush tropical landscape in his unique pictorial style. To me, the composition reminds me of paintings from the school of Abstract Expressionism. It also has a decidedly mid-century classic vibe. I am happy to have recently found two CWs of this design. Below are pics of the scarves followed by images of the work of abstract expressionist Jackson Pollock, surrealist/abstract Cuban artist Wilfredo Lam and a mid-century modern interior.
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The title of Zoé Pauwell’s Ors Bleus d’Afrique literally means “the blue gold of Africa” which refers to the valuable indigo dye used in African textiles, especially by the Yoruba people of West Africa. The carré design is inspired by the patterns of these batiks. Below are pics of the Hermès scarf and of Yoruba indigo Adire cloth.
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My last scarf today is one of the most popular historically-themed designs created by Hermès: Aline Honoré’s Le Voyage de Pytheas. The illustration is inspired by the expeditions of ancient Greek explorer Pytheas. The Hermès catalog states, “In the sixth century BC, in the narrow inlet known as Lacydon, the Phoenicians founded their first colony, Massalia – the modern city of Marseille. The Greek Pytheas – a contemporary of Alexander the Great and Aristotle – was born there two hundred years later. Eager for new discoveries, he managed to convince the city assembly to finance an extraordinary journey, taking him far beyond the Mediterranean world to the unexplored seas of the far north, in search of amber and pewter. His itinerary established him as one of Europe's first explorers, bringing home a fascinating account of his adventures.” A central image in the manner of ancient nautical maps is surrounded by mosaic trompe l’oeil patterns resembling those of Minoan Crete, especially the ones found in the ancient Palace of Knossos.
I own two colorways of this amazing design. Below the pictures of my scarves are pics of an ancient nautical map and some examples of ancient Minoan mosaics.
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Please join me this week as we explore, learn and share during this fascinating journey of discovery with our wonderful silks.