Aww, I am happy to hear that now merchants in Istanbul are not so agressive in peddling their wares but I wish things were that way when I went. I have to say that although it is beautiful, Istanbul was my least favorite trip I ever took because of all the pushy, aggressive merchants. They made me feel really upset because half of them followed me around and were really pushy and the other half pretend to befriend me and then tried to make me go to their rug shop. I really, really hated it to the point it really spoiled my trip. I would love to go back someday if they have toned it down. It really is beautiful.
That said, one of my favorite travel memories is walking at night when the sky was midnight blue, approaching the Blue Mosque and watching a flock of birds circling in the lights shining on the Mosque. I will never for get that. And I loved the chants waking me up in the night. So beautiful. Oh! I almost forgot that the best dinner I ever had was in Istanbul. I wish mezze would catch on in the US.