How did you build your designer RTW wardrobe?

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Pursedoctor

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May 24, 2016
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#1
Hi everyone! I've enjoyed reading everyone's posts here (and in the individual designer RTW threads) and seeing your fabulous clothes. I would love advice from this well dressed group. I recently decided to stop waiting till "I lose weight and deserve to wear nice clothes" and just do it. I started with a lovely Dior Bar jacket but I am not sure where to go next. My lifestyle is pretty casual (self-employed, rarely have dress up occasions) and I hate wearing heels. Live in denim and tees year round, with a few dresses thrown in for the summer. I would appreciate hearing your thoughts about

--What was your process when you started investing in nice clothes for yourself?
--Which RTW designers are more forgiving for vertically challenged, chubby middle aged ladies like myself?
--Given the prices what should I invest my wardrobe dollars in? Do I start with discreet basics? Or do I just buy what I love even if it may not be the most "practical"?

I look forward to hearing your thoughts!
 
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#2
Pursedoctor said:
What was your process when you started investing in nice clothes for yourself?
--Which RTW designers are more forgiving for vertically challenged, chubby middle aged ladies like myself?
--Given the prices what should I invest my wardrobe dollars in? Do I start with discreet basics? Or do I just buy what I love even if it may not be the most "practical"?
Click to expand...

I am 54, short, and thick waisted for my height. I have chunky calves and a bigger shoulder and upper arm. So fit is really important. I discovered to my chagrin that big sweaters; stretch leggings, and low waisted jeans really aren‘t flattering after all. I need some structure for clothes to be flattering. It can also be at times challenging to remember that size is just a number that can vary dramatically.

Look at your closet first and figure out what items; shapes; colors; silhouettes you love. Discard what you don’t. (Or at least pack it up elsewhere, so you can see the gaps in your wardrobe).

i advise shopping around first without necessarily buying. Try everything on from high end to lower.

if you adore something, but it’s limited usage, then think long and hard about whether to invest

Ideally you will train your eye to adore stuff that flatters and essentially adores you back.

Take full length pics (including your head and shoes). Many times, I have been saved from an impulse purchase By going through pics.

My basics are brunello cuchinelli pants. They wear like iron and are flattering on my particular build. Brunello also does a basic knit sweater layer every season.

Hermes does great cashmere, wool, or leather outer coats. They run large, but they’ve sharply risen in price. if you wear mens sweaters, H mens is a lot less expensive and perhaps half the price of Brunello or Chanel knitwear.

Brunello coats are gorgeous and may make it to sale depending on your size

chanel does amazing jackets; dresses; tops and cardigans. The workmanship and fit, although criticized, is still better than many dior pieces, and not much more expensive. (dior pieces are suddenly sky rocketing in price and the waists are small)

Even on sale, these designers are extremely expensive. For less expensive pieces, I like Eileen fisher (summer dresses, separates); Lafayette; and some department store brands which go on sale.

do not overlook NWT items from resale like TRR. But, if you buy on line, know your measurements and make sure you can return. If you buy resale (I buy boutique, resale, and vintage), it helps to have a good third party tailor and dry cleaner

ETA: do yourself a favor and do not go with well meaning friends until you have sorted out what works for you. Because the kindest friends may not always tell you when something is not the greatest
 
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#3
I think the first think to consider and fully understand about RTW, is that you are paying a lot of money for RTW. As in, you are paying for the brand and the design.
Is a T-shirt worth $500 USD, no, it is not. But do I like it enough and want it enough that I'm okay with spending that amount? If so, then I'll get it.

Once you accept that, then it's a bit of a combination of things:
1) Making sure the item what you really want
2) Making sure it fits you
3) Making sure the quality is up to your standards
4) Remember, that if you fall out of love with it, and if you sell it, it will almost always be a heavy loss (unless it's something very classic like a Chanel tweed jacket)

Honestly, when I started buying RTW, it was a combination of what fits in my budget and how much I like it. I have a limit on how much I'm willing to pay for a particular item. For example, for T-shirts, it's not worth it for me to pay over $500 for a T-shirt. My limit for a pair of pants or trousers is ~$1000, and my limit for a jacket or a piece of outerwear is ~$2500, maybe $3000 if I really love it. That limit or range I'm willing to pay does change over time, but that's what I have for now.

