Perfume Chat Thread

[JenJBS]

Thought it might be nice to have a Thread for us perfume lovers to chat about our favorite scents. To get us started...
What are you favorite types of perfumes? For me it's gourmands, with florals second.
Any favorite perfume design houses, or any you think are overrated? Or do you care more about the Nose who created it, than the design house that released it? So far I'm liking Kilian, Kyse, Montale, and Nest. I haven't found a Tom Ford fragrance I like even a little, and don't understand the hype.

 

[papertiger]

This is such a great idea!

I haven't any TF fragrances either so I can't help you .

I usually like Guerlain but yesterday I wore Mon Guerlain (sample) - and all I got was 'hairspray' (probably Elnett since it's the one my mother used and I don't use any).

I only like Diaghilev and Oligarch from Roja Dove but I can't buy/display a scent with the name 'Oligarch', it's demeaning and reductive to Russians. Who knew perfume could be political?

My favourite contemporary fragrance atm is Hermes Gallop. I love the scent and the packaging (my lather cord is Vert Bambou). This was one of the first fragrances by Nagel for H but I like previous noses too, so maybe H chooses their noses well.

I care about the nose and the ingredients the most rather than the House. I'm also conscious that the fragrances that are launched initially are not always the same years on through bottom-line-economics and legislation. So sometimes I'll have to drop a 'wardrobe' fragrance because it no longer smells the same.

I have 2 questions:

I was thinking yesterday about how women and men are quite sensitive to how their fragrance is perceived. I wear fragrances introduced as male or female but I've noticed people are not as gender fluid as the media would have us believe, and strikingly that's true of young people. I also perceive people to date others by the fragrance that they wear. I don't know what that says about me since I wear some that were introduced a century ago like Habanita du Molinard, I guess that makes me one of the undead

1. Do you wear the 'opposite' sex's fragrances sometimes? If so which and why?

2. Would you wear a fragrance if it launched more than 10 years ago and wasn't considered a 'classic'?

 

[Love Of My Life]

Yes this is nice thread
I still have a handful of favorite scents especially from JAR, Roja Dove, Arpege, Ormaie, Patou
& Frederic Malle. The scents that were done in the 40's were captivating, classic & timeless
JOY, FRACAS, MY SIN, SHALIMAR, CHANEL & others have a long following even passed on to other
generations.
I can remember my mother's & grandmother's vanity tables & lingerie draw full of their scents as well
as their "hankies"...
TF is commercial to me & I don't care for the names he uses . They might have been considered
evocative or provocative but that doesn't captivate me
I tend to look for that off beat or unexpected scent . As long as I am happy with the scent
the perception of what someone else might think doesn't influence me in my choices.
I also do love layering other body products with my scents & I love nothing more than getting
into bed with a favorite scent that lingers after a shower. I sometimes spray my "pillows" & have
a compatible candle burning
Scent sets the tone & the mood for your day, IMO

 

[JenJBS]

This is such a great idea!

I haven't any TF fragrances either so I can't help you .

I usually like Guerlain but yesterday I wore Mon Guerlain (sample) - and all I got was 'hairspray' (probably Elnett since it's the one my mother used and I don't use any).

I only like Diaghilev and Oligarch from Roja Dove but I can't buy/display a scent with the name 'Oligarch', it's demeaning and reductive to Russians. Who knew perfume could be political?

My favourite contemporary fragrance atm is Hermes Gallop. I love the scent and the packaging (my lather cord is Vert Bambou). This was one of the first fragrances by Nagel for H but I like previous noses too, so maybe H chooses their noses well.

I care about the nose and the ingredients the most rather than the House. I'm also conscious that the fragrances that are launched initially are not always the same years on through bottom-line-economics and legislation. So sometimes I'll have to drop a 'wardrobe' fragrance because it no longer smells the same.

I have 2 questions:

I was thinking yesterday about how women and men are quite sensitive to how their fragrance is perceived. I wear fragrances introduced as male or female but I've noticed people are not as gender fluid as the media would have us believe, and strikingly that's true of young people. I also perceive people to date others by the fragrance that they wear. I don't know what that says about me since I wear some that were introduced a century ago like Habanita du Molinard, I guess that makes me one of the undead

1. Do you wear the 'opposite' sex's fragrances sometimes? If so which and why?

2. Would you wear a fragrance if it launched more than 10 years ago and wasn't considered a 'classic'?

1) I haven't so far. I have a uni ex perfume (Orange Sanguine by Atelier Cologne), and say my raspberry scent could also qualify as uni ex, but that's as close as I've gotten. There are so many women's fragrances I want to at least sample, that I feel no need to open up a whole 'nother world of scents...

