Scarves Ode to Hermes Cavalcadour Claire de Lune

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Jbizzybeetle

Member
Oct 14, 2018
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I Fell in love with this scarf through variety of posts on Scarf of the Day, and also followed the slow slog of discovery on threads on Fall Winter Scarves 2012 and Exceptional Scarves. Decided it would be much easier to collect information in one spot for the brave few who have collected and wear this “whisper of a cloud,” or who are just curious about the production of “mud silk” for this scarf and a variety of kimonos, etc.

I hope those who have posted their delightful photos elsewhere will share new ones here, as well as tying tips as this gauzy confection appears to defy gravity.

To sum it up: Our exceptional Cavalcadour Claire de Lune 90cm silk reflects centuries of treating Chinese silk in the rich oxides of the mud in the Pearl River delta of Guangdong Province, China. What we handle so delicately served BC Canada’s hardworking Chinese immigrants as their daily work garments.

Although I can’t reproduce every mention and photo here, I am starting off the thread with what I think is the first glimpse of this ethereal silk from the Fall Winter 2012 scarf thread: May 2012, when it was mistaken for a leathery Brides de Gala and appears to be featured in an article about the Hermes museum pieces. I’m open to correction on the latter.
EB5C53FE-9F7B-4CE7-A891-A365B6E6C39D.jpeg

A couple links are very helpful and will hopefully work:
http://curious.royalbcmuseum.bc.ca/clear-as-mud-conserving-chinese-mud-silk-in-british-columbia/
https://forum.purseblog.com/threads/show-us-your-exceptional-scarves.864042/page-4

The last one is a video previously posted by @xincinsin. That link now goes to the written research by the BC scholar. A simple Google search for “mud silk” will turn up this video as well as several others equally fascinating.
 
16214EB4-70FC-404E-A742-0997D5C4755D.jpeg Given the history of this hardworking “mud silk,” I tested it on a recent hot day when most 90cm silks will never see the light of summer skies as they tend to be too warm.

Tied fairly close for summer, I discovered the following:
A) Outdoors: Not hot around neck in full sun, rather cool actually while bare shoulders and cotton top took on heat rapidly.
B) Indoors: CdL kept in heat around neck while shoulders and cotton top cooled rapidly.
C) Excellent result all around!
 
Wow, these are amazing! :heart: Apparently the orangey-brown color comes from dying the fabric (up to 30 times!) with yam juice, then it's covered with mud. It's so funny to watch the workers dragging huge bolts of silk across the ground, laying them in the grass, and covering them in mud, considering how gingerly we treat them, lol. This video shows the whole fascinating process:
 
Wow, these are amazing! :heart: Apparently the orangey-brown color comes from dying the fabric (up to 30 times!) with yam juice, then it's covered with mud. It's so funny to watch the workers dragging huge bolts of silk across the ground, laying them in the grass, and covering them in mud, considering how gingerly we treat them, lol. This video shows the whole fascinating process:


Fantastic video! And another look at regional variations in the process— which is great since Hermes hasn’t given us all their recipe and protocol for the creation of CdL.
 
Wow, these are amazing! :heart: Apparently the orangey-brown color comes from dying the fabric (up to 30 times!) with yam juice, then it's covered with mud. It's so funny to watch the workers dragging huge bolts of silk across the ground, laying them in the grass, and covering them in mud, considering how gingerly we treat them, lol. This video shows the whole fascinating process:

Thank you for posting this wonderful video and to @Jbizzybeetle for creating a special thread for this silk. I would have loved knowing more about this process when my SA first put it aside for me. I had no idea how it was created.:heart::nuts:
 
Thanks for posting the beautiful scarf photos and the link to the BC museums conservation work. When my in-laws were in Hong Kong in the late 70's/early 80's mud-silk was all the rage among the ex-pat women - the favourite piece was a plain silk blouse/shirtwaist. I loved the finish then but the blouses were quite pricey and we were just starting out in life, so I never acquired one (although my older SIL & richer did). I was not aware that Hermes ever produced a scarf in this finish - so another one to add to my grail wish list.
 
