I'm so interested in people's thoughts on this. What do you think is going to happen in the luxury market? The past two years saw the resale market take off, increase in Hermes obsession, crazy price increases from many luxury houses despite no increase in quality. Do you feel that the resale market will cool off or continue to grow? Do you feel that luxury in general is just very expensive fast fashion that feels exclusive? Can luxury ever be truly embrace sustainability and be commercial? So many ways this question could be answered.
What is the future of luxury going to look like?
- Thread starter torontosarah
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IMO the resale market prices will cool off; it’s cyclical. But, sometimes waiting could take awhile. 
IMO, true luxury will eventually wind its way to bespoke (full custom, not MtM) Clothes, bags shoes accessories, and those styles will evolve to become more fashionable, rather than solely sartorial. I currently shop mainly at Hermes, chanel, Dior and brunello Cuchinelli, and I’m most excited about a bag I commissioned of Buffalo Dalmatian at Duret.com, a bespoke atelier in Paris. It becomes less about best resale value and more about having exactly what you want in an item that is unique, handcrafted, and of the finest material and skill. @Tasha1 started a thread about Duret here https://forum.purseblog.com/threads/duret-bag.1040839/, and her experience inspired me to order the bag long distance rather than wait to travel to the source. (DH had previously ordered custom Duret belts from leffote NYC.
I also don’t think it’s a matter of price, but discernment and taste and fit and function, and learning from professionals (be it an SA or stylist or other who knows your taste) The latest, hottest item on Instagram probably won’t work for my lifestyle or body build. JMO of course.
IMO, true luxury will eventually wind its way to bespoke (full custom, not MtM) Clothes, bags shoes accessories, and those styles will evolve to become more fashionable, rather than solely sartorial. I currently shop mainly at Hermes, chanel, Dior and brunello Cuchinelli, and I’m most excited about a bag I commissioned of Buffalo Dalmatian at Duret.com, a bespoke atelier in Paris. It becomes less about best resale value and more about having exactly what you want in an item that is unique, handcrafted, and of the finest material and skill. @Tasha1 started a thread about Duret here https://forum.purseblog.com/threads/duret-bag.1040839/, and her experience inspired me to order the bag long distance rather than wait to travel to the source. (DH had previously ordered custom Duret belts from leffote NYC.
I also don’t think it’s a matter of price, but discernment and taste and fit and function, and learning from professionals (be it an SA or stylist or other who knows your taste) The latest, hottest item on Instagram probably won’t work for my lifestyle or body build. JMO of course.
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Thanks - the Duret bags do indeed look stunning. I have always been interested in more low key and unknown bespoke/handmade bags. Love your comment regarding real luxury becoming more bespoke that is fashionable rather than solely sartorial. I hope that this is true!
The resale market better cool off lol. But I think it will eventually like @880 said.
I used to shop quite a bit of resale 5-6 years ago, when I could get basically brand new or barely used for 30 - 40% off.
Now it is just ridiculous
and I don't even bother trying to buy from the resale market. I will check it out from time to time to see what are the most popular pieces people like to "resell" or at what mark-up value they add onto the most coveted bags (like Chanel and Hermes).
There are certain pieces though, that are very slowly dropping in price in the re-sale market. Such as the LV Petite Malle. I've seen them for around $3600.
Well if fashion houses are continuously doing price increases, in theory, since items are more expensive, less people would buy luxury, or people would buy less luxury items or less people would be able to afford them as easily as before. Therefore, perhaps luxury will not become expensive fast fashion. There are even some brands like Dior and Fendi, that purposefully make their stock low (less production). And of course, that's more for exclusivity (and making people panic buy hah), but I prefer that over making too much and having a surplus that may go to waste.
I used to shop quite a bit of resale 5-6 years ago, when I could get basically brand new or barely used for 30 - 40% off.
Now it is just ridiculous
and I don't even bother trying to buy from the resale market. I will check it out from time to time to see what are the most popular pieces people like to "resell" or at what mark-up value they add onto the most coveted bags (like Chanel and Hermes).There are certain pieces though, that are very slowly dropping in price in the re-sale market. Such as the LV Petite Malle. I've seen them for around $3600.
Well if fashion houses are continuously doing price increases, in theory, since items are more expensive, less people would buy luxury, or people would buy less luxury items or less people would be able to afford them as easily as before. Therefore, perhaps luxury will not become expensive fast fashion. There are even some brands like Dior and Fendi, that purposefully make their stock low (less production). And of course, that's more for exclusivity (and making people panic buy hah), but I prefer that over making too much and having a surplus that may go to waste.
