Caring for Designer Ready to Wear

[anastasiya26]

I searched for a thread like this but couldn't find one dedicated to RTW care. I hope I'm posting this in the right place!

I've recently started the journey of building my elevated wardrobe and am feeling a little frustrated by how seemingly fragile even luxury garments appear to be. A brand new Missoni skirt I have yet to even wear out of the house is already torn at the zipper, just from trying it on a few times at home. A Versace jersey wrap skirt needed reinforced seams after two wears. My beautiful silk Balmain shirt came back from the very first dry clean with misshapen, lumpy shoulder pads and low hanging buttons. I'm finding myself hoarding and putting off wearing my favorite pieces because it seems inevitable that they will get ruined or turn shabby within the first rotations. Does anyone have advice for keeping RTW in beautiful condition that lasts for years? For instance, I just invested in a few gorgeous Tom Ford silk blouses and hear contrasting opinions on the best way to take care of them (some swear by hand washing in water, some recommend dry clean after each wear, others warn you to avoid the dry cleaner at any cost). If you've found tried and true methods of caring for various garment types and learned to maintain your RTW wardrobe for years, I would be so grateful for your secrets! I find that many designer pieces look, feel, and fit truly superior than lower tier clothing on the first impression, but I'll be so disappointed if it turns out that this quality premium doesn't extend to longevity.

 

[onlyk]

I searched for a thread like this but couldn't find one dedicated to RTW care. I hope I'm posting this in the right place!

I've recently started the journey of building my elevated wardrobe and am feeling a little frustrated by how seemingly fragile even luxury garments appear to be. A brand new Missoni skirt I have yet to even wear out of the house is already torn at the zipper, just from trying it on a few times at home. A Versace jersey wrap skirt needed reinforced seams after two wears. My beautiful silk Balmain shirt came back from the very first dry clean with misshapen, lumpy shoulder pads and low hanging buttons. I'm finding myself hoarding and putting off wearing my favorite pieces because it seems inevitable that they will get ruined or turn shabby within the first rotations. Does anyone have advice for keeping RTW in beautiful condition that lasts for years? For instance, I just invested in a few gorgeous Tom Ford silk blouses and hear contrasting opinions on the best way to take care of them (some swear by hand washing in water, some recommend dry clean after each wear, others warn you to avoid the dry cleaner at any cost). If you've found tried and true methods of caring for various garment types and learned to maintain your RTW wardrobe for years, I would be so grateful for your secrets! I find that many designer pieces look, feel, and fit truly superior than lower tier clothing on the first impression, but I'll be so disappointed if it turns out that this quality premium doesn't extend to longevity.

Better not to wash often, wear them carefully, better not having meals, cakes, drinks when wearing them

 

[DME]

Tagging @880. She has an impressive RTW wardrobe with many vintage pieces. I suspect she has great advice!

 

[A bottle of Red]

So sometimes designer rtw doesn't necessarily equate to better quality. Other times the fabrics are just really more delicate.
I'm still learning how to see if clothes are good quality and long lasting.

 

[anastasiya26]

Tagging @880. She has an impressive RTW wardrobe with many vintage pieces. I suspect she has great advice!

Thank you so much! This would be amazing! I often think about this - how people scour vintage pieces that have had a lifetime, and still go on to have a second life with the new wearer - so it must not be the case that all clothes are doomed to get shabby quickly.

So sometimes designer rtw doesn't necessarily equate to better quality. Other times the fabrics are just really more delicate.
I'm still learning how to see if clothes are good quality and long lasting.

I'm trying to figure this out as well. I have a pretty keen eye for the "first impression" test - when the quality is superior in terms of feel of the fabric or fit or design - but it's really hard to discern if something will last. For one, I will start paying more attention to double stitching. Seams really should not be splitting after one or two wears (the items were not too small and fit well). Any tips on evaluating lasting quality would also be greatly appreciated!

 

[cecchetti]

Tagging @880. She has an impressive RTW wardrobe with many vintage pieces. I suspect she has great advice!

I’m not @880 but vintage rtw was much better made, and a Lot less fragile.

I started wearing Chanel at 16, and wore designer clothing from then on, even Haute Couture.

Chanel rtw is very well made-I wore their wool skirts to work with silk blouses , ditto Chanel dresses in wool or cotton, or even cashmere.

I also wore Valentino, Yves Saint Laurent, Claude Montana-which literally lasted years.

My “casual clothing” consisted of a couple of pairs of jodhpur style Donna Karan leggings with Romeo Gigli tops.

I didn’t baby anything -dry cleaned when necessary , hand washed cashmere.

Now my life is more casual although I do have Alexander McQueen which I dry clean-although it’s not the same quality.

But the issues you’ve had above , I Definitely didn’t have -or I’d have had nothing to wear..

 

[880]

Tagging @880. She has an impressive RTW wardrobe with many vintage pieces. I

Thank you for the tag @DME. I prefer to invest my retail budget on tailored items (separates like jackets, skirts, coats, dresses) which are a bit hardier than blouses etc

but vintage rtw was much better made, and a Lot less fragile.

