Vuitton / Jones / Chapman

fabuleux

STAND UP
Aug 3, 2014
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Interesting article from The Telegraph, which provides a little insight on the bold upcoming Chapman Brothers' collection.

Louis Vuitton's Kim Jones on collaborating with the Chapman brothers for his anniversary collection

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What happens when you mix the aesthetics of classic luxury, the wildness and experimentation of Africa and subversive British punk humour? The result could very well be Louis Vuitton’s spring/summer 2017 menswear collection created by the label’s menswear artistic director Kim Jones and British artists Jake and Dinos Chapman. Louis Vuitton has been at the forefront of artist collaborations for almost 20 years .The idea of a creative conversation between fashion and art wasn’t new in 2000 but the fashion house’s approach was. "You have to look at the things Marc Jacobs did with Stephen Sprouse and how they completely changed the way that people felt about Vuitton. How it appealed to a new generation. I think that is super exciting," says Jones from his Paris atelier. They brought it to the masses.’

This is the second time Jones has worked with the Chapmans on the label’s menswear collection. "We really enjoyed the experience the first time and felt we didn’t realise the potential of what it could be," Jones explains. The partnership grew out of a natural friendship. "I met Jake through Kate Moss, at someone’s house 15 years ago. We were just laughing a lot talking about some TV celebrity. It was something that basic," he says. Jake also was drawn towards Jones’s cultural calibre. "Kim’s art and book collections speak volumes about how exceptional he is, and the idea of working with him is less a consideration than it is a sympathetic assumption."

The first Louis Vuitton collection that Jones and the Chapman brothers worked on was for AW13; a response to the idea of the Garden of Hell and the landscape and exotic animals of the Himalayas. For SS17, Jones took the artists’ idea of "layering" to add Chapman drawings to luggage, leather goods and fabrics. "Their defacing thing is really fun for Vuitton because it’s something that they’re not used to doing. But because it’s done in a creative, artistic way, they appreciate it," explains Jones.

In 2003 Jake and Dinos notoriously worked on top of Francisco Goya’s early 19th-century engravings The Disasters of War, transforming a set of the original prints into something modern and conversational. They added almost-childlike elements to the prints, drawing clown and puppy heads onto all the visible victims, resulting in images brimming with humour and gore.

At the time the pair were called vandals by the media – though the work, entitled Insult to Injury, also earned them a Turner Prize nomination. Their approach was not just about a juvenile desire to deface and destroy. Rather, they had a very modern take on politics, humour and aesthetics – a desire to reinvigorate art history itself. "We don’t have much respect for drawing in itself," says Jake. "We’ve been at pains to obliterate the romantic association between primal modes of representation and instinct."

Their work aims to subvert the moral and ethical judgements viewers make. Indeed, their animal drawings for Louis Vuitton echo another early project in which they took (and failed) Art GCSE, with work that was intentionally naïve and humorous. The consistency and technical skills that Jones has employed to layer the Chapmans’ dark-light creatures onto leather and fabric is impressive – like an art form itself. The depictions of Africa’s best known wild animals – rhinos, elephants, leopards, lions and giraffes – are more imaginative and surreal than lifelike. Yet this is why they work so well with the luxury goods. "The idea of those things being very fantastical really goes hand in hand with what we’re creating, this dream for people," the designer says. The collection juggles subversion and invention and feels exceptionally fresh, benefiting from a process of creation that played to all parties’ strengths.

"I came up with the concept of what I wanted to do for the season, sent some ideas and then they came back with their approach," Jones explains. He found off-kilter etchings of wild animals by early visitors to Africa and shared them with Jake and Dinos. "They gave me that Chapman feeling." The duo responded with a group of drawings and things moved smoothly from there. Subversion has always been part of Jones’s approach to fashion and his take on masculinity – from British-edged streetwear to punk’s sedition. "I’m a researcher through and through. If I get into something I need to know everything about it. I collect a lot of Bloomsbury – Duncan Grant, Virginia Woolf, Vanessa Bell. They were the punks of their time because they didn’t conform to society." Jones’s influence and respect within his industry is unparalleled. "He absolutely embodies the modern lifestyle he portrays,’"says Dazed and AnOther magazine founder, Jefferson Hack. "He understands the underlying currents of pop culture and fashion in a way that allows him to create the future."


His SS17 collection reflects an awareness of the zeitgeist with influences including biker gangs in Botswana and youth subcultures in South Africa. "I was looking at the kids in South Africa now that they have grown up outside of apartheid. The way they dress and mix styles is a powerful statement – it’s not nostalgic. It’s a place that is progressing at a rapid rate."

Fittingly for a label with such a strong heritage of luxury travel goods, travel is a huge inspiration for Jones when sourcing ideas and concepts for Louis Vuitton. "I’m interested in everything. I want to see as much as possible," he says. Jones spent much of his childhood in Africa between the ages of four and 14, due to his father’s work as a hydro-geologist, and it has had a lasting influence on his work. "It’s such a beautiful continent – not just the landscapes, but the people, the culture, the animals. It’s quite overwhelming."

His enthusiasm for travel and nature is palpable and something that permeates his creativity. "When I meet customers in stores and they’ve seen a show that they liked, they then go on holiday and want to know more. It’s more than just fashion. I think it helps people feel connected."

The Louis Vuitton Chapman Brothers Pre-Spring collection pop-up store is open until January 15 and the SS17 collection will be available to preview at from December 15, at Selfridges; selfridges.com
 
Interesting article from The Telegraph, which provides a little insight on the bold upcoming Chapman Brothers' collection.