I think you have to work with the artesan or tailor at that. For example, DH has custom, not MtM shirts at Turnbull, which is considered quite traditional. He started to talk to them about constructing shirts that would go more with a relaxed Italian way of dressing (brunello Cuchinelli). BC the one thing BC doesn’t do is a good structured shirt. so DH and Turnbull collaborate. DH brings in photos of stylists from Pitti Uomo and other inspirations, and they talk about ‘experimenting’ with interfacing, collar structure, piping, pockets, fit. if Turnbull d9esnt have the fabric, they sometimes offer to source it Bc DH has been a long standing client. Sometimes they plan for DH to bring a shirt back to have the long sleeves cut into short sleeves (bc neither Turnbull nor DH was sure the short sleeve would work optimally, and while you can shorten a sleeve, once it’s gone. . . Etc etc. The end effect is sometimes oddly issey miyake meets brunello seen through a turnbull lens, but all entirely Dhs personality. However, it takes time, team effort, willingness to experiment, and a lot of patience.
+1000 with @lill_canele re prices and sustainability
there are still great prices on Hermes trims and some other models, some seasonal chanel bags (rue cambon and some 1990s styles); chanel and Dior exotics; Dior dioramas etc etc. BTW, I adore French caneles Years ago before Pierre Herme went global and we would go to the original shop on Rue Bonaparte, they had great canele and kouign aman and gateau breton and cookies.
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Completely agree. As we only have limited space, I believe it's more important to have less things that fits our lifestyle and taste than a load of things that we end up not using much.IMO the resale market prices will cool off; it’s cyclical. But, sometimes waiting could take awhile.
IMO, true luxury will eventually wind its way to bespoke (full custom, not MtM) Clothes, bags shoes accessories, and those styles will evolve to become more fashionable, rather than solely sartorial. I currently shop mainly at Hermes, chanel, Dior and brunello Cuchinelli, and I’m most excited about a bag I commissioned of Buffalo Dalmatian at Duret.com, a bespoke atelier in Paris. It becomes less about best resale value and more about having exactly what you want in an item that is unique, handcrafted, and of the finest material and skill. @Tasha1 started a thread about Duret here https://forum.purseblog.com/threads/duret-bag.1040839/, and her experience inspired me to order the bag long distance rather than wait to travel to the source. (DH had previously ordered custom Duret belts from leffote NYC.
I also don’t think it’s a matter of price, but discernment and taste and fit and function, and learning from professionals (be it an SA or stylist or other who knows your taste) The latest, hottest item on Instagram probably won’t work for my lifestyle or body build. JMO of course.
I'm thinking about commissioning from Duret a cross-body bag in the style of one of their brief cases and croc.
Maybe next year...
I think until social media is around (so a very very long time), the desire/race for luxury items will always be around. Growing up I thought only celebrities carry Louis Vuitton and wear Louboutins.
IMO, luxury is having an SA know what’s in your closet ; know your sizes; lifestyle; what works and what doesnt; and be actively invested in getting you the best of the season that will be great on you. You may not even know what they have in mind, until they say excitedly that they found the perfect thing for you. That may not be the hottest thing on Instagram or resale or on the ad Campaign Or on a TPF thread. That SA will then of course, know which of the stores tailors are the best; call dibs on a coveted garment on sale; actively search to fill in any gaps in your wardrobe; and in return, you trust their judgment; are not uber high maintenance; and are polite and considerate of their professional expertise and time; and, you buy what works and suits you. I don’t have a problem saying to an SA for this kind of item, I’m not spending more than x. Or if you can find me this item, I‘m committed. The luxury is in the time savings and expert and personal curation.
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My own experience of luxury has always been about finding incredible pieces and incredible prices on the resale market. I don’t have the budget to purchase in store and I have an incredible collection of vintage and preloved.
I have a hard time accepting that luxury has largely become more about marketing and less about craft and quality. I don’t believe that luxury needs to be exclusive but I do believe that the design, craft and integrity of the product should be valued above all - by the companies producing the goods first and ideally the consumer.
Since the inception of LVMH and other luxury conglomerates the commercial side of luxury has redefined what luxury is. Which isn’t to say there are not still beautiful pieces being made and sold but the focus is on marketing the idea of what it means and feels like to be a person who wears luxury brands to the masses rather than to purchase something that looks amazing on you, will be in your closet forever.
obviously, these are businesses and they are making more and more money this way but for me it cheapens the experience and this is why I don’t feel like I’m missing out on the instore experience.
I have a hard time accepting that luxury has largely become more about marketing and less about craft and quality. I don’t believe that luxury needs to be exclusive but I do believe that the design, craft and integrity of the product should be valued above all - by the companies producing the goods first and ideally the consumer.
Since the inception of LVMH and other luxury conglomerates the commercial side of luxury has redefined what luxury is. Which isn’t to say there are not still beautiful pieces being made and sold but the focus is on marketing the idea of what it means and feels like to be a person who wears luxury brands to the masses rather than to purchase something that looks amazing on you, will be in your closet forever.
obviously, these are businesses and they are making more and more money this way but for me it cheapens the experience and this is why I don’t feel like I’m missing out on the instore experience.
Custom, custom, custom...
Some pairs of Oakley Glasses, you can pick the colors of the plastic for every part of the glasses. You can even get the lenses engraved with words at the edge.
Ralph Lauren sells custom Polo shirts. You pick ALL the colors and you you can add and customize all the fine details. You can add a number on the back or even a name.
You can create something that is totally unique.
