Riccardo Tisci has left Givenchy!

averagejoe

AJ
Moderator
Authenticator
O.G.
Nov 22, 2006
24,095
11,652
Toronto
From WWD: http://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/riccardo-tisci-leaves-givenchy-wwd-10774902/

By Miles Socha on February 2, 2017
Riccardo Tisci, who revved up and reinvented Givenchy in his own edgy image, has exited the French house after an electrifying 12-year tenure.

The French couture house confirmed his departure exclusively to WWD, noting that his last collections were fall men’s wear and spring couture, which were paraded together at the National Library of France in Paris on Jan. 20.

Sources described the parting as mutual and amicable, the separation effective Jan. 31 following the expiration of his latest employment agreement.


Tisci invited friend and fellow designer, Donatella Versace to pose for a fall 2015 ad campaign.

Tisci’s departure is sure to intensify speculation he is heading to Versace.

WWD broke the news on Jan. 19 that the Milan-based house has been chasing Tisci, who has long expressed his admiration for the work of the late Gianni Versace and cultivated a close friendship with his sister Donatella, whom he invited to pose in a Givenchy ad campaign in 2015.

In light of Tisci’s departure, Givenchy will not stage a runway show on March 5 during Paris Fashion Week.

It is understood the fall women’s collection will be designed by the studio and sold to retailers in Givenchy’s Paris showroom as usual.

The format for presenting the collection to the press has yet to be determined.

More: See Riccardo Tisci’s Last Givenchy Show

Givenchy’s ateliers are also working on some of Tisci’s final designs as sources told WWD that he has lined up stars to wear custom couture outfits at the Grammy Awards on Feb. 12 and the Academy Awards on Feb. 26.

Celebrities in Tisci’s orbit include the likes of Meryl Streep, Beyoncé (who on Wednesday revealed she and her husband Jay Z are expecting twins), Julia Roberts, Cate Blanchett, Ciara and Kanye West.


Kim Kardashian chose Givenchy couture for her 2015 wedding. Kim Kardashian West Instagram

Givenchy did not provide any timelines for naming a successor and declined all comment on potential candidates.

Tisci’s exit is the latest tremor as creative upheaval spreads through the top ranks of international fashion.

Over the past year, Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Valentino, Marni, Lanvin, Chloé, Jil Sander, Ermenegildo Zegna, Roberto Cavalli, Oscar de la Renta, Salvatore Ferragamo and Carven have all made changes in creative leadership.

As Givenchy draws up its list of potential candidates, it could draw on such well-known designers on the market as Hedi Slimane, Alber Elbaz, Peter Dundas, Clare Waight Keller, Rodolfo Paglialunga and Peter Copping. Buzzy designers like Balmain’s Olivier Rousteing could also be on its radar.

In a statement, Bernard Arnault, chairman and chief executive officer of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, Givenchy’s parent, lauded Tisci’s accomplishments.

“The chapter Riccardo Tisci has written with the house of Givenchy over the last 12 years represents an incredible vision to sustain its continuous success, and I would like to warmly thank him for his core contribution to the house’s development.”

For his part, Tisci said, “I have very special affection for the House of Givenchy and its beautiful teams. I want to thank the LVMH Group and Monsieur Bernard Arnault for giving me the platform to express my creativity over the years. I now wish to focus on my personal interests and passions.”


Jeweled everything at Givenchy’s spring 2012 couture show. Penske Med/REX/Shutterstock

A bundle of creative energy forever shod in Nike sneakers, Tisci was a daring, uncharacteristic hire for LVMH, which has a track record of casting media stars to helm its fashion brands, which also include Fendi, Céline, Kenzo, Loewe and Pucci.

Tisci was relatively unknown, and just 30, when he was recruited by then Givenchy ceo Marco Gobbetti, who is to assume the management helm of Burberry later this year.

Tisci succeeded a string of designers who, to varying degrees, encountered some bumps on the road to brand rejuvenation following the 1995 retirement of founder Hubert de Givenchy.

After a brief stint by John Galliano, who moved on to Dior, Alexander McQueen tried his hand. But his eclectic collections — space aliens one season, rockabilly the next — failed to galvanize the house. Next up was Julien Macdonald, who went back to a style rooted in French elegance and sophistication, but did not win much acclaim.

