Help with sapphire ring--heat or no heat

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Rockerchic

O.G.
Jun 9, 2006
14,167
4,829
Hi all,
I am in the market for a right hand sapphire ring. I'd like a large emerald or raddiant cut cornflower blue sapphire (or something not too dark) with trapazoid diamonds on the side. I'd like the sapphire to be about 11mm x 9mm or maybe a bit larger.
There is quite a difference between heated sapphires and sapphires with no heat in this size.
What are your thought on heated sapphires? I'd really like this to be an heirloom piece that I can pass on to my daughter someday.
Style would be similar to below but sapphire perhaps a bit lighter in color.
Appreciate any help, especially if there is a sapphire guru on the board. :)
1613320431107.png
 
Hi! I am a huge fan of colored gemstones and have sapphires, rubies, and emeralds. I have had heated sapphires and non-heated. Here are my thoughts...

Heat and oil-treatment (especially oil for Colombian emeralds), matter only if you plan to purchase an exceptional stone for investment purposes, a specimen piece. To me, sapphires are very common and most are heated, so unless you get into the $100K range for the stone, I would not bother. What matters more is country of origin, with Burma or Ceylon sapphires being of higher value. Of course the color matters a lot. I have had a no heat 3.13ct Ceylon sapphire set into a ring. I sold that ring, and the no-heat did not really make a difference. I then purchased a 6.05ct heated Ceylon sapphire, and I had it set into a ring. The color is perfect, and I love this stone and the ring. So for me, without a doubt, sapphires are very common, so I would not pay the premium for a no-heat.

With a colored gemstone... it's not just heat or no heat (oil or no oil), it is the color of the stone and the size of the stone. You can have a 10ct no heat sapphire where the blue is too dark or too light, and it will not be worth much. And in the same vein, you can have a perfect 3ct Ceylon blue no heat sapphire that will also not have high "investment" value as that size is so common (e.g. not rare). Rarity and beauty is what makes a true investment piece, and for me, I am not in that Christie's league.

In colored stones, color is king. So unless this is a true investment piece, I would look for the most beautiful stone in the size you want. If you do plan to spend $100K or more for the stone, then yes, I would get no heat. But here is my other thought on that... if you plan to spend $100K or more for a piece, I would get a branded piece such as Cartier if you want an "investment". You will get less bang for your buck, but if you sell it, you will get more value. I don't think of resell value when buying jewelry. I buy jewelry for me, and when I tire of it, I sell it for whatever I can get... no regrets as I would have already enjoyed it for that long.

My thoughts on heirloom and passing down... that is a nice dream, but often a myth. My jeweler says there is a huge business now for kids who bring in old jewelry they inherited and sell them. My jeweler says kids just want the cash. I say buy the ring for yourself, what you want, and the value of the ring if you pass it down is not the monetary value, but the sentimental value that it was once yours. By the way, I am a jewelry lover, my niece hates jewelry. She would rather have money for "experiences". Sigh.

I have been burned so much on colored gemstones as I truly love rubies, sapphires, and emeralds. I was once hooked on "resale value" but now I see colored gemstones in a different light, as pure enjoyment. In the end, unless your stone and piece is from a brand name such as Cartier, Graff, the stone will be viewed as a a loose gemstone in terms of resale value, nothing more. From my lessons, I now buy the best I can based on what I love.
My recommendation would be to go with heat for a sapphire because they are so common in large sizes. The 11x9 size you want is about 6-7cts is my guess and you will definitely find many options (my 6.05ct Ceylon is an oval, 12x10). If you plan to spend $100K or more, I would get a branded piece for sure. Cartier on 5th has some amazing sapphires, but they are pricey... too pricey to spend on one piece for my blood, but it may not be for you. I am sure you already know this, but be sure to get it certified (I like AGL for colored gemstones) and get country of origin (for sapphires, Burma or Ceylon are king... I prefer the medium cornflower blue of Ceylon).

Just my two cents to share as I've gone through a lot of colored gemstones. I hope this helps.
 
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Hi! I am a huge fan of colored gemstones and have sapphires, rubies, and emeralds. I have had heated sapphires and non-heated. Here are my thoughts...

