Friend and I were having a discussion of Hermès hardware options. The topic of Gold versus Palladium came up, and specifically whether or not Gold was once the only option. It does seem that all the vintage bags have gold hardware. Was that once the only hardware available? If so, then when did Palladium become available, along with all the other options? Any Hermès historians out there?
Query: History of Hermès Hardware
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I think I can help answer this one.
Era one— Solid Brass:
The original Hermès hardware was actually solid brass. This is the hardware you will see on vintage Hermès bags from the early 1980s and before. Gold plated hardware and solid brass hardware look very similar, so that is often confused.
Era two— Gold plated brass:
Around the mid-1980s, we start to see the advent of the gold plated Hermès hardware. Hermès also changed the stamping on the hardware around this time, so that is a good way to tell whether a bag is from before or after the mid-1980s. Palladium hardware still did not exist.
Era three— Palladium plated brass:
Palladium plated hardware was introduced in the 1990s.
Thanks. Very fascinating. Solid brass pretty much makes sense. I had a bag that I bought in the late 1980’s that definitely was plated gold, not brass. Next time I see vintage bags, I’m really going to take note of the hardware.I think I can help answer this one.
Era one— Solid Brass:
The original Hermès hardware was actually solid brass. This is the hardware you will see on vintage Hermès bags from the early 1980s and before. Gold plated hardware and solid brass hardware look very similar, so that is often confused.
Era two— Gold plated brass:
Around the mid-1980s, we start to see the advent of the gold plated Hermès hardware. Hermès also changed the stamping on the hardware around this time, so that is a good way to tell whether a bag is from before or after the mid-1980s. Palladium hardware still did not exist.
Era three— Palladium plated brass:
Palladium plated hardware was introduced in the 1990s.
I agree with the above posts.
My Porosus Kelly from 1977 has brass hardware, confirmed by SAV at FSH.
One of my SAs (who spent her entire working career at Hermes and recently retired) told me that PHW was a relatively recent addition. At one point the only hardware available was gold. I believe
Permabrass and then Rose Gold hardware were introduced next. Somewhere in between we have brushed and the other variations with different finishes.
My Porosus Kelly from 1977 has brass hardware, confirmed by SAV at FSH.
One of my SAs (who spent her entire working career at Hermes and recently retired) told me that PHW was a relatively recent addition. At one point the only hardware available was gold. I believe
Permabrass and then Rose Gold hardware were introduced next. Somewhere in between we have brushed and the other variations with different finishes.
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So interesting! I’m off to inspect the hardware on my 1960s Piano now…. 
My 1952 Kelly has brass hardware. It's also smaller than current hardware. The artisans always lose their minds over it. I love how it looks, wish it were an option for SO.
Would be very interesting to see a pic if you were so inclined
This sounds about right to me, though I believe Ruthenium, Brushed Gold, and Brushed Palladium came before Permabrass. I have also seen what I believe is Brushed Brass dating back to before the 1980s, which would mean it also preceded the introduction of Gold plated brass hardware. As you mentioned, after Permabrass, Rose Gold plated hardware was introduced around 2018 for bags (it was previously available for jewelry).
Another older hardware is Guilloché, which I have seen on some non-quota bags since the very early 1970s. Of course, those early examples would have been solid Brass instead of Gold or Palladium plated. I don’t believe Guilloché for quota bags was available til the early aughts.
Absolutely love learning new facts about Hermes. This was why I joined this forum all those years ago. Thank you!
I'm not near the bag right now but will look for a pic. If I can't find, will take one once I'm back in the USWould be very interesting to see a pic if you were so inclined
No, permabrass isn't brass, it's a light gold, sometimes called "champagne gold" here, see the pic below.
Guilloché is an etched pattern as opposed to a color, here below in palladium but as noted by @r luvs h , also comes in brass and gold. It's a term often used in jewelry; I believe VCA uses guilloché a fair amount.
Edited to add: here is brass hardware on a 1952 "Kelly" (years before Grace would use this bag to hide her baby bump). Sorry for the blur but best photo I have. Bag is in the color then called Gold; we'd call it Noisette.
This bag is older than my mom would be today
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I love the gold tone of the Permabrass so much more than the regular gold hardware. The Guilloché is stunning. Wish they still offered it.I'm not near the bag right now but will look for a pic. If I can't find, will take one once I'm back in the US
No, permabrass isn't brass, it's a light gold, sometimes called "champagne gold" here, see the pic below.
Guilloché is an etched pattern as opposed to a color, here below in palladium but as noted by @r luvs h , also comes in brass and gold.
View attachment 5811132View attachment 5811133
Thank you so much for clarifying what permabrass is to me. I have a matte gator (bordeaux) KP with permabrassI'm not near the bag right now but will look for a pic. If I can't find, will take one once I'm back in the US
No, permabrass isn't brass, it's a light gold, sometimes called "champagne gold" here, see the pic below.
Guilloché is an etched pattern as opposed to a color, here below in palladium but as noted by @r luvs h , also comes in brass and gold. It's a term often used in jewelry; I believe VCA uses guilloché a fair amount.
View attachment 5811132View attachment 5811133
Edited to add: here is brass hardware on a 1952 "Kelly" (years before Grace would use this bag to hide her baby bump). Sorry for the blur but best photo I have. Bag is in the color then called Gold; we'd call it Noisette.
This bag is older than my mom would be today
View attachment 5811195
and always wondered what it was. Thanks again!