How do vintage Hermes scarfs compare in quality to more recent releases? Is the silk on the older scarves thicker and more lustrous or is it about the same? When I say vintage I mean anything pre-1980.
Vintage vs. current Hermes scarf quality?
- Thread starter blacktigergoose
- Start date
TPF may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others
I really can't compare my recent Hermes scarf purchase with any of the vintage ones as I don't own any. However, I do own older, high-grade silk scarves from other decent brands- and I was pleasantly surprised by my Hermes scarf online purchase : thick yet not heavy in that sense, very luxurious feel to it. 'Sorry if it's not a helpful response to your question!
Attachments
My vintage H silkies have the potential to bleed when washing. The color in the newer scarves is more stable.
I agree with this. Otherwise, as I’ve been collecting since 1997, I would say the quality is about the same, at least since then. There was a period of time around the mid-late 90s when Hermès was using a lot of (too much!) sizing in their scarves, which made them stiffer. I thought those were too stiff. It was only for a few seasons, fortunately, and had nothing to do with the quality of manufacture. I have never noticed a change in the regular silks over the past 24 years. I know you asked about the 80s, unfortunately I can’t personally speak to that!
I have a vintage Les Amazones from an early release (either 1968 or 1976, I've never been able to nail down for sure) that feels maybe a tiny bit thinner than modern scarves, but that might be due to lots of wear--it's been very well loved. No real difference on luster.
Agree on the 90s scarves sometimes being super stiff--my Rêve d'Australie from 1999 is incredibly stiff.
I know there have been a few different silk types released in the last few seasons--wash silks and silk plume--that are thinner/lighter feeling than regular H silks.
Agree on the 90s scarves sometimes being super stiff--my Rêve d'Australie from 1999 is incredibly stiff.
I know there have been a few different silk types released in the last few seasons--wash silks and silk plume--that are thinner/lighter feeling than regular H silks.
It depends on the season, year but mostly how the scarves have been cared for. I'm not the biggest vintage collector but I have scarves from every decade for almost 70 years.
My Plumes 1953 is one of the thickest silk twills but it's obviously been washed x 1000 so is also very 'peachy' La Marine en Bois, just 5 years later (1958) is slightly thinner but probably washed less. I didn't imagine it was that old until I researched it and went through all the cws.
I bought (but retuned) an original issue Les Perspectives (1968) and it was like a rag - that was much more how it had been treated as I have several scarves from the 1960s and are like new, but again, also well-bled, 'duster' scarves that have obviously been soaked or machine washed, they are softer than than my 'Wash' or Dip-dyes.
My 1970, '80s & '90s seem up and down too re. weight. I think it's how people have looked after them that counts more, the drapey effect that makes them look thinner is enhanced by repeated hard-washing.
Recent scarves like Lazy Leopardesses 2021 feels so thick and crisp but I haven't had a chance to wash it yet.
For me the worst crime is the poor quality printing on one side and the other practically white, it makes the scarf like cheap, thinner than it is and hopeless to tie in various ways. Happily when @frou frou once pointed this out I made sure that either I only bought the palest design in a series or just didn't. Even now one of my amazing Dimitri R. from 2014 scarves bugs the F out of me being so vibrant on one side and 'nothing' on the other.
Most of the 70s are called 'vintage' because they are made in the plume weight. They basically hang like a well-washed vintage scarf. I don't mind because they're small. However, I wouldn't buy a Plume 140, which I think all the recent 140s have been. I can buy big flat silks at Liberty for 1/3 price. The 140 Winter Twills are heavier like my Peg de H en Bloc is a magnificent scarf, much more a shawl or throw, different altogether.
My Plumes 1953 is one of the thickest silk twills but it's obviously been washed x 1000 so is also very 'peachy' La Marine en Bois, just 5 years later (1958) is slightly thinner but probably washed less. I didn't imagine it was that old until I researched it and went through all the cws.
I bought (but retuned) an original issue Les Perspectives (1968) and it was like a rag - that was much more how it had been treated as I have several scarves from the 1960s and are like new, but again, also well-bled, 'duster' scarves that have obviously been soaked or machine washed, they are softer than than my 'Wash' or Dip-dyes.
My 1970, '80s & '90s seem up and down too re. weight. I think it's how people have looked after them that counts more, the drapey effect that makes them look thinner is enhanced by repeated hard-washing.
Recent scarves like Lazy Leopardesses 2021 feels so thick and crisp but I haven't had a chance to wash it yet.
For me the worst crime is the poor quality printing on one side and the other practically white, it makes the scarf like cheap, thinner than it is and hopeless to tie in various ways. Happily when @frou frou once pointed this out I made sure that either I only bought the palest design in a series or just didn't. Even now one of my amazing Dimitri R. from 2014 scarves bugs the F out of me being so vibrant on one side and 'nothing' on the other.
Most of the 70s are called 'vintage' because they are made in the plume weight. They basically hang like a well-washed vintage scarf. I don't mind because they're small. However, I wouldn't buy a Plume 140, which I think all the recent 140s have been. I can buy big flat silks at Liberty for 1/3 price. The 140 Winter Twills are heavier like my Peg de H en Bloc is a magnificent scarf, much more a shawl or throw, different altogether.
Thanks for the extensive answer, is the one-sided print problem an occassional issue or a persistant issue with Hermes releases?
I like a lighter-draping scarf but agree I can get such scarves elsewhere.
The much lighter-side print is more obvious on some designs and deeper cws. It seems to have affected some laser-printed examples rather than vintage screen-prints more easily but not consistently.