Thanks for posting the beautiful scarf photos and the link to the BC museums conservation work. When my in-laws were in Hong Kong in the late 70's/early 80's mud-silk was all the rage among the ex-pat women - the favourite piece was a plain silk blouse/shirtwaist. I loved the finish then but the blouses were quite pricey and we were just starting out in life, so I never acquired one (although my older SIL & richer did). I was not aware that Hermes ever produced a scarf in this finish - so another one to add to my grail wish list.

What a great story! thank you!
I think you can still buy bolts of the material from Asia. I haven’t looked in a couple months, but I must not have thought the cost outrageous or I’d remember a negative reaction.
 
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I Fell in love with this scarf through variety of posts on Scarf of the Day, and also followed the slow slog of discovery on threads on Fall Winter Scarves 2012 and Exceptional Scarves. Decided it would be much easier to collect information in one spot for the brave few who have collected and wear this “whisper of a cloud,” or who are just curious about the production of “mud silk” for this scarf and a variety of kimonos, etc.

I hope those who have posted their delightful photos elsewhere will share new ones here, as well as tying tips as this gauzy confection appears to defy gravity.

To sum it up: Our exceptional Cavalcadour Claire de Lune 90cm silk reflects centuries of treating Chinese silk in the rich oxides of the mud in the Pearl River delta of Guangdong Province, China. What we handle so delicately served BC Canada’s hardworking Chinese immigrants as their daily work garments.

Although I can’t reproduce every mention and photo here, I am starting off the thread with what I think is the first glimpse of this ethereal silk from the Fall Winter 2012 scarf thread: May 2012, when it was mistaken for a leathery Brides de Gala and appears to be featured in an article about the Hermes museum pieces. I’m open to correction on the latter.
View attachment 4477155

A couple links are very helpful and will hopefully work:
http://curious.royalbcmuseum.bc.ca/clear-as-mud-conserving-chinese-mud-silk-in-british-columbia/
https://forum.purseblog.com/threads/show-us-your-exceptional-scarves.864042/page-4

The last one is a video previously posted by @xincinsin. That link now goes to the written research by the BC scholar. A simple Google search for “mud silk” will turn up this video as well as several others equally fascinating.
 
I Fell in love with this scarf through variety of posts on Scarf of the Day, and also followed the slow slog of discovery on threads on Fall Winter Scarves 2012 and Exceptional Scarves. Decided it would be much easier to collect information in one spot for the brave few who have collected and wear this “whisper of a cloud,” or who are just curious about the production of “mud silk” for this scarf and a variety of kimonos, etc.

I hope those who have posted their delightful photos elsewhere will share new ones here, as well as tying tips as this gauzy confection appears to defy gravity.

To sum it up: Our exceptional Cavalcadour Claire de Lune 90cm silk reflects centuries of treating Chinese silk in the rich oxides of the mud in the Pearl River delta of Guangdong Province, China. What we handle so delicately served BC Canada’s hardworking Chinese immigrants as their daily work garments.

Although I can’t reproduce every mention and photo here, I am starting off the thread with what I think is the first glimpse of this ethereal silk from the Fall Winter 2012 scarf thread: May 2012, when it was mistaken for a leathery Brides de Gala and appears to be featured in an article about the Hermes museum pieces. I’m open to correction on the latter.
View attachment 4477155

A couple links are very helpful and will hopefully work:
http://curious.royalbcmuseum.bc.ca/clear-as-mud-conserving-chinese-mud-silk-in-british-columbia/
https://forum.purseblog.com/threads/show-us-your-exceptional-scarves.864042/page-4

The last one is a video previously posted by @xincinsin. That link now goes to the written research by the BC scholar. A simple Google search for “mud silk” will turn up this video as well as several others equally fascinating.
 
Jbizzy - didn’t have time to fully explore your helpful links, so please forgive if is this is already covered: When I desperately searched for mine, based on lovely posts and photos on tPF, I seem to remember something about this scarf in a red CW as well, but can’t recall if it ever came into production or if someone actually had seen or even better bought one - would have been great to see a picture:-)
 
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