Heat and oil-treatment (especially oil for Colombian emeralds), matter only if you plan to purchase an exceptional stone for investment purposes, a specimen piece. To me, sapphires are very common and most are heated, so unless you get into the $100K range for the stone, I would not bother. What matters more is country of origin, with Burma or Ceylon sapphires being of higher value. Of course the color matters a lot. I have had a no heat 3.13ct Ceylon sapphire set into a ring. I sold that ring, and the no-heat did not really make a difference. I then purchased a 6.05ct heated Ceylon sapphire, and I had it set into a ring. The color is perfect, and I love this stone and the ring. So for me, without a doubt, sapphires are very common, so I would not pay the premium for a no-heat.

With a colored gemstone... it's not just heat or no heat (oil or no oil), it is the color of the stone and the size of the stone. You can have a 10ct no heat sapphire where the blue is too dark or too light, and it will not be worth much. And in the same vein, you can have a perfect 3ct Ceylon blue no heat sapphire that will also not have high "investment" value as that size is so common (e.g. not rare). Rarity and beauty is what makes a true investment piece, and for me, I am not in that Christie's league.

In colored stones, color is king. So unless this is a true investment piece, I would look for the most beautiful stone in the size you want. If you do plan to spend $100K or more for the stone, then yes, I would get no heat. But here is my other thought on that... if you plan to spend $100K or more for a piece, I would get a branded piece such as Cartier if you want an "investment". You will get less bang for your buck, but if you sell it, you will get more value. I don't think of resell value when buying jewelry. I buy jewelry for me, and when I tire of it, I sell it for whatever I can get... no regrets as I would have already enjoyed it for that long.

My thoughts on heirloom and passing down... that is a nice dream, but often a myth. My jeweler says there is a huge business now for kids who bring in old jewelry they inherited and sell them. My jeweler says kids just want the cash. I say buy the ring for yourself, what you want, and the value of the ring if you pass it down is not the monetary value, but the sentimental value that it was once yours. By the way, I am a jewelry lover, my niece hates jewelry. She would rather have money for "experiences". Sigh.

I have been burned so much on colored gemstones as I truly love rubies, sapphires, and emeralds. I was once hooked on "resale value" but now I see colored gemstones in a different light, as pure enjoyment. In the end, unless your stone and piece is from a brand name such as Cartier, Graff, the stone will be viewed as a a loose gemstone in terms of resale value, nothing more. From my lessons, I now buy the best I can based on what I love.
My recommendation would be to go with heat for a sapphire because they are so common in large sizes. The 11x9 size you want is about 6-7cts is my guess and you will definitely find many options (my 6.05ct Ceylon is an oval, 12x10). If you plan to spend $100K or more, I would get a branded piece for sure. Cartier on 5th has some amazing sapphires, but they are pricey... too pricey to spend on one piece for my blood, but it may not be for you. I am sure you already know this, but be sure to get it certified (I like AGL for colored gemstones) and get country of origin (for sapphires, Burma or Ceylon are king... I prefer the medium cornflower blue of Ceylon).

Just my two cents to share as I've gone through a lot of colored gemstones. I hope this helps.
Thank you so much for your advice. That is just what I needed to hear and makes so much sense.
Do you happen to have any recommendations on websites selling loose sapphires? Also would love to see your ring! I have been looking at colors and know I want a cornflower blue Ceylon.
 
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Thank you so much for your advice. That is just what I needed to hear and makes so much sense.
Do you happen to have any recommendations on websites selling loose sapphires? Also would love to see your ring! I have been looking at colors and know I want a cornflower blue Ceylon.
Hi! Here is an old photo, but you can get an idea of size. It's 6.05ct, 12x10, so your 11x9 emerald will be of similar size. The setting though will greatly affect the look of the ring. I prefer bold settings (my setting is JB Star set in platinum), but it seems you prefer the three-stone ring look.