2) It would depend on how recognizable the scent was. If it was from independent house, and chances are few - if any - would recognize it, then I'd wear it without a second thought. If it had been some blockbuster perfume that most people would recognize, I'd be hesitant to wear it in public, and probably just enjoy it at home.

 

[JenJBS]

Yes this is nice thread
I still have a handful of favorite scents especially from JAR, Roja Dove, Arpege, Ormaie, Patou
& Frederic Malle. The scents that were done in the 40's were captivating, classic & timeless
JOY, FRACAS, MY SIN, SHALIMAR, CHANEL & others have a long following even passed on to other
generations.
I can remember my mother's & grandmother's vanity tables & lingerie draw full of their scents as well
as their "hankies"...
TF is commercial to me & I don't care for the names he uses . They might have been considered
evocative or provocative but that doesn't captivate me
I tend to look for that off beat or unexpected scent . As long as I am happy with the scent
the perception of what someone else might think doesn't influence me in my choices.
I also do love layering other body products with my scents & I love nothing more than getting
into bed with a favorite scent that lingers after a shower. I sometimes spray my "pillows" & have
a compatible candle burning
Scent sets the tone & the mood for your day, IMO

Such classic scents! Very well said! I love having a beautiful scent as I'm going to sleep, and agree it really can set your mood for the day.

 

[Purses & Perfumes]

Very nice topic, JenJBS. I currently have a large collection of perfumes and rotate a fair amount, but initially, my collection was quite small. My first full bottle was Shalimar EDC, which was a gift. I also had some mini perfume bottles around that time.

I have much-loved perfumes from a variety of perfume houses, but Guerlain and Chanel rank high among my favorites because they've made some perfumes that are big loves for me like Chanel No. 19, Shalimar and Vol de Nuit. I also love many scents from Caron, Dior, Hermes and Cartier, and Frederic Malle is probably my favorite niche house. I love the classics of perfumery, as well as well-made newer releases.

For me, what is important is how the perfume makes me feel. A lovely scent can really elevate your day and bring so much pleasure. I love catching sudden whiffs of my fragrance as I am going about my day. A beautiful perfume enriches my day in a way that I cannot easily explain.

I am always curious about sniffing new scents while at the same time ensuring that I use my current collection with some regularity so for me, this can sometimes be a bit of a balancing act. Complex florals, chypres, floral aldehydes, powdery, soapy scents, woody (particularly sandalwood), spices and amber -- these are the ones I usually reach for often.

@papertiger, there are still many women's perfumes that I haven't tried yet, so I am focusing on those. I do have some fragrances that are classified as unisex.
I would certainly wear a fragrance that was launched 10 years ago. As long as I like how it smells, the year of the launch is not a concern for me.

 

[JenJBS]

Very nice topic, JenJBS. I currently have a large collection of perfumes and rotate a fair amount, but initially, my collection was quite small. My first full bottle was Shalimar EDC, which was a gift. I also had some mini perfume bottles around that time.

I have much-loved perfumes from a variety of perfume houses, but Guerlain and Chanel rank high among my favorites because they've made some perfumes that are big loves for me like Chanel No. 19, Shalimar and Vol de Nuit. I also love many scents from Caron, Dior, Hermes and Cartier, and Frederic Malle is probably my favorite niche house. I love the classics of perfumery, as well as well-made newer releases.

For me, what is important is how the perfume makes me feel. A lovely scent can really elevate your day and bring so much pleasure. I love catching sudden whiffs of my fragrance as I am going about my day. A beautiful perfume enriches my day in a way that I cannot easily explain.

I am always curious about sniffing new scents while at the same time ensuring that I use my current collection with some regularity so for me, this can sometimes be a bit of a balancing act. Complex florals, chypres, floral aldehydes, powdery, soapy scents, woody (particularly sandalwood), spices and amber -- these are the ones I usually reach for often.

@papertiger, there are still many women's perfumes that I haven't tried yet, so I am focusing on those. I do have some fragrances that are classified as unisex.
I would certainly wear a fragrance that was launched 10 years ago. As long as I like how it smells, the year of the launch is not a concern for me.

I've heard good things about Frederic Malle, and will have to try some of his scents.

Have to smelled the new Chanel Coco Mademoiselle L'Eau Privee? It's high on my perfume wish list.