Louis Vuitton's Kim Jones on collaborating with the Chapman brothers for his anniversary collection

View attachment 3541289
What happens when you mix the aesthetics of classic luxury, the wildness and experimentation of Africa and subversive British punk humour? The result could very well be Louis Vuitton’s spring/summer 2017 menswear collection created by the label’s menswear artistic director Kim Jones and British artists Jake and Dinos Chapman. Louis Vuitton has been at the forefront of artist collaborations for almost 20 years .The idea of a creative conversation between fashion and art wasn’t new in 2000 but the fashion house’s approach was. "You have to look at the things Marc Jacobs did with Stephen Sprouse and how they completely changed the way that people felt about Vuitton. How it appealed to a new generation. I think that is super exciting," says Jones from his Paris atelier. They brought it to the masses.’

This is the second time Jones has worked with the Chapmans on the label’s menswear collection. "We really enjoyed the experience the first time and felt we didn’t realise the potential of what it could be," Jones explains. The partnership grew out of a natural friendship. "I met Jake through Kate Moss, at someone’s house 15 years ago. We were just laughing a lot talking about some TV celebrity. It was something that basic," he says. Jake also was drawn towards Jones’s cultural calibre. "Kim’s art and book collections speak volumes about how exceptional he is, and the idea of working with him is less a consideration than it is a sympathetic assumption."

The first Louis Vuitton collection that Jones and the Chapman brothers worked on was for AW13; a response to the idea of the Garden of Hell and the landscape and exotic animals of the Himalayas. For SS17, Jones took the artists’ idea of "layering" to add Chapman drawings to luggage, leather goods and fabrics. "Their defacing thing is really fun for Vuitton because it’s something that they’re not used to doing. But because it’s done in a creative, artistic way, they appreciate it," explains Jones.

In 2003 Jake and Dinos notoriously worked on top of Francisco Goya’s early 19th-century engravings The Disasters of War, transforming a set of the original prints into something modern and conversational. They added almost-childlike elements to the prints, drawing clown and puppy heads onto all the visible victims, resulting in images brimming with humour and gore.

At the time the pair were called vandals by the media – though the work, entitled Insult to Injury, also earned them a Turner Prize nomination. Their approach was not just about a juvenile desire to deface and destroy. Rather, they had a very modern take on politics, humour and aesthetics – a desire to reinvigorate art history itself. "We don’t have much respect for drawing in itself," says Jake. "We’ve been at pains to obliterate the romantic association between primal modes of representation and instinct."

Their work aims to subvert the moral and ethical judgements viewers make. Indeed, their animal drawings for Louis Vuitton echo another early project in which they took (and failed) Art GCSE, with work that was intentionally naïve and humorous. The consistency and technical skills that Jones has employed to layer the Chapmans’ dark-light creatures onto leather and fabric is impressive – like an art form itself. The depictions of Africa’s best known wild animals – rhinos, elephants, leopards, lions and giraffes – are more imaginative and surreal than lifelike. Yet this is why they work so well with the luxury goods. "The idea of those things being very fantastical really goes hand in hand with what we’re creating, this dream for people," the designer says. The collection juggles subversion and invention and feels exceptionally fresh, benefiting from a process of creation that played to all parties’ strengths.

"I came up with the concept of what I wanted to do for the season, sent some ideas and then they came back with their approach," Jones explains. He found off-kilter etchings of wild animals by early visitors to Africa and shared them with Jake and Dinos. "They gave me that Chapman feeling." The duo responded with a group of drawings and things moved smoothly from there. Subversion has always been part of Jones’s approach to fashion and his take on masculinity – from British-edged streetwear to punk’s sedition. "I’m a researcher through and through. If I get into something I need to know everything about it. I collect a lot of Bloomsbury – Duncan Grant, Virginia Woolf, Vanessa Bell. They were the punks of their time because they didn’t conform to society." Jones’s influence and respect within his industry is unparalleled. "He absolutely embodies the modern lifestyle he portrays,’"says Dazed and AnOther magazine founder, Jefferson Hack. "He understands the underlying currents of pop culture and fashion in a way that allows him to create the future."


His SS17 collection reflects an awareness of the zeitgeist with influences including biker gangs in Botswana and youth subcultures in South Africa. "I was looking at the kids in South Africa now that they have grown up outside of apartheid. The way they dress and mix styles is a powerful statement – it’s not nostalgic. It’s a place that is progressing at a rapid rate."

Fittingly for a label with such a strong heritage of luxury travel goods, travel is a huge inspiration for Jones when sourcing ideas and concepts for Louis Vuitton. "I’m interested in everything. I want to see as much as possible," he says. Jones spent much of his childhood in Africa between the ages of four and 14, due to his father’s work as a hydro-geologist, and it has had a lasting influence on his work. "It’s such a beautiful continent – not just the landscapes, but the people, the culture, the animals. It’s quite overwhelming."

His enthusiasm for travel and nature is palpable and something that permeates his creativity. "When I meet customers in stores and they’ve seen a show that they liked, they then go on holiday and want to know more. It’s more than just fashion. I think it helps people feel connected."

The Louis Vuitton Chapman Brothers Pre-Spring collection pop-up store is open until January 15 and the SS17 collection will be available to preview at from December 15, at Selfridges; selfridges.com
Are you considering buying any of these pieces yourself?
 
I went to the store today. I think they launch 1/20. I wanted a luggage tag w the zebra on it but it's a set for about 635 US dollars. Man that's a lot ! They also had the pocket card holder for 390 I believe. View attachment 3571931View attachment 3571932

I'm literally having a hard time for being indecisive. :smash:
One hand I want a pocket organizer from this collection. Then I tell myself just wait for tax return for a classic monogram wallet.