Tisci brought stability — and heat — to the storied name, immediately making inroads with the world’s leading specialty stores and spawning a series of hit leather goods, kicking off with the Nightingale bag.

He took on design duties for men’s wear three years later, and helped ignite the streetwear trend with his T-shirts printed with snarling Rottweilers or big stars, among his fetish motifs.

Setting a daring template informed by the energy of the club scene and tinged with sexual provocation, Tisci quickly became one of men’s wear’s most influential and original designers.

He had recently expressed a desire to extend Givenchy’s reach as a lifestyle brand, having introduced a range of clothes for babies and children that is slated for July delivery.

According to market sources, Givenchy increased more than sixfold in size during the Tisci era, and the brand’s revenues are now north of 500 million euros, or $540 million at current exchange. The number of employees has risen to more than 930 from 290 in 2005.

Philippe Fortunato, ceo of Givenchy, has been spearheading its recent expansion thrust and credited Tisci’s “visionary qualities that led to a strong growth of the brand.”

Fueled by Tisci’s design chops, powerful communication skills and clutch of A-list celebrity friends, the brand has been tracking strong sales momentum and profitability, sources said. Once dependent on wholesale, Givenchy continues its retail rollout, with a Rome boutique slated to open this year and a London flagship in the works for early 2018.

The company also recently took over direct distribution of its collections in two key luxury markets: Dubai and Singapore.

Givenchy today boasts 72 freestanding stores, compared to only seven in 2005 when Tisci arrived.

Continue reading here: http://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/riccardo-tisci-leaves-givenchy-wwd-10774902/
 

randr21

Watch "The Cove"
O.G.
May 25, 2006
11,532
3,080
New York City
I think he did a great job bringing house of Givenchy to newer generations but I'm not as keen on the association with the Kardashians. Either way, he left his mark. I cant wait to see who succeeds him and what direction Givenchy will take.
 

eiiv

Member
Jul 5, 2013
433
453
I'm surprised by the news. Wonder what kind of direction Givenchy would take with its bags in the future. Hopefully it's for the better and not something like what happened with Dior. Or Mulberry. o_o
 
  • Like
Reactions: Tinkles

averagejoe

AJ
Moderator
Authenticator
O.G.
Nov 22, 2006
24,095
11,652
Toronto
I'm surprised by the news. Wonder what kind of direction Givenchy would take with its bags in the future. Hopefully it's for the better and not something like what happened with Dior. Or Mulberry. o_o
The designer for the Kanye West brand is rumoured to be moving to Givenchy. Expect to see lots of cool street-wear if this happens. Not sure about the Haute Couture side of the business, though. Tisci was one of the best couturiers.
http://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion...-among-candidates-for-givenchy-post-10777943/

Dior under Maria Grazia Chiuri may not sit as well with past Dior fans, but she's attracting a new audience to Dior, similar to how Alessandro Michele's Gucci was such a radical departure that it was either love-it-or-hate-it, and their sales seem to reflect that a lot more people love it.

We'll see the real reaction to the new Dior when the sales figures come in. The first accessories that she designed are already flying off the shelves, and completely sold out in most boutiques, according to the sales associates, that is.
 
  • Like
Reactions: GemsBerry

randr21

Watch "The Cove"
O.G.
May 25, 2006
11,532
3,080
New York City
I do see the diorever and diorama everywhere on blogs and instagram, not to mention the oversaturation of Gucci bags, shoes and belts. Its nice to see the resurgence of some brands. I just hope its sustainable and not a one trick pony.

Givenchy handbags have sometimes been described as second class, compared to investment worthy bags like chanel and LV. They were under the radar for so long that I enjoyed being one of the few that were in the know.

Sometimes I want to defend the fact that they are not worthy of an elite bag status, but then I do see G bags on sale every season, and the resale value isnt quite as high, but as long as I like the bags and they suit my lifestyle, I dont really buy them for any other reason. Are they as good of quality as a chanel? Maybe not, but then again, I've heard chanel quality has been slowly eroding. At the end of the day, to each his own.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Tinkles

gracepark

New Member
Feb 18, 2017
1
0
I had decided to get a Pandora bag. I may wait a bit now to see what else comes down the pipeline.....
 