 

[Purses & Perfumes]

I've heard good things about Frederic Malle, and will have to try some of his scents.

Have to smelled the new Chanel Coco Mademoiselle L'Eau Privee? It's high on my perfume wish list.

I love several of the Frederic Malle perfumes. I haven't tried Coco Mademoiselle L'Eau Privee and am curious to check it out. What do you think of it? I actually have Coco Mademoiselle EDT (was a gift) but I just don't wear it that often. I liked the Intense version but unfortunately, it gave me a headache.

Oh, and speaking of Tom Ford, the only one that I clicked with was Shanghai Lily. I found a sample of it when I was travelling over a year ago, and enjoyed it and bought a bottle after I heard it was being discontinued.

 

[JenJBS]

I love several of the Frederic Malle perfumes. I haven't tried Coco Mademoiselle L'Eau Privee and am curious to check it out. What do you think of it? I actually have Coco Mademoiselle EDT (was a gift) but I just don't wear it that often. I liked the Intense version but unfortunately, it gave me a headache.

Oh, and speaking of Tom Ford, the only one that I clicked with was Shanghai Lily. I found a sample of it when I was travelling over a year ago, and enjoyed it and bought a bottle after I heard it was being discontinued.

Glad you got a bottle of the Shanghai Lily before it was discontinued.

Sorry about the perfume giving you a headache.

I would say L'Eau Privee is a very 'safe' perfume. It's soft sillage means it won't be overwhelming - and hopefully won't give you headache. It's really lovely, and there are no notes likely to cause any strong reaction from anyone near you smelling it. I think it would be great for a job interview, church, meeting an important new client, meeting the SO's family, a funeral, etc. I like to take a long shower when I get home from work to help relax. I plan on enjoying this scent afterward on a quiet evening in, with it fading as I eventually get ready for bed.
⁝

 

[880]

@JenJBS, thank you for starting this thread! It took me a while to post bc I was thinking of what to write . For many years, FM released comprehensive coffret collections that allowed generous sampling.
Favorite: my favorites are all pre IFRA or discontinued. My go to house is FM; Guerlain or Caron, preferably extrait. I used to hate rose scents until I received from my Caron SA a tiny bit of Or et Noir
1. Favorite desert island fragrance that I have stockpiled : FM Fleur de Cassie and voleur de roses.
Favorite fragrance (easy to wear): FM Une Rose; POAL; Dans Des Bras; Eau d Hiver; amouage men’s coffret, like lyric man.
Favorite fragrance house: vintage Guerlain, esp. shalimar (vintage disc EDC); chamade, Parure, VdN extrait only
Favorite fragrance that I missed out on: Caron Or et Noir
Favorite vintage fragrance that I buy at inflated prices and hoard: floris Malmaison and Caron original 1950s Poivre extrait.
favorite fragrance that somehow has turned on my skin chemistry after years of wear: Caron extrait alpona

Overrated: I have many Serge Lutens bell jars but have decided after many years that they aren’t really me. (Though I will wear shiesedo feminite de bois. (I do think Nombre Noire is overrated, but I only have a decant).
I don’t care for Hermes fragrance though I will sometimes wear l’orange vert or vetiver tonka.
I also think le Labo is somewhat overrated, but I still occasionally try to find one that works.
Many dark roses are overpriced and overly sweet including almost all from Maison Kurdjian (spelling). I don’t generally care for l’artesan, except for the original almirenz Voleur des roses which I adore

Underrated: though I strongly prefer French perfume to Italian, I used to wear fragrances from etro.

Gendered fragrance: tow of my favorite men’s fragrances : the original Karl Lagerfeld for men and the original Chanel egoiste and the discontinued creed that everyone thought was overrated; the one that smelt like pineapple aventus.

Popular fragrances that do not work on me (ones that turn to powder)
Molinard de molinard (in the gorgeous black Lalique bottle) and habanita. L’ heure blue ( maybe it’s the violet), and etro heliotrope. I adore vintage charade extrait, but it does smell dusty on me. I vacillate re andy tauers fragrances like phi Une rose du Kandahar (Andy Tauer) I used to wear FM Musc Ravageur by roucel; I think he and Dominique ro pion are geniuses, but the fragrances don’t always work.

In the summer (although many citrus ones turn candied on me) I like the cheap 4711 or the Guerlain grapefruit one. Or vintage chanel EDC 19 or cristalle.

