Cutting-edge designer Marc Jacobs opened his much-anticipated show last night with a tableaux of 56 models in costumes that suggested old Hollywood glamour. There were lots of drop-waist knife-pleated skirts, high-heeled oxford shoes and sexy ribbed sweaters. Nearly every model wore wide-brimmed picture hats, cloches or fedoras and many wore elbow length gloves and carried crocodile clutch bags. The fall collection marked a sharp U-turn from a year ago, when Mr. Jacobs updated grunge, swaddling his models in heavy layers of sportswear and thick platform boots and shoes. Marc sets the tone and leads the pack in New York, declares luxury goods consultant Robert Burke. He has this sixth sense that what is coming next. He has all the elementsa cult following, a New York sensibility and a hip factor. And even though he is now in his forties, he remains young at heart. Since the early 1990s, the designer has made his mark with his innovative take on fashion, from 1940s vintage, to grunge and librarian chic, for his namesake line. Since 1997, he has also served as creative director for Louis Vuitton, the $5 billion-a-year luxury locomotive, which he is credited with making cool and cutting edge. Before the show at New York State Armory, where the audience of about 1,000 people waited an hour and a half for the show to start, Robert Duffy, co-founder of the Marc Jacobs brands, said he was now thoroughly satisfied, after he and Mr. Jacobs renegotiated their contracts in 2004 with Paris-based LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton, which owns the Marc Jacobs label. Messrs. Duffy and Jacobs have toiled for more than 20 years most of them fitful to push the Marc Jacobs label into the forefront of American fashion with a network of stores. Now, LVMH is making it possible for Marc Jacobs and Marc by Marc Jacobs boutiques to open in London, Savannah, Ga., Tokyo and Chicago. Weve been moving ahead fast in these past years, said Mr. Duffy beaming. We now have the CEO we want; we have people around us who support us, and its been smooth sailing. He and Mr. Jacobs have been working like crazy, and were having a good time.