There is no easy answer to this question. I am fond of both mid century modern (Norman norell, et al) and more modern stuff, like JPG for Hermes. Make sure you know your measurements and how the garments fit. Vintage sizing is very different than today’s sizing. Make sure you know which vogue runway collections, your ideal pieces come from (you can subscribe to vogue to gain access to runway collections of prior years). Of course, luck plays a role. I once got a Vincuna overcoat for DH in a warehouse on lower fifth ave. Expensive, but a fraction of the cost of vicuña today. A friends college age nephew is now the happy recipient of some of these types of finds. (DH turns his closet over regularly)
Then scour shops in your area; eBay; first dibs; auctions like the latest Sothebys one had Chanel. . .auction houses are not the best guarantee of condition so it’s caveat emptor. If in Japan, LA, or NY, or Paris, simply google best vintage shopping, for the latest list. I have internet searches going for my favorites. Even if something is in pristine deadstock condition, the mid century stuff at least, had linings that may have deteriorated under the sheer weight of the garment, so I have a specialty dry cleaner and tailor on hand to customize and replace linings etc. Another service like invisible reweaving might be necessary.
And, I don’t recommend buying a specialty garment, such as a lizard trenchcoat (it might have been
Gucci, IDK) like I did. It was more expensive to try to refurbish it (four figures before I stopped) than the purchase price. A perfect Purse in South Hampton used to be a favorite stop for me and my mom, but it was bc it was convenient pre covid. Not sure we ever bought much. The smaller places have charm but not enough selection or specialization IMO. A friends daughter likes to shop in Brooklyn, but I don’t know the latest great places there.
ETA: I happen to believe for example, KL for Chanel in the 1990s designed fuller silhouettes than he did in the early aughts (when I started shopping Chanel 57). My theory was that his designs became more body conscious when he first lost the weight). I found it helped to know bits of trivia like that when trying to find older styles. I also remember buying from the YSL and Gucci boutiques when Tom Ford was the designer. I still have some of those pieces in my closet, and they help me to evaluate items that purport to be of those collections on sale in recent years. The Nineties, not exactly being vintage (except in my own closet lol) It simply takes a lot of time and energy, and I resigned myself to making some mistakes until you get a sense for your taste and what is out there.