I started wearing Chanel at 16, and wore designer clothing from then on, even Haute Couture.

Chanel rtw is very well made-I wore their wool skirts to work with silk blouses , ditto Chanel dresses in wool or cotton, or even cashmere.

I also wore Valentino, Yves Saint Laurent, Claude Montana-which literally lasted years.

Agree with @cecchetti . I still have old silk gauze YSL from tom ford era etc.

I have a very good relationship with my dry cleaner. I dry clean rarely (only as needed); and they always cover or clip and resew buttons and delicate bits. Always ask for blouses and shirts to be done by hand (and ask about whether sizing/starch or other is used). A reputable dry cleaner will always be able to give his expert opinion re how something should be done and whether this will change the hand feel or finish of the garment. As for shoulder pads, best practice IMO is to clip and resew. I avoid buying anything with them.

Unfortunately some expensive items are not durable and some actually aren’t meant to be dry cleaned (I’m thinking of feathers, embroidery, beadwork). High retail cost does not always mean durable. Cost of upkeep of items can be very high. Some on TPF are experts at handwashing. (Check the scarf threads) I am not; and I cannot block garments to original shape, so I don’t try.

Another option is a heavy duty steamer (which I might buy for custom upholstery— I haven’t decided yet) but always check care labels before trying anything

ETA: I have been told by experts that clothing, like leather, needs to breathe. In other words, don’t seal it in airtight containers or plastic (such as the dry cleaning bags). Try to give items room in your closet, and try to use hangers that preserve the shoulders. I love Chanel boucle, and this is also why I prefer hand held bags to shoulder carry. Less damaging to the garment.

 

[caruava]

I've only recently (last 5-7 years) started buying rtw items. As others have said before, the designer tag doesn't always equate to quality. I don't do all that much, just a few things.

I fold my knitwear and not let it hang.

As I do not go out often and with the changing seasons, I ensure any insects will not find my clothes attractive (essential oil repellent on small pillows in each wardrobe and drawer, cedar blocks work too). I've never had an issue but don't want to risk it by doing nothing.

I don't hang back anything that has been worn (even briefly) without airing out for a few days and steaming. I've always had a steamer.

I focus on cleaning of items that have been worn at the end of seasons, so they aren't sitting till the next year (or longer) till they're worn again. If I can wash it myself I will, like cashmere knitwear and silk. Some by hand and some in machine on silk or wool setting (my machine is very gentle, don't recommend it for everyone). Anything I can't wash, or not game to touch, that's where the dry cleaner comes in.

A good dry cleaner is important. I don't dry clean items often, and refer to all the point previous poster @880 has made.

 

[Christofle]

I think the best policy if you don’t want to have to deal with finicky garments is to opt for less delicate fabrics and anything with open weaves.

There’s also the option to purchase from brands that offer their own cleaning and repair services.

 

[Aletheia]

I do agree with @cecchetti that vintage items are so much better in quality, but it is interesting to explore new styles too, so here are my tips:
- I hand wash all my silks, including vintage and H scarves. I use a special detergent for silks and sometimes fabric sanitizer too. I put them in a small plastic basin (white in color), soak them up for 5-10 minutes, gently scrub with my fingers any area that has spots and rinse the item in 3 different waters (the last one very cold water). After that, I put the item on a huge white towel and roll the towel to absorb any moisture. Then I either put them to dry flat on another (dry towel) or hang them on a hanger. Never let silks dry in the sun as this can cause discoloration, especially dark colors. After that, I steam them and place them in my wardrobe. I use Santa Maria Novella scented wax tablets to keep the wardrobe smelling fresh.
My advice is to not buy very fine silks, which are not lasting at all and can show marks even after one wear. Also, dark colored silks will look worse after hand washing, I usually dry clean them. Lately, the silks have become thinner. I have recently looked at some Gucci silk shirts was disappointed in their quality.
- Wool items can be washed in the washing machine (delicate cycle with minimum rotations) or hand washed using the method described above. Always air dry the wools (especially cashmere) flat on a towel (never hang them as this could stretch the fibers).
- I do dry clean all my suits, jackets and coats, never had a problem so far.
- A good steamer is a very good investment. There is no need to wash the items after every wear if there are no marks. Steam them, hang them to dry and place them in the drawer.
What has helped me the most is learning about how a quality garment should look and feel, looking at how vintage items were sewn and the fabric they used taught me to be more selective when purchasing from the newer collections. I don't think it matters so much if it is Tom Ford or any other designer, as long as the item does not reflect the luxurious price charged and does not match the price with the quality. When selecting an item, please look at the fabric, the cut and the stitches. Are they of good quality? Does the item look solid? If not, maybe it would be best to leave it.

