I used to love going to the Valextra store in milan before they had their 'make over' to make them a 'brand'...
I think they had/have potential, as they have a rich heritage of really clever designs and understated luxury, but somehow in the re-branding that has been wiped out.
They have gone for a very boxy, hard leather, super-structured look, that is not about the tactile appeal of luxury leather... the leathers do not look like they will age nicely with time, and have no sensual appeal. They are heavily chrome-tanned, giving that almost spray-painted finish.
I can't help but feel that they have been designed on a CAD CAM system (computer designed). As a designer who's worked for lots of top-end brands, I have often seen how this way of designing creates very hard end results. The factory gets sent the designs which look like boxes, and are not about the beauty and handle of the leather, which is what, to me, luxury leather goods is all about.
I think if they get into some lovely softer leathers and look back into their archives for inspiration, they have great potential.
Hermes, meanwhile, is all about the tactile, literally. It's completely hand-stitched, and you can feel the soul in it. That's what you pay for.
Loro Piana make some nice bags too... simple and elegant yet not up-tight.
I've applied the same approach in my own collection. It's all about the handle of the leather, beautiful stitching, understated luxury, and, I hope, soul.
Judy - Very, very well stated!!