Hermezzy

Beauty and quality are my weaknesses
Jul 14, 2012
2,782
1,723
Pacific Time Zone, USA
This is very sad to me. Under Tisci's direction I came to love Givenchy menswear. The fit, materials, and small details...utterly unique. I have several pairs of G black jeans and I swear by them. I was concerned when Slimane left Saint Laurent and am starting to see disappointing design trends emerge at that house under Anthony Vacarello. I truly hope G doesn't fall from its apex position post-Tisci...
 
Feb 13, 2006
1,651
292
Honolulu, HI
FYI...also posted in the Burberry forum. One of a bunch of articles out there.

http://wwd.com/business-news/financ...ardo-tisci-chief-creative-officer-1202603025/

Burberry Taps Riccardo Tisci as Chief Creative Officer
Tisci will replace Christopher Bailey who announced he was stepping down last year.
By Samantha Conti on March 1, 2018


LONDON — Burberry shares have been rising steadily on the London Stock Exchange after the brand said Riccardo Tisci would replace Christopher Bailey as chief creative officer, effective March 12. At 10:35 a.m. GMT, the shares were up 5.2 percent to 16.13 pounds.

Retailers and analysts applauded an appointment that will see the reunion of Burberry’s chief executive officer Marco Gobbetti and Tisci, who worked closely together at Givenchy, where the former served as ceo and the latter as its couturier.

Tisci, a graduate of Central Saint Martins in London, will direct all Burberry collections and present his first for the brand in September – sooner than the brand had anticipated. When Bailey stepped down in October, he said February was to be his last collection, with an in-house team likely working on the September outing.

Tisci will be based at Burberry’s headquarters in London. A women’s wear, men’s wear, leather goods and accessories designer, Tisci spent more than a decade at Givenchy, where he was creative director from 2005 to 2017. He left the French brand in February 2017.

While Tisci’s arrival at Burberry marks a new beginning, it also signals the end of a dramatic narrative for the designer: Rumors were circulating last year that Tisci was to join Versace, but the much talked-about deal never materialized.

“Riccardo is one of the most talented designers of our time,” said Gobbetti. “His designs have an elegance that is contemporary and his skill in blending streetwear with high fashion is highly relevant to today’s luxury consumer. Riccardo’s creative vision will reinforce the ambitions we have for Burberry and position the brand firmly in luxury.”

Tisci said he was happy to be joining Burberry and reuniting with Gobbetti. “I have an enormous respect for Burberry’s British heritage and global appeal and I am excited about the potential of this exceptional brand.”

Retailers and analysts alike gave Gobbetti’s decision the thumbs up, saying Tisci will fulfill the ceo’s strategies of cementing Burberry in the luxury space and appealing to a new and younger consumer.

“I’m excited, I think it’s great. It’s amazing that he worked with Marco, I think it is going to be seamless so I’m very happy,” said Mario Grauso, president of Holt, Renfrew and Co. “I think he can play with the historic codes beautifully, I’m excited, I think it’s gonna be good. We have a beautiful business with Burberry, really nice size.

The store carries the men’s and women’s collection in all of its doors, he said.

“We love the idea. We are huge fans of Riccardo, we think he is one of the great designers working today, one of the most creative,” said Jim Gold, president and chief merchandising officer of Neiman Marcus.

“He has a keen sense of what is happening on the street and also a great appreciation for luxury and quality. We think the unexpected combination of his bringing Riccardo’s extraordinary creativity to a traditional house like Burberry will be very exciting for our customers. I have every confidence that Marco will continue to offer the kinds of products that have made Burberry so popular but infuse them with newness and creativity that will create even greater demand for the brand.”

Financial analysts, who had been tough on Gobbetti during the third-quarter results presentation in January, pressuring him to pick Bailey’s successor sooner rather than later, said Tisci’s appointment would be good for business.

“The appointment could trigger excitement and support for the stock,” said Luca Solca at Exane BNP Paribas, calling the announcement an “incremental positive, given Tisci’s strong track record and high profile.

Rogerio Fujimori of RBC Capital Markets said: “Mr. Tisci seems to be a good fit to Burberry’s medium-term ambition to position itself firmly in luxury, with more fashion content and stronger presence is accessories.”