Round Brilliant Stud Help pretty please

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  1. So I posted pics of a pair of Princess studs a week or so ago....and here's the thing. They're beautiful, but I'm not entirely sold on the way they look on the ear...I'm just used to the sparkle and "face up" factor of the traditional RB. So, I sent the Princess pair back and am now considering the following two pairs:

    1.16 tcw H/SI1, Triple Excellent
    62.4, 62.3 depth, table 56%


    1.15 tcw F/SI1, Triple Excellent
    depth 62.1, 62.3% depth, 57% table

    While it looks obvious as to what the choice should be, the difference is $250, and quite frankly, with the H being near-colorless, I'm not certain the F is necessary....the RB pair is already an extra $500 (have the H pair on hold but just found the F pair).

    Help, ladies! Thanks. :biggrin:
     
  2. Not enough information on either set but both sets are too deep.
     
  3. #3 Mar 15, 2016
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2016
    How so? Every source I've found has listed the ideal cut off point as 62.5 or 63.5. If I'm missing something, please do share.

    Also, one from the H is 5.34 - 5.36 x 3.34 mm, one from the F is 5.30 - 5.33 x 3.30 mm.
     
  4. In order for it to be considered Ideal the depth percentage technically cuts off at 61.8%, with the allowance of 62.0%. Because those are over 62% depth, even those tenths of a percent, you're losing a little size in diameter. Stones of that carat weight should be closer to 5.4mm. While in visible size that's not much, you are losing spread because the carat weight is lost in the depth vs the diameter. Why not get the full spread for your money?

    But my main point in "not enough information for either set" is that you aren't giving me crown and pavilion angles, so how do we know those are well cut? Just saying they are "triple excellent" means jack squat. You can say a piece of gravel is "triple excellent" and it not be. So without those angles, that grade says nothing. But I can tell you already that with those depths, I would pass. Not my money, though.
     
  5. I appreciate the input......Googling the ideal pavilion angle (and crown) and did not know so much "rode" on it.....looking around and a G/SI1 pair is only 1.08 TCW. BUT:
    table 56%, 57%
    61.6, 61% depth
    pavilion is that magic 41 degree angle and crown 34.5.

    So this may be wisest.
     
  6. Actually you'd rather it be 40.7 or 40.8 but a 41 isn't a dealbreaker.
     
  7. Total depth between 59 – 61.8%
    Table diameter between 55-57 (I will occasionally put the table between 54.5 to 57.1 when searching.)
    Crown angle between 34.3 – 34.9 degrees
    Pavilion angle between 40.6 – 40.9 degrees
    Girdle thickness between thin to medium, faceted (bruted isn't bad, but faceted is more visually appealing.)
    Culet size: none

    Secret sauce is a 55% table, a depth around 59.5-60%, a Crown Angle of 34.5 and a Pavilion Angle of 40.7-40.8.

    There's room for a little wiggle on CA and PA but ideally you want to keep it tight. Slightly below those ranges/above those ranges for CA and PA can be worked with as long as they line up. The key is that they line up or the light won't reflect.
     
    staceyjan likes this.