IMO, a very mature scent. Like what the women of Dallas would wear.... http://www.nytimes.com/2006/11/09/fashion/09ford.html?ref=fashion By NATASHA SINGER Published: November 9, 2006 TOM FORD Black Orchid, the first fragrance to bear the name of the designer who recast Gucci as an erotically charged red-carpet staple, is not for wallflowers. Lars Klove for The New York Times Like Robert Piguets classic perfume Fracas, the new scent comes in a substantial ink-black flask knotted with gold twine. The perfumes name, Black Orchid, is as florid as a film noir title. And its fleshy scent, concocted out of exotic flora and truffles, is as lush and heavy as velvet. In the 1990s, it would have been a transparent bottle with minimalist packaging, transparent juice and a minimalist scent, Mr. Ford said. But we have become so dermatological in our approach to beauty that I wanted to put some glamour back into beauty with a powerful fragrance. Introduced last Thursday at Saks Fifth Avenue in Manhattan, Black Orchid is the first offering from Tom Ford Beauty, which Mr. Ford has created with the backing of Estée Lauder. The company plans to bring out more scents and a makeup line. The beauty line is part of an effort by Mr. Ford to establish the Tom Ford brand, a luxury label that began selling eyeglasses last year and plans to open its mens stores next year. But analysts wonder whether consumers who flocked to the Gucci brand will follow the designer into more mature territory as he rebrands himself as a bespoke gentleman selling retro glamour. Black Orchid is a heavy statement in name, packaging and scent, and it goes against the grain of the flaunting sexiness you expect from him, said Allan Mottus, the editor of The Informationist, a cosmetics trade magazine. But he may be clever going for that mature, dramatic type woman who has enormous wealth, is not into hip-hop, and has an appetite for Garbo-ish, Grand Hotel type beauty statements. During his decade as the creative director of Gucci, a position from which he resigned in 2004, Mr. Ford took the Italian house from a moribund label making $230 million a year to a $3 billion powerhouse. Since then, he has produced a book. Last year Mr. Ford designed two makeup collections for Estée Lauder in which he updated the brands classic iconography and reincarnated a signature perfume Youth Dew as Amber Nude. John Demsey, group president of Estée Lauder Companies, said that Azurée, one of Mr. Fords makeup collections for Estée Lauder, was the largest selling collection in the brands history. Black Orchid is made from a recherché dark orchid. The ad campaign features Julia Restoin-Roitfeld, the daughter of the editrix of French Vogue, in an old-style Hollywood glamour shot, all red lipstick, dreamy hair and bedroom eyes. For me to put a story back into fragrance and put the fragrance into a beautifully designed bottle and shoot it in a very lush way, this is a reaction to a decade of minimalism that has left people starved for content and substance, Mr. Ford said. I wanted a potent product. And potent it is. At the party for Black Orchid last Thursday, held at Top of the Rock, the black velvet curtains seemed doused in the fragrance, which wafted noticeably onto the terrace. At a time when cosmetics companies are marketing products with dry, scientific promises, some beauty analysts predict that Mr. Fords alignment with glamour will resonate. The core values of sizzle, of emotion, of something that speaks to you personally have been missing in the beauty category, said Sherry Baker, a past president of Victoria Secret Beauty. If Tom Ford, a man who makes a woman feel like a woman, can create a return to glamour, there will be a significant demand for that.