I try to buy items that I know are versatile, that I can wear with a variety of clothes that I already have and if it can work for at least 2 seasons (ie. spring and summer or both fall and winter). If it's going to be a statement piece, that's trickier, but generally it better be something that I love 1000%! :biggrin:

I also try to buy things that are generally well made with good materials and well-sourced high-quality materials. As we all know, not all RTW is the best quality, so I tend to look at the tags and see the blends of what was used. It's also great to talk with your SA, if you're eyeing a specific piece, I have great SAs who tell me if they're well tailored or not, and advise me what not to buy due to poor construction or materials.

I am a person who tries to focuses on getting cost-per-wear, as in, I like to use my items and I don't like them sitting in my closet. But at the end of the day, it's really about buying what you love and brings you joy even if you don't wear it that often.

In terms of buying clothes that fit my frame or body shape. I don't really focus much on what type of designers suit my body type (though you can do that), I focus on what kinds of cuts and shapes look best on my body, and then look for the clothes that meet that criteria.

Not an expert on RTW by the way, just my experience. I'm finding out that I'm leaning more towards RTW than bags, which is interesting haha.

Welcome to the world of RTW! :biggrin:Wearing RTW is such a luxurious experience and I have enjoyed every moment of it!
 
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#4
Dear @880 and @lill_canele - During my long time here as a lurker, I have often found myself nodding along in agreement with your posts. Thank you so much for your detailed thoughts/advice! I appreciate your taking the time.

880 said:
Ideally you will train your eye to adore stuff that flatters and essentially adores you back.
Click to expand...

Such good advice!

lill_canele said:
Not an expert on RTW by the way, just my experience. I'm finding out that I'm leaning more towards RTW than bags, which is interesting haha.
Click to expand...

I've been feeling the same way lately which is why I've been ready to join the world of RTW :)
 
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#7
If you want somewhat more affordable , i find Ralph lauren collection clothing to be very beautiful & well made.
I indulged in a leather blazer & a suede jacket and i feel like a queen when i wear them.
I am short & have a tummy yet a lot of their clothing (actually their non collection as well) is very flattering.
And their collection shoes are excellent.
I find the offshoot Akris punto to have very well made tweed skirts.

As far as buying for the life you have, well yes and no. If i only bought for that lifestyle, i would only have junky t shirts/skirts since i am a stahm of many children.
Sometimes i dress up just to prep dinner or get groceries so i feel more human.
Happy shopping!
 
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#8
First of all, ditto to everything @880 said!

One thing I might add is - invest in your tailored pieces. Things made out of a Jersey stretch fabric tend to not hold up, and they’re harder to mend. Dresses, jackets, and pants are my big ticket items.

As a taller curvy woman (I like to use the phrase “junoesque” rather than matronly) I tend to gravitate to Akris, Chanel and Carolina Herrera. Cucinelli for sweaters. Marina Rinaldi and Eileen Fisher (end of season sale!) for shirts and stretchy clothes.
 
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#12
A bottle of Red said:
If you want somewhat more affordable , i find Ralph lauren collection clothing to be very beautiful & well made.
I indulged in a leather blazer & a suede jacket and i feel like a queen when i wear them.
I am short & have a tummy yet a lot of their clothing (actually their non collection as well) is very flattering.
And their collection shoes are excellent.
I find the offshoot Akris punto to have very well made tweed skirts.

As far as buying for the life you have, well yes and no. If i only bought for that lifestyle, i would only have junky t shirts/skirts since i am a stahm of many children.
Sometimes i dress up just to prep dinner or get groceries so i feel more human.
Happy shopping!
Click to expand...
Thank you! I appreciate the suggestions and the reminder to not only dress for my non-glamorous life :smile:
 
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#13
Vintage Leather said:
First of all, ditto to everything @880 said!

One thing I might add is - invest in your tailored pieces. Things made out of a Jersey stretch fabric tend to not hold up, and they’re harder to mend. Dresses, jackets, and pants are my big ticket items.

As a taller curvy woman (I like to use the phrase “junoesque” rather than matronly) I tend to gravitate to Akris, Chanel and Carolina Herrera. Cucinelli for sweaters. Marina Rinaldi and Eileen Fisher (end of season sale!) for shirts and stretchy clothes.
Click to expand...
Thank you! I will definitely invest in tailored pieces, and appreciate the recs. If only I was tall enough to be called Junoesque :smile:
 
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#15
Pursedoctor said:
Sorry for the multiple posts
Click to expand...
If you wish to multiquote,
go to the post or posts you like, and highlight the text
Each time you start to highlight, a box will appear that gives you the option of quote or reply; click quote
whenever you are ready to type your response, scroll down and next to attach files on the left, there is an option to insert quotes. If you click that, the quotes will automatically be inserted into your reply with space to comment after each one
:biggrin:
 
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