I think there may be fashion houses to offer these sorts of options for bags.
Image if a celebrity wanted to make a custom bag - who would say no?
I think even regular people would pay a fortune to design their own bag with leathers, fabrics and colors that they want.
I for one have a belt bag from Gucci on order that is size "100" for bags. According to the website it has a long enough strap for me as a man. It's a men's bag.
Had that size not been available - I would have paid whatever it took as an alteration to get a longer strap.
This has much to do with internet communications...
We have the ability to order details on sophisticated websites and contact info for questions is readily available.
Not to mention FB and IG.
I bet even the makers or their interns cruise this site to see what people are saying.
Just today I saw a shirt on a pro golfer so I called up Hugo Boss about it. I sent them a screen shot by email and I'm awaiting a response.
We DO have a voice and the brands that are destined to succeed will be wise to listen to us.
Some pairs of Oakley Glasses, you can pick the colors of the plastic for every part of the glasses. You can even get the lenses engraved with words at the edge.
Ralph Lauren sells custom Polo shirts. You pick ALL the colors and you you can add and customize all the fine details. You can add a number on the back or even a name.
You can create something that is totally unique.
I think there may be fashion houses to offer these sorts of options for bags.
Image if a celebrity wanted to make a custom bag - who would say no?
I think even regular people would pay a fortune to design their own bag with leathers, fabrics and colors that they want.
I for one have a belt bag from Gucci on order that is size "100" for bags. According to the website it has a long enough strap for me as a man. It's a men's bag.
Had that size not been available - I would have paid whatever it took as an alteration to get a longer strap.
This has much to do with internet communications...
We have the ability to order details on sophisticated websites and contact info for questions is readily available.
Not to mention FB and IG.
I bet even the makers or their interns cruise this site to see what people are saying.
Just today I saw a shirt on a pro golfer so I called up Hugo Boss about it. I sent them a screen shot by email and I'm awaiting a response.
We DO have a voice and the brands that are destined to succeed will be wise to listen to us.
Such interesting post and discussion.
My view is that the secondary market will not cool off any time soon. If any thing, I believe we are at the beginning of the explosion.
The thing about the resale market is that it used to be very local and hence limited in scope. Your local consignment or thrift shops, then came ebay, but it was still not easy to buy accross countries… And now you have big conglomerates that have made a business of selling pre-loved and also made it more confortable for people to buy pre-loved from smaller providers. This is only going to grow. We are just now witnessing big retailers getting into the resale market, such as Farfetch and now MyTheresa. The brands themselves want a piece of it too. Everyone does.
Authenticity is the big question mark in all this. But what the expansion of the resale market shows is that people are VERY willing to accept various authentication means even if they don‘t get 100% certainty. We see it in this forum too, and people outside it are less demanding.
What all this would mean for the future of luxury I don’t know. We are at an interesting moment because luxury fashion is now simultaneously more expensive but also less exclusive (more accesible and ubiquitous) than ever before.
In this situation, raising prices does not work to incite exlusivity. We see it with Chanel. The constant and outrageous increases combined with the robust resale market have only made buying a Chanel classic flap a more accesible proposition because of the confort of knowing that you can sell it without a loss so that it is seen basically as money in the bank. So you are left with scarcity, as with Hermes, which of course also carries its own issues encompassed in the infamous H journey, which feels increasingly like a tour operator experience rather than a first class ride…
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Lol, the Hermes roller coaster
luxury retailers are getting into resale: Neiman Marcus/fashionphile; richmont/ watchfinders. VCA flagship has a heritage vintage counter (second floor). As per professsionals that I’ve encountered at retail establishments, brands no longer put the same amount of precious material or labor thst used to be commonplace as late as the 1980s.
I wish Hermes would do the same as VCA flagship: source and restore vintage collectible pieces and offer them for sale. . . IMO, since Hermes no longer offers certain materials, styles, that would be in line with the scarcity and quality of true luxury.
“What all this would mean for the future of luxury I don’t know. We are at an interesting moment because luxury fashion is now simultaneously more expensive but also less exclusive (more accesible and ubiquitous) than ever before.”
Yes! This dynamic is what I find fascinating - that luxury is more expensive and at the same time more and more ubiquitous. Which is one reason that luxury clothing and accessories feel more and more like very expensive fast fashion to me.
I am also very intrigued to watch what happens in the resale market. In particular because it is far more sustainable (albeit not perfect) than buying new clothing ever will be (even “sustainable” fashion) and I think this will also continue to grow in importance. big brands have already started to look for a piece of the action. I think more and more will jump on the bandwagon.
Yes! This dynamic is what I find fascinating - that luxury is more expensive and at the same time more and more ubiquitous. Which is one reason that luxury clothing and accessories feel more and more like very expensive fast fashion to me.
I am also very intrigued to watch what happens in the resale market. In particular because it is far more sustainable (albeit not perfect) than buying new clothing ever will be (even “sustainable” fashion) and I think this will also continue to grow in importance. big brands have already started to look for a piece of the action. I think more and more will jump on the bandwagon.