My biggest regret is when JAR was at Bergdorfs years ago, that I did not buy some of the scents. (DH didn’t like them, and I balked at the price)

Re tom Ford: I positively detest the neroli one (it’s horrendous on my skin chemistry). But, I think it’s simply Estée Lauder’s lux, somewhat generic, and overpriced line. I did like old Estée Lauder in theory. And Estée Lauder’s old beach scent was nice.

I love the original l’ arte d gucci ( but not the EdT which is too green) and the old narciso Rodriguez oil.

P.s. I love orange sanguine.
I wish I liked or could understand the original diorella or, in a similar vein, FM parfum de terese (I sadly have a full bottle of this one
I have never tried the original vintage bel ami or Dior Eau sauvage. The current interactions of sauvage smell like department store chemicals to me.
Scent that I was surprised I like: those containing oud (which in recent years seems like half the world of scent)
Scent I wish I liked but don’t: anything with saffron or myrrh
Scent I was embarrassed I liked but never wore: flowerbomb, though @papertiger, most fragrances I wear were launched over ten years ago and are not considered classics.

 

[JenJBS]

@JenJBS, thank you for starting this thread! It took me a while to post bc I was thinking of what to write . For many years, FM released comprehensive coffret collections that allowed generous sampling.
Favorite: my favorites are all pre IFRA or discontinued. My go to house is FM; Guerlain or Caron, preferably extrait. I used to hate rose scents until I received from my Caron SA a tiny bit of Or et Noir
1. Favorite desert island fragrance that I have in large stock : FM Fleur de Cassie and voleur de roses.
Favorite fragrance (easy to wear): FM Une Rose; POAL; Dans Des Bras; Eau d Hiver; amouage men’s coffret, like lyric man.
Favorite fragrance house: vintage Guerlain, esp. shalimar (vintage disc EDC); chamade, Parure, VdN extrait only
Favorite fragrance that I missed out on: Caron Or et Noir
Favorite vintage fragrance that I buy at inflated prices and hoard: floris Malmaison and Caron original 1950s Poivre extrait.
favorite fragrance that somehow has turned on my skin chemistry after years of wear: Caron extrait alpona
Overrated: I have many Serge Lutens bell jars but have decided after many years that they aren’t really me. (Though I will wear shiesedo feminite de bois. (I do think Nombre Noire is overrated, but I only have a decant). I don’t care for Hermes fragrance though I will sometimes wear l’orange vert or vetiver tonka. I also think le Labo is somewhat overrated, but I still occasionally try to find one that works. Many dark roses are overpriced and overly sweet including almost all from Maison Kurdjian (spelling). I don’t generally care for l’artesan, except for the original almirenz Voleur des roses which I adore
Underrated: though I strongly prefer French perfume to Italian, I used to wear fragrances from etro.
Gendered fragrance: tow of my favorite men’s fragrances : the original Karl Lagerfeld for men and the original Chanel egoiste and the discontinued creed that everyone thought was overrated; the one that smelt like pineapple aventus.
Popular fragrances that do not work on me (ones that turn to powder)
Molinard de molinard (in the gorgeous black Lalique bottle) and habanita. L’ heure blue ( maybe it’s the violet), and etro heliotrope. I vacillate re andy tauers fragrances like phi Une rose du Kandahar. I used to wear FM Musc Ravageur by roucel; I think he and Dominique ro pion are geniuses, but the fragrances don’t always work.
In the summer (although many citrus ones turn candied on me) I like the cheap 4711 or the Guerlain grapefruit one. Or vintage chanel EDC 19 or cristalle.
My biggest regret is when JAR was at Bergdorfs years ago, that I did not buy some of the scents. (DH didn’t like them, and I balked at the price)
Re tom Ford: I positively detest the neroli one (it’s horrendous on my skin chemistry). But, I think it’s simply Estée Lauder’s lux, somewhat generic, and overpriced line. I did like old Estée Lauder in theory. And Estée Lauder’s old beach scent was nice.
I love the original l’ arte d gucci ( but not the EdT which is too green) and the old narciso Rodriguez oil.
P.s. I love orange sanguine.
I wish I liked or could understand the original diorella or, in a similar vein, FM parfum de terese (I sadly have a full bottle of this one
I have never tried the original vintage bel ami or Dior Eau sauvage. The current interactions of sauvage smell like department store chemicals to me.
Scent that I was surprised I like: our
Scent I wish I liked but don’t: anything with saffron or myrrh
Scent I was embarrassed I liked but never wore: flowerbomb, though @papertiger, most fragrances I wear were launched over ten years ago and are not considered classics.