On shape, are you sure you want an emerald cut sapphire? I had one (I've gone through four sapphires sigh, but each one gets bigger... yippee!), and the emerald was my least favorite cut. It just didn't have life to it because it was step cut. It always looked sleepy. Granted, that was also my darkest sapphire. I am only asking so you can think about it. It's all preference of course, so if you love emerald cut, go for it.

Speaking of color and shape, of my four sapphires... I've had two ovals, one round, and one emerald cut. My favorite is the oval cut. I would like a cushion cut stone one day, but sometimes with colored stones, you don't get to choose the stone, the stones chooses you. On color, of my four sapphires, my first was too light, my second too dark, my third (the 3.15ct) was again too light, and now my fourth and last... to me, it's perfect. Color is completely preference and don't let anyone tell you otherwise to convince you to like something. I fell into that trap too with people telling me what is the perfect color. Color is 100% subjective, and because these are natural stones, every stone will be slightly different different in hue/tone. My advice is to look at many sapphires so you know exactly what you like/don’t like. Picking a stone then will come easy to you.

On buying loose stones... I don't buy online as I need to see the stone. I tried it once and said forget it. Too much drama picking out a color on a computer screen. I have seen a lot of stones in real life by now, so I know what I like, and I am the type that will make a decision in less than 10 seconds if a stone speaks to me. Hence mailing stones back and forth was not going to work for me, so unfortunately, I cannot recommend an online dealer.

I go to the Tucson Gem show to buy my loose stones. I would definitely recommend it... super super fun. They cancelled it this year due to COVID (it's usually in February), and there is talk of a much smaller version April 2021 to help the dealers and buyers. I would suggest going next year, Feb 2022 if you are not in a rush. If you are not aware, the Tucson Gem show consists of many shows where the gem and jewelry trade get together once a year. Many jewelry store owners stock up their supplies for the year. There are dealers from around the world. There are trade-only shows, but there are also many shows where it's open to the public.

Great prices and lots of choices at these shows. There are lots of loose stones, and there is also set jewelry. To me, the set jewelry is mall jewelry stuff (think what you would see at a local jewelry store and they probably bought it from Tucson), so I would stay away from set jewelry and go for the loose stone. I am sure you can find a large set sapphire ring, but you mentioned heirloom jewelry, so I am assuming more high end.

Plus, I think you will really have fun picking the stone and creating your ring. It will be your special ring. Your jeweler can help you create exactly what you want. I recently purchased a Colombian emerald in Tucson and worked with my jeweler to create a ring. It was a medium green which is my favorite shade for an emerald (not the dark green). I like bold rings, and my husband also got into designing it. I think it turned out great, and my husband loved the experience. I think you will love designing your ring too!

By the way, if you are interested in Colombian emeralds, I can help with a dealer. My Colombian emerald dealer awesome. He is based in Antwerp, but he goes direct to Colombia to purchase his stones and Tucson is one od the gem shows he attends. He's been in the business for over 30 years, very trustworthy and great prices. He only sells emeralds though, not sapphires.

I hope this helps. Please share photos! I am sure your ring will be gorgeous.
 

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Found another view in daylight. You can see how the stone looks different in different light so be sure to also go outside and look at your stone, next to your skin.
@BigAkoya You are a rockstar!! thank you for taking the time and for giving me so much information. Your ring is gorgeous! I am slowly getting into colored gems. The sapphire will be my first but I would love to add an emerald someday. Would so appreciate if you could pass on the info of your emerald dealer. xoxo
 
Hi! I am a huge fan of colored gemstones and have sapphires, rubies, and emeralds. I have had heated sapphires and non-heated. Here are my thoughts...

Heat and oil-treatment (especially oil for Colombian emeralds), matter only if you plan to purchase an exceptional stone for investment purposes, a specimen piece. To me, sapphires are very common and most are heated, so unless you get into the $100K range for the stone, I would not bother. What matters more is country of origin, with Burma or Ceylon sapphires being of higher value. Of course the color matters a lot. I have had a no heat 3.13ct Ceylon sapphire set into a ring. I sold that ring, and the no-heat did not really make a difference. I then purchased a 6.05ct heated Ceylon sapphire, and I had it set into a ring. The color is perfect, and I love this stone and the ring. So for me, without a doubt, sapphires are very common, so I would not pay the premium for a no-heat.

