Hermes in WSJ!
http://blogs.wsj.com/runway/
Gaultier Reins It In for Hermès Show
If today’s fashion show is a predictor, in the spring of 2008 the
Hermès woman will be sporting crocodile jodhpurs, crocodile riding boots and crocodile turbans fastened to her head with crocodile belts. “Yes, there were a few crocodiles,” said Hermès Chief Executive
Patrick Thomas after the show.
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif]Hermès Spring 2008. (AP photo)
[/FONT]
Hermès, the storied French luxury brand known for its silk scarves and expensive
Kelly and
Birkin handbags in styles that have remained the same for decades, has been expanding its ready-to-wear offerings as a way to better compete with other labels. “We are not a fashion house,” said Mr. Thomas, adding that his three-to-five year plan is to grow the men’s and women’s apparel business, which now accounts for 23% of sales, to about 30%. “Ready-to-wear is one of the ways to reinvent Hermès and rediscover new design.”
The 55-year-old designer
Jean Paul Gaultier — still known as the enfant terrible of French fashion–has been creative director of Hermès since 2004, when he took over from
Martin Margiela. The relationship began in 1999, when Hermès took a stake in Mr. Gaultier’s own eponymous label, known for its extreme designs, like the conical (and comical) bustiers which
Madonna made famous in her “Open Your Heart” video.
Earlier this week, Mr. Gaultier presented a “Pirates of the Caribbean”-themed collection for his own line, with models wielding swords and wearing ammunition belts, bee-keeper screens, and other costumey accessories.
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif]Jean-Paul Gaultier Spring 2008. (AP photo)
[/FONT]
At Hermès, Mr. Gaultier gets to show a more restrained side of his character. At his show tonight, which was held in the gardens outside the Louvre Museum, models strutted the Hermès orange catwalk to Indian music, wearing flowing tunics and luxurious draped one-shoulder gowns. Some carried Birkin bags. A backdrop of an orange and burgundy waterfall was intended to evoke a sunset, Mr. Gaultier explained after the show. The sunset effect was generated by a steady flow of superfine chalk dust. In the central Paris area around the Louvre this evening, it was possible to identify those who had attended the Hermès show by their un-naturally rosy skin tone.
Mr. Gaultier was also one of the few designers this season who used a truly ethnically diverse cast of models on his runway. “I do not believe in one type of beauty,” Mr. Gaultier said. “This is always how I have felt. This is the way the world looks.”