I'll have to check some of those out. What a wide variety you've sampled!

I usually don't like myrrh either. But it's a minor note in Kayse Macarons, and I like it there. It works to keep the scent from being cloyingly sweet. Guess it's true that there's an exception to every rule...

Can I ask the differences between French and Italian perfumes?

 

[880]

I'll have to check some of those out. What a wide variety you've sampled!

I usually don't like myrrh either. But it's a minor note in Kayse Macarons, and I like it there. It works to keep the scent from being cloyingly sweet. Guess it's true that there's an exception to every rule...

Can I ask the differences between French and Italian perfumes?

IMO only, vintage French perfumes, on my skin chemistry, have a distinct evolution : a beginning, middle and end, aka opening, middle and base note. That’s how I can wear FM geranium pour monsieur and tolerate the opening toothpaste note that dissipates.

When I wear Italian, like etro, Lorenzo V., Santa Maria Nov., or, a few others ( I am having a senior moment and cannot recall), they start strong on me, and fade evenly. I used to wear a lot of Serge Lutens (which is French but behaves on my skin like an Italian scent) but less so in recent years bc there is little evolution on my skin, just boom. I do like middle eastern fragrance lines like amouage that boom then fade evenly, so perhaps my logic is more than a bit faulty. . .

The method of application can also cause a fragrances notes to come out more strongly then dissipate (spray) versus a slow natural evolution (dab). In certain decades like the 1980s, Guerlain EdT (I believe it was the gold flask) was explosive. I tore apart my Mitsouko from that era and decanted it.

OT, but I feel somewhat the same about french versus Italian RTW. French is just more structured I wear Italian RTW when I’m more relaxed ( think body skimming and soft even in sartorial cuts)

Edit: I did recall that I read somewhere, 99% of non French perfumes are composed by French perfumers, so maybe I’m just imagining a difference that doesn’t really exist. It could just be based on whatever brief the company gives its perfumer. IDK

 

[JenJBS]

Very interesting and informative. Thank you!

I'm probably boring, but I prefer the scents than stay the same the entire time, rather than changing over time. I also tend to like perfumes with fewer Notes/Accords.

I think you make a valid point with the brief given to the Perfumer.

Like you, I'd prefer the Italian style for RTW.

 

[Purses & Perfumes]

I would say L'Eau Privee is a very 'safe' perfume. It's soft sillage means it won't be overwhelming - and hopefully won't give you headache. It's really lovely, and there are no notes likely to cause any strong reaction from anyone near you smelling it. I think it would be great for a job interview, church, meeting an important new client, meeting the SO's family, a funeral, etc. I like to take a long shower when I get home from work to help relax. I plan on enjoying this scent afterward on a quiet evening in, with it fading as I eventually get ready for bed.
⁝

Thanks for the description. I'll check it out the next time I am at the mall.

I forgot to mention Serge Lutens fragrances. I have quite a few of them and I wanted to mention Ambre Sultan to show how sometimes, our perceptions about a perfume can change over time. I tested Ambre Sultan several years ago, and at that time, it didn't really click with me at all. I actually had the older bottle and gave it away. However, a year or so ago, when I was testing some other amber scents, I suddenly remembered Ambre Sultan and really wanted to smell it again. So I ordered a sample and this time I absolutely loved it! Not sure what changed, but it's currently my favorite amber scent.

The other Lutens fragrances that I enjoy are Un Lys (lovely lily) and Borneo 1834 (patchouli and cacao). Also Sa Majeste la Rose and Fleurs de Citronnier (summer scent for me).

 

[880]

Thanks for the description. I'll check it out the next time I am at the mall.

I forgot to mention Serge Lutens fragrances. I have quite a few of them and I wanted to mention Ambre Sultan to show how sometimes, our perceptions about a perfume can change over time. I tested Ambre Sultan several years ago, and at that time, it didn't really click with me at all. I actually had the older bottle and gave it away. However, a year or so ago, when I was testing some other amber scents, I suddenly remembered Ambre Sultan and really wanted to smell it again. So I ordered a sample and this time I absolutely loved it! Not sure what changed, but it's currently my favorite amber scent.

The other Lutens fragrances that I enjoy are Un Lys (lovely lily) and Borneo 1834 (patchouli and cacao). Also Sa Majeste la Rose and Fleurs de Citronnier (summer scent for me).

I love how we are all so different! It’s amazing to hear about how other people feel about a fragrance! +1 Borneo 1834