Single cut vs. Full cut
Typically each stone used in micro pavé is a “full cut” diamond, which means that it has the same 58 facets that you would count on any ideal cut round brilliant. However, full cut diamonds are not the best to use in micro pavé.
The very best diamonds to use in micro pavé are “single cut” diamonds because they have far fewer facets (17 facets) . Larger facets on a single cut diamond are proportionally bigger and tend to return distinct flashes of light. High quality single cuts are mainly used in expensive watches to decorate the dials and mark the hours. But single cuts are very scarce, not to mention expensive, with the luxury watch industry consuming almost all of the production.
We use single cut diamonds only for the most exclusive pieces or when a customer specifically requests them. Sometimes it takes weeks for certain sizes of single cuts to be delivered from Europe. From an artists’ point of view, it is definitely worth the money and effort to go with single cuts instead of full cuts.
Most retailers would rather impress their customers with the tale of how each tiny stone has all 58 facets just like the larger ones. (This is because the majority of them are simply ignorant on the issue or must go out of their way to obtain single cuts). Although it’s a good sales approach, you simply cannot get the same rich look from full cut melee that you can get from single cut.
Micro pavé became available when the technology of cutting very small stones by machines was developed in the mid-1970’s. Shortly after, cutters in Europe (Belgium in particular) were able to cut ideally proportioned stones in microscopic sizes.
Early micro pavé was a new and time-consuming technique that only a few master setters could execute properly. Therefore, only a few very exclusive micro pavé pieces were produced.
Micro pavé was first employed to highlight the immense value of certain important gems placed in settings. Later, when automatic cutting machines advanced to the point that large quantities were commercially produced, supplies of smaller and smaller diamonds appeared on the market. What once was very exclusive and prohibitively expensive became a common form of surface decoration in a variety of fine jewelry.
Setters increasingly became familiar with this new setting technology as public demand grew for micro pavé. Today micro pavé is so widespread that it’s now available in a variety of qualities. Large factories in Asia use cheap labor to churn out massive quantities of micro pavé jewelry.
By cutting corners on a few important steps in the setting process they are able to produce micro pavé that somewhat resembles the well-made version to a layman’s eye. However, these pieces never stand up well to close scrutiny or daily wear and tear. Some telltale signs of poorly made micro pavé are: roughness to the touch; unevenness of texture and clarity; ill-defined rows and patterns; misshapen beads; and too much metal covering the stones.