Mens SS26 Runway Collection

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ingenieux00

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Jul 27, 2021
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#1
What do we think of the collection shown today? I have to say I was SHOCKED that none of the ready to wear had gigantic logos on it. I'm intrigued by some of the new bag shapes — looks like weekenders, variations on the Nil, and elongated EW type variations of the keepall and there are other surprising pieces like a gym bag with a yoga mat holder and multi-pocket keepall.

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#3
Schitts Creek Comedy GIF by CBC

I'm marked safe 😅
But all jokes aside, it feels to be missing his attitude, his flair, a lil je ne sais quoi, you know. I appreciate the simple aesthetic and lack of logos but it made me feel it could be any other brand potentially. May have to rewatch but there wasn't a calling card I could pinpoint to say that's LV like how Nicolas does oversized. Some of those jackets though, wasn't sure I was watching S/S but then had to catch myself and not be so centered; there's other markets in opposite spaces.
 
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#4
fettfleck said:
I can‘t believe he reused the themed bags Marc Jacobs designed for Wes Anderson‘s Darjeeling Limited (my all time favorite movie and bag set!)! 🤯

I mean I LOVE the bags, but isn‘t this not his to use?

Oh and I love that huge Nile. Men‘s bags always are better than women‘s!
Click to expand...
What is the Nile bag? Do you mean the Nil?
 
#5
S*A*K said:
Schitts Creek Comedy GIF by CBC

I'm marked safe 😅
But all jokes aside, it feels to be missing his attitude, his flair, a lil je ne sais quoi, you know. I appreciate the simple aesthetic and lack of logos but it made me feel it could be any other brand potentially. May have to rewatch but there wasn't a calling card I could pinpoint to say that's LV like how Nicolas does oversized. Some of those jackets though, wasn't sure I was watching S/S but then had to catch myself and not be so centered; there's other markets in opposite spaces.
Click to expand...

Yes, like the U.K. where we mostly live in raincoats and today many colleagues were back in their winter jackets to keep the downpour and driving wind swept rain out 😭
 
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#8
fettfleck said:
I can‘t believe he reused the themed bags Marc Jacobs designed for Wes Anderson‘s Darjeeling Limited (my all time favorite movie and bag set!)! 🤯

I mean I LOVE the bags, but isn‘t this not his to use?

Oh and I love that huge Nile. Men‘s bags always are better than women‘s!
Click to expand...
Same impression here. Half of the bags were Darjeeling. And the rest was also recycled, the bags had Kim Jonesy vibes all over them and even themes from before him.
And maybe I'm old for this, but where is the concept? What is the overarching theme? These hype ""art" directors" (or the actual huge team of designers) throw everything at the wall and see if anything sticks. It was already the case with Virgil, half of the stuff became super coveted, the rest ended up on 24s.
And my instinct tells me that Pharrell spent more time on the background music than the actual designs. And even the music was recycled, that Superman theme by John Williams there, hello?
His very first show felt impressive, but since then it's P9 Speedies again and again and just random stuff.
 
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#9
BULL said:
Same impression here. Half of the bags were Darjeeling. And the rest was also recycled, the bags had Kim Jonesy vibes all over them and even themes from before him.
And maybe I'm old for this, but where is the concept? What is the overarching theme? These hype ""art" directors" (or the actual huge team of designers) throw everything at the wall and see if anything sticks. It was already the case with Virgil, half of the stuff became super coveted, the rest ended up on 24s.
And my instinct tells me that Pharrell spent more time on the background music than the actual designs. And even the music was recycled, that Superman theme by John Williams there, hello?
His very first show felt impressive, but since then it's P9 Speedies again and again and just random stuff.
Click to expand...
Apparently the theme was “modern day Indian sartorialism” according to Hypebeast but I didn’t get that at all. I also didn’t see Darjeeling Limited so had no clue those were recycled!

I do love the tailoring, but agree this felt a little bit like Pharrell doesn’t have a strong enough POV to carry a runway show. That, or he got some heavy handed direction from the Arnaults.
 
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#11
ingenieux00 said:
Apparently the theme was “modern day Indian sartorialism” according to Hypebeast but I didn’t get that at all. I also didn’t see Darjeeling Limited so had no clue those were recycled!
Click to expand...
Oh you have to watch that movie. It is my favorite from the Wes Anderson ones! A visual explosion and the luggage set symbolized the emotional baggage the three brothers which the film is about are lugging around. 😄

I actually already thought the men‘s resort bags were heavily influenced by the Darjeeling Safari bag set (the embroidered blue dog bags!).
Now I know it really stems from them…

Apparently they thought enough time might have passed that peeps might have forgotten about them? 🙄 But noooo such an iconic design!

However, having a bad conscience because I still want one of those bags and am a huge MJ aera fan…

Edit: Read somewhere Pharrell did referenced the bags origin.
 
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