 

[anastasiya26]

I do agree with @cecchetti that vintage items are so much better in quality, but it is interesting to explore new styles too, so here are my tips:
- I hand wash all my silks, including vintage and H scarves. I use a special detergent for silks and sometimes fabric sanitizer too. I put them in a small plastic basin (white in color), soak them up for 5-10 minutes, gently scrub with my fingers any area that has spots and rinse the item in 3 different waters (the last one very cold water). After that, I put the item on a huge white towel and roll the towel to absorb any moisture. Then I either put them to dry flat on another (dry towel) or hang them on a hanger. Never let silks dry in the sun as this can cause discoloration, especially dark colors. After that, I steam them and place them in my wardrobe. I use Santa Maria Novella scented wax tablets to keep the wardrobe smelling fresh.
My advice is to not buy very fine silks, which are not lasting at all and can show marks even after one wear. Also, dark colored silks will look worse after hand washing, I usually dry clean them. Lately, the silks have become thinner. I have recently looked at some Gucci silk shirts was disappointed in their quality.
- Wool items can be washed in the washing machine (delicate cycle with minimum rotations) or hand washed using the method described above. Always air dry the wools (especially cashmere) flat on a towel (never hang them as this could stretch the fibers).
- I do dry clean all my suits, jackets and coats, never had a problem so far.
- A good steamer is a very good investment. There is no need to wash the items after every wear if there are no marks. Steam them, hang them to dry and place them in the drawer.
What has helped me the most is learning about how a quality garment should look and feel, looking at how vintage items were sewn and the fabric they used taught me to be more selective when purchasing from the newer collections. I don't think it matters so much if it is Tom Ford or any other designer, as long as the item does not reflect the luxurious price charged and does not match the price with the quality. When selecting an item, please look at the fabric, the cut and the stitches. Are they of good quality? Does the item look solid? If not, maybe it would be best to leave it.

Thank you so much for this thoughtful advice! In the case of the Tom Ford, it definitely feels strong and high quality. The silk is very thick. Is there anything to look out for in the stitches beyond them looking neat?

 

[880]

Forgot to add, one theoretical issue with washing though perhaps not with hand washing, cold water…

If a garment shrinks at a different rate than the thread, will the seams pucker… this has never happened to me, but I read about it somewhere. Part of my rationale for professional clean over DIY. However I am clumsy and if one is careful and wishes to try DIY, @Aletheia ‘s post gives excellent advice. I’m not sure if she recommends a color catcher, but I don’t think adding one to cold water would hurt.

In looking for a professional dry cleaner, the best rated is not always the best choice. I have had better luck trying out neighborhood places slowly. Testing them with less costly garments, and working my way up to higher quality items. I’ve found this to hold true with tailoring services

 

[anastasiya26]

Now my life is more casual although I do have Alexander McQueen which I dry clean-although it’s not the same quality.

Ah, which McQueen pieces do you have? I have two crepe suits and some wool pants and was pleased with the quality, which means I must not have experienced the very best!

I focus on cleaning of items that have been worn at the end of seasons, so they aren't sitting till the next year (or longer) till they're worn again. If I can wash it myself I will, like cashmere knitwear and silk. Some by hand and some in machine on silk or wool setting (my machine is very gentle, don't recommend it for everyone). Anything I can't wash, or not game to touch, that's where the dry cleaner comes in.

Have you noticed any stains on the silk from this method? I read somewhere that silk develops oil stains if not cleaned after each wear, which sounds terrifying! I haven't noticed anything on my black silks which I've been able to wear many times before having to clean, but now that I've added some ivory and colored pieces, this approach feels more risky.

If a garment shrinks at a different rate than the thread, will the seams pucker… this has never happened to me, but I read about it somewhere. Part of my rationale for professional clean over DIY. However I am clumsy and if one is careful and wishes to try DIY, @Aletheia ‘s post gives excellent advice. I’m not sure if she recommends a color catcher, but I don’t think adding one to cold water would hurt.

In looking for a professional dry cleaner, the best rated is not always the best choice. I have had better luck trying out neighborhood places slowly. Testing them with less costly garments, and working my way up to higher quality items. I’ve found this to hold true with tailoring services

I somehow missed your very long and thoughtful response! Very helpful, thank you. I am the same way where I would prefer to delegate to a professional cleaner because I simply don't trust myself to DIY without error - but finding the right cleaner is truly a challenge. Appreciate the tip of testing different cleaners with less precious garments first and working up to higher quality. This does seem like the only way.

 

[Aletheia]

I would say that the stitches should be sturdy and straight.
I wash each item separately, including silk or delicate lingerie, but the color catcher would be a great idea!

 

[Love Of My Life]

Will add that the boucle, moire, grain de poudre, faille, Abraham silk among other luxurious fabrics from
yesteryear cannot be compared with what is available now from many of the top designers.
In addition to the other responses, protecting & storing your clothes from damage from moths/insects
in particular is also important. Those wonderful old world weavers are a dying breed for repairs from
holes.
Washing silk is a skill & finding the right products is also a challenge
Would not challenge myself washing silk or cashmere, but that's me