Help me pick a good starter watch?

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L

lilian

O.G.
Jan 3, 2006
1,207
12
#1
Hi,

I'm graduating from grad school very soon and, as a grad gift, my family wants to buy me a luxury watch. Normally, I wouldn't specify the exact one that I want, but they are so excited about it and want it to be a present that I'll have and use for years. Since neither of us know anything about watches, I wanted to do a lot of research to make sure that they get something worthwhile (I would feel bad if they weren't spending that much money on a good quality piece in their price range and just blindly buying the "prettiest" thing, if that makes any sense).

Anyway, I'm 24 right now and I'm going to be in a relatively conservative profession and I'm not likely to buy other watches for at least another ten years, so I want something that is both timeless and not super-flashy. I also don't feel comfortable asking them to buy anything that is significantly more that 3-5k (which is already a lot, but they insist). I've been looking at some Cartier watches (I really like the Santos de Cartier and the Tank Francaise), but only because that, Rolex, and Hermes are the only fine watchmakers I know. What piece would you recommend if you needed something that fit these requirements? Is there anything I should know about how to distinguish good/bad watches?

Thanks for your help.
 
#2
Firstly, congratulations on your achievement and what a lovely gesture from your family to mark this.

I think your ideas of a Cartier Santos or Tank Française are both good ones. I have a Santos and two Tanks and they are classic, stylish but not fussy and won't go out of fashion which is important in this situation.

Some pictures of Santos

Some pictures of Tanks

My first one was a small yellow gold quartz Tank Louis - that was really a "starter". Then I got a classic steel/gold Santos automatic at auction, which I love: I like the automatic movement which needs no battery or winding, and it can be worn with either yellow gold or white metals and is a good way of linking if you want to wear gold and silver items together. Then recently we were lucky enough to find a steel Tank Basculante Millennium LE, also at Christies, which is actually a man's but is very slim and fits me on the tightest hole of the strap (which is a traditional strap not the normal Cartier dépliant clasp strap). This has a traditional wind-up movement and "flips" but from top to bottom (not side to side as a JLC Reverso does).

One thing I will say is that a leather strap is more versatile because it can be adjusted so easily with no links to remove. My metal bracelet watches fit more loosely in the winter when my wrist is cold. But this doesn't stop me loving the look of metal bracelets!
 
#3
The first "nice" watch I received is still my favorite- I got a Philip Stein from the Signature collection. It isn't as high end as some, but I love it just the same.
 
#5
I would go either with rolex or cartier. I have a rolex perpetual and a tank francaise. I've had the rolex for many years and completely recommend it both in terms of style (classic watch) and durability (used to wear it all the time). I've had the tank for about a month and I'm VERY happy with it:cloud9: It has more of a jewelry feel to it. The only con is that it;s not waterproof. But I love how elegant it looks.
Good luck with your choice and congratulations!
 
#7
Thanks everyone for both the suggestions and for the congrats.

I'm going to go back sometime in the next few days to try on the Tank again, but I was wondering if there is some reason aside from personal preference that you all recommend the Tank over the Santos? Is the Santos more gimmicky/less classic? I really liked the look of the tiny screws on it, but I can see how that can make it less classic...

I'm also going to go try the Rolex Perpetual because of Akoko's suggestion.

The only other question I had after reading everyone's answers was whether I should completely rule out Hermes watches. I can see how they are not as appropriate for this type of occasion, but just wanted to get some other opinions.
 
#9
lilian said:
The only other question I had after reading everyone's answers was whether I should completely rule out Hermes watches. I can see how they are not as appropriate for this type of occasion, but just wanted to get some other opinions.
Click to expand...

As much as I adore Hermès leather goods I would absolutely rule them out for this occasion. They are not a watch manufacturer, so I consider them a fashion watch. Very pretty (I do own them) but not a watch-makers watch KWIM?

Go with either of the Cartiers or a Rolex. Whichever you like on your arm. Try a few, you will know when you find it. This is a watch you will keep forever.

Congrats on your graduation.
 
#11
I have both the Cartier Tank and Hermes Hour watch. I consider the H watch to be more of a fashion watch, not a serious time piece.
I'd also choose something with a metal band in this case.
The Santos is gorgeous! By all means, get that one if it suits your personal style more than the Tank.
When I tried Rolex models on, they were not as comfortable on my wrist as the Cartier pieces.
I also received an Omega Constellation for a graduation a long time ago. Wore it to death before I got the Cartier. Great watch, but when I got the Tank, it just did not compare and I let it go.
 
#12
Another thing to remember is that while you may get a watch you love--in wearing it in business, it sends a message, like everything else, so pick a brand that will really work for you in both social and work settings as far as sending a message. I really love my JLC Reverso Duetto, but as Swanky says, check out Omega and Patek Phillipe as well. Congratulations!
 
#14
I have a Cartier Santos Demoiselle that I love. I also have an Omega watch which is great too. Tag watches are also really great. Just go and have fun trying on different types of watches and buy whichever you love on your wrist! Have fun shopping and post pictures when you have your watch!
 
#15
Thanks everyone! Right now I'm leaning towards the Santos (after trying them on again), but will have to check out the Rolex and Omegas as well. Will definitely post pics once I decide!

In terms of what saligator said: That's actually definitely something I've been thinking of and confused about as I've been looking around. I was initially really resistant to the idea for that reason. I'm going to be working in the legal field, which is generally pretty conservative. At the same time, I'm also on the younger side of the age group for my profession (most people graduating with me are about 2-4 years older than me). At least during schools and at summer jobs, I did feel like I generally had to prove that I was mature and responsible as others in the same position, and I have no reason to think it wouldn't be that way for the first few years of me working. I'm cognizant of the fact that my age + something that is very eye-catching might send the wrong message (i.e. spoiled brat, etc). At the same time, I'm not entirely clear on what message the ones I'm looking at necessarily send. If I'm looking at the Santos, Tank, Rolexes, or Omegas in silver/steel only (I don't like gold), do I risk sending the wrong message? Sorry if this is really basic stuff, but I really need someone to just spell this out for me!
 
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