With a colored gemstone... it's not just heat or no heat (oil or no oil), it is the color of the stone and the size of the stone. You can have a 10ct no heat sapphire where the blue is too dark or too light, and it will not be worth much. And in the same vein, you can have a perfect 3ct Ceylon blue no heat sapphire that will also not have high "investment" value as that size is so common (e.g. not rare). Rarity and beauty is what makes a true investment piece, and for me, I am not in that Christie's league.

In colored stones, color is king. So unless this is a true investment piece, I would look for the most beautiful stone in the size you want. If you do plan to spend $100K or more for the stone, then yes, I would get no heat. But here is my other thought on that... if you plan to spend $100K or more for a piece, I would get a branded piece such as Cartier if you want an "investment". You will get less bang for your buck, but if you sell it, you will get more value. I don't think of resell value when buying jewelry. I buy jewelry for me, and when I tire of it, I sell it for whatever I can get... no regrets as I would have already enjoyed it for that long.

My thoughts on heirloom and passing down... that is a nice dream, but often a myth. My jeweler says there is a huge business now for kids who bring in old jewelry they inherited and sell them. My jeweler says kids just want the cash. I say buy the ring for yourself, what you want, and the value of the ring if you pass it down is not the monetary value, but the sentimental value that it was once yours. By the way, I am a jewelry lover, my niece hates jewelry. She would rather have money for "experiences". Sigh.

I have been burned so much on colored gemstones as I truly love rubies, sapphires, and emeralds. I was once hooked on "resale value" but now I see colored gemstones in a different light, as pure enjoyment. In the end, unless your stone and piece is from a brand name such as Cartier, Graff, the stone will be viewed as a a loose gemstone in terms of resale value, nothing more. From my lessons, I now buy the best I can based on what I love.
My recommendation would be to go with heat for a sapphire because they are so common in large sizes. The 11x9 size you want is about 6-7cts is my guess and you will definitely find many options (my 6.05ct Ceylon is an oval, 12x10). If you plan to spend $100K or more, I would get a branded piece for sure. Cartier on 5th has some amazing sapphires, but they are pricey... too pricey to spend on one piece for my blood, but it may not be for you. I am sure you already know this, but be sure to get it certified (I like AGL for colored gemstones) and get country of origin (for sapphires, Burma or Ceylon are king... I prefer the medium cornflower blue of Ceylon).

Just my two cents to share as I've gone through a lot of colored gemstones. I hope this helps.
Excellent advice!
 
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Hi! You are welcome, and I'm glad you found it helpful. Now you have me excited to go to the next Tucson Gem show! I love jewelry, including branded pieces such as VCA, Tiffany, Mikimoto, but my true love is colored gemstones. I think you will love them too.

To share my excitement... I thought I would share with you some photos from a Tucson Gem show so you can visualize it better...
In a few photos, this is the story of my recent emerald ring... from looking at the gem booths, to trying on (and skipping) a few emerald rings (I tried them to compare color and quality... too dark and dull), to ring design at my local jeweler, to the finished piece. All you need to do is swap out the emerald for a blue sapphire in your mind, and the process would be similar for a sapphire ring.

Anyway, if you decide to go, you will see many many different colored gemstones in all different sizes and price points, and I think you will have a lot of fun. I hope you enjoy these photos and that it helps to see a glimpse of a gem tradeshow. I will PM you my emerald dealer's info. He is super nice and has stones in all sizes. It was fun chatting with you and good luck!
B5D8F61E-FEF8-40DF-A153-F92BCDF31677.png
 
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Hi! You are welcome, and I'm glad you found it helpful. Now you have me excited to go to the next Tucson Gem show! I love jewelry, including branded pieces such as VCA, Tiffany, Mikimoto, but my true love is colored gemstones. I think you will love them too.

To share my excitement... I thought I would share with you some photos from a Tucson Gem show so you can visualize it better...
In a few photos, this is the story of my recent emerald ring... from looking at the gem booths, to trying on (and skipping) a few emerald rings (I tried them to compare color and quality... too dark and dull), to ring design at my local jeweler, to the finished piece. All you need to do is swap out the emerald for a blue sapphire in your mind, and the process would be similar for a sapphire ring.

