This has been copied from my upcoming book and 50 years of retail experience:
The simplest approach to cleaning diamonds:
- Add a dash of ammonia and dish washing detergent to a third of a cup of boiling or very hot water. Adding the ammonia and detergent will drop the temperature enough to not cause damage to any natural untreated diamonds. First put a plug in the sink as sometimes a claw has worn or broken off and dirt is the only thing holding a diamond in its setting. Large diamonds can suffer heat shock and can break, so slowly lower the back of the band in over several seconds so the diamond warms up. Very long diamonds and long crystal gems like tourmaline can snap in half when heat expands one end faster than the other end.
- Scrub with a stiff toothbrush (keep one with your ammonia). Ignore internet advice to use a soft brush, the stiff bristles soften when hot and plastic can never scratch or damage metals or gems! Scrub underneath the setting and behind gems as well as through the sides of the settings; the dirt and grease on pavilions is the main culprit in reducing the brilliance and sparkle.
- Add rubies and sapphires next when the temperature has dropped and the cleaning solution has cooled enough for you to just leave your finger in. It’s best to remove any diamonds beforehand to reduce the chance of softer gems being scratched.
- Clean chains and tennis bracelets regularly as the dirt is the abrasive that causes the wear with lots of tiny links rubbing on each other.
- Add other gems later when the temperature decreases, making sure you can leave your finger in the warm solution.
- Emeralds are very often dipped in oils or waxes to fill cracks and improve both appearance and durability (practiced since Roman times). So no swimming and no very hot solvent solutions. It’s best to use the toothbrush dipped in the lukewarm cleaning solution, scrub and warm water rinse.
- Pearls and opals should not be subjected to heat. Both love water but do not get the string in a strand of pearls wet. Rub gently with a warm damp cloth.
- Peridot and glass-filled gems (like cheap tourist rubies) should not be left in the solution for an extended time as they will react chemically.
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The peridot on the left has been attacked by mild cleaning chemicals. One of the two fracture filled rubies has had lemon juice applied overnight which has etched the lead glass filler. Before they were a matched pair.
Diamonds, rubies, and sapphires transfer heat very rapidly and are the least likely to crack suffer heat shock. Dry with a tissue or soft, clean, lint free cloth. You can then safely use a hair dryer on a warm setting for diamonds, rubies and sapphires.
Never use toothpaste! It will leave a white film on the pavilions of your diamonds and has no cleaning benefit at all other than being an abrasive that can polish the band slightly.
Gin and other alcoholic spirits will dissolve grease and oils but not as well as a hot ammonia and detergent solution.
Paint sticks to diamonds really well and you may need a paint solvent after DIY renovations.
Never put the cleaning solution in a saucepan and heat on the stove. I have seen far too many destroyed jewels because your best friend called you for a chat. Bring the boiling water to the cup!
If you have an ultrasonic cleaner, use the same process but with just a bearably finger hot solution. The transducer that makes the buzzing sound is glued on and excessive heat will unstick it and make your cleaner lose its effectiveness. Even the little cheap vibrating ones for les than $15 work really well.
A steam cleaner is great for a final rinse and also for removing grime between tight spaces of a setting and the gems. This is often a problem with tapered Tiffany style settings where the prongs are in direct contact with the diamond pavilion. After the previous process a blast of steam behind the gems does wonders. Some espresso coffee maker milk steamers will even do the trick.
From time to time have your jewels professionally cleaned and the prongs and settings checked. A good jeweler will have a powerful ultrasonic and steam cleaner and will also alert you to any damage to diamonds and gems.
Finally my personal HUSBAND advice tip. Rather than sit in the car honking the horn while she is adding makeup or whatever takes that long before heading out to dinner with friends, go and clean her jewels.
