Hi I am looking to buy my diamond it's a big investment so I don't want to make the wrong choice . Please advice if it looks like a good diamond 
Asking the expert on advice on a heart shape diamond
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For fancies, photos are required. Those are not buy-on-paper stones. Especially things like hearts, ovals, pears. You just cannot buy those sight unseen. Who is the seller? Is it an online seller with good images? Blue Nile is one I tend to avoid for fancies simply bec they don't offer photos of all their inventory and don't offer ASET and IS images. ASET and IdealScope images will help identify light return.
Here are a couple nice looking hearts in that size range (unsure of your budget):
http://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/heart-shaped/2.01-carat-g-color-vvs2-clarity-sku-302790
http://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/heart-shaped/2.45-carat-g-color-vvs1-clarity-sku-302777
http://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/heart-shaped/2.01-carat-g-color-vvs2-clarity-sku-302790
http://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/heart-shaped/2.45-carat-g-color-vvs1-clarity-sku-302777
Thanks ame how do u read those aset images . The 2nd one has a lot of red what's the different between the first image and the second one ? Thank you for explaining 
Sure thing. Bare with me, this is long and wordy.
One is an ASET (the one with a lot of green) and the other is an Idealscope (red, white and black only) .
The ASET is a tool developed by AGS to gauge light return. It reflects back three different colors and the way the aset is taken is head on. So in this head on image, ideally you want a lot of red, a little blue, and minimal green. Fancies will be a little different than an RB, where Red is the majority of the "direct light" coming into the stone. So the light from the sun, or the light of the room, that's the primary source of light coming into the stone. Blue light is what is called "obscured light." That's the light that your head is blocking, if you will. So if the sun is beating down on the stone and you stick your head in the way, you're blocking the direct light. When you TILT the stone though, that is what causes contrast within the stone. So basically if you see all those hearts and arrows images of a stone, the arrows often are blue in an ASET. In a good stone anyway. Green is the light reflected in from sources like walls.
When you see black or white on an aset that is usually considered leakage. As in light not being reflected out. It's often a sign of poor cutting when it's not at a VERY minimum. Even in the best cut stones you will often have a little leakage, typically on the outer edge or on the outer tips of the star facets. It's a result of where the faceting meets.
Overall RED should be the very majority (in all shapes), and some BLUE is going to be necessary (in rounds specifically) You want very little green (period). The distribution of the three colors is vital. White/black should be minimal. So let's say 80% red, 15% blue, 4% green and 1% white/black would be wonderful.
With fancies it doesn't work AS well as that breakdown. But ultimately you are aiming for the majority of red in a fancy cut's ASET. You're going to have more green than blue in most fancies. I would say you want at LEAST 60-70% red. The breakdown of blue and green is going to vary on fancies though.
The other one that's all red is an IdealScope. That one is also a light return tool and works with black, red and white. Ideally you want a ton of red on that too, less black and very little white. Ideally no white. The red is the direct light, the black is obscured light (so red is the same as the aset, the black is like the blue in an aset, ie your head, and contrast when you move the stone).
This stone has a very strange patterning in the cut, and it's showing on that idealscope unless their scope isn't lined up right. The black obscured light is not symmetrical, which is not ideal. The ASET is also WAY green vs way red.
I am also concerned that the inclusions are going to be eye-visible based on their type, location and size.
One is an ASET (the one with a lot of green) and the other is an Idealscope (red, white and black only) .
The ASET is a tool developed by AGS to gauge light return. It reflects back three different colors and the way the aset is taken is head on. So in this head on image, ideally you want a lot of red, a little blue, and minimal green. Fancies will be a little different than an RB, where Red is the majority of the "direct light" coming into the stone. So the light from the sun, or the light of the room, that's the primary source of light coming into the stone. Blue light is what is called "obscured light." That's the light that your head is blocking, if you will. So if the sun is beating down on the stone and you stick your head in the way, you're blocking the direct light. When you TILT the stone though, that is what causes contrast within the stone. So basically if you see all those hearts and arrows images of a stone, the arrows often are blue in an ASET. In a good stone anyway. Green is the light reflected in from sources like walls.
When you see black or white on an aset that is usually considered leakage. As in light not being reflected out. It's often a sign of poor cutting when it's not at a VERY minimum. Even in the best cut stones you will often have a little leakage, typically on the outer edge or on the outer tips of the star facets. It's a result of where the faceting meets.
Overall RED should be the very majority (in all shapes), and some BLUE is going to be necessary (in rounds specifically) You want very little green (period). The distribution of the three colors is vital. White/black should be minimal. So let's say 80% red, 15% blue, 4% green and 1% white/black would be wonderful.
With fancies it doesn't work AS well as that breakdown. But ultimately you are aiming for the majority of red in a fancy cut's ASET. You're going to have more green than blue in most fancies. I would say you want at LEAST 60-70% red. The breakdown of blue and green is going to vary on fancies though.
The other one that's all red is an IdealScope. That one is also a light return tool and works with black, red and white. Ideally you want a ton of red on that too, less black and very little white. Ideally no white. The red is the direct light, the black is obscured light (so red is the same as the aset, the black is like the blue in an aset, ie your head, and contrast when you move the stone).
This stone has a very strange patterning in the cut, and it's showing on that idealscope unless their scope isn't lined up right. The black obscured light is not symmetrical, which is not ideal. The ASET is also WAY green vs way red.
I am also concerned that the inclusions are going to be eye-visible based on their type, location and size.
Oh my I just learn so much . Thank you so much I already ask white flash to look for an other diamond for me . When I have the new images I sure will post then here and ask for your help again