Anyway, if you decide to go, you will see many many different colored gemstones in all different sizes and price points, and I think you will have a lot of fun. I hope you enjoy these photos and that it helps to see a glimpse of a gem tradeshow. I will PM you my emerald dealer's info. He is super nice and has stones in all sizes. It was fun chatting with you and good luck!
I would love to go to a show! That looks amazing. That emerald ring is a show stopper! ❤️❤️
 
Hi all,
I am in the market for a right hand sapphire ring. I'd like a large emerald or raddiant cut cornflower blue sapphire (or something not too dark) with trapazoid diamonds on the side. I'd like the sapphire to be about 11mm x 9mm or maybe a bit larger.
There is quite a difference between heated sapphires and sapphires with no heat in this size.
What are your thought on heated sapphires? I'd really like this to be an heirloom piece that I can pass on to my daughter someday.
Style would be similar to below but sapphire perhaps a bit lighter in color.
Appreciate any help, especially if there is a sapphire guru on the board. :smile:
View attachment 4990416

Hello Rockerchic, exciting project, I'd also love a sapphire ring! For me it's currently a someday project, but have pondered a bit. :smile: BigAkoya has provided so much interesting info (thank you @BigAkoya, so helpful for me, too!). My favorite sapphire shape is cushion cut. When and if I pursue, I think I'd likely work with Oscar Heyman. Their stones and carftsmanship are exceptional. Just a thought if you'd like the sapphire purchase and ring fabrication to be within the same house. They are still a family owned business. I spoke with them about a year ago, and they are lovely to deal with.

 
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Hello Rockerchic, exciting project, I'd also love a sapphire ring! For me it's currently a someday project, but have pondered a bit. :smile: BigAkoya has provided so much interesting info (thank you @BigAkoya, so helpful for me, too!). My favorite sapphire shape is cushion cut. When and if I pursue, I think I'd likely work with Oscar Heyman. Their stones and carftsmanship are exceptional. Just a thought if you'd like the sapphire purchase and ring fabrication to be within the same house. They are still a family owned business. I spoke with them about a year ago, and they are lovely to deal with.

I am a big Oscar Heyman fan and was actually just searching on the web looking at his designs. I love how he uses colored stones!
 
I am a big Oscar Heyman fan and was actually just searching on the web looking at his designs. I love how he uses colored stones!

I know, their pieces are so beautiful! :love: I love that the gorgeous gems are the generally the highlight, with the settings, although beautifully crafted, are mostly structural. They were more than willing to chat with me, answer questions, and offered to send pieces to my local authorized jeweler for me to see, as they don't sell directly. Will you keep us updated? I'd love to hear what path you take, and of course, would love to see the final piece! :flowers:
 
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My thoughts on heirloom and passing down... that is a nice dream, but often a myth. My jeweler says there is a huge business now for kids who bring in old jewelry they inherited and sell them. My jeweler says kids just want the cash. I say buy the ring for yourself, what you want, and the value of the ring if you pass it down is not the monetary value, but the sentimental value that it was once yours. By the way, I am a jewelry lover, my niece hates jewelry. She would rather have money for "experiences". Sigh.

I'm glad you mentioned this. Some women attempt to rationalize the purchase of an expensive piece of jewelry by saying it will be become a family heirloom. They are not taking into consideration that so much of jewelry is dictated by the whims of fashion and that the setting will likely be outdated by the time the piece is passed along or it just might not suit the family member's taste.
 
I know, their pieces are so beautiful! :love: I love that the gorgeous gems are the generally the highlight, with the settings, although beautifully crafted, are mostly structural. They were more than willing to chat with me, answer questions, and offered to send pieces to my local authorized jeweler for me to see, as they don't sell directly. Will you keep us updated? I'd love to hear what path you take, and of course, would love to see the final piece! :flowers:
I will definitely keep you up to date. I really appreciate everyone's input and advice!
 
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