I can’t help but wonder why…

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Molly0

O.G.
Feb 8, 2012
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I always wonder why it is that these full grain, glove tanned, vintage leather bags that have been stashed away in boxes and basements for a decade (or more) can be revived & beautified with a simple bath and a conditioning treatment ? Just what is it that makes it seem impossible that anyone can duplicate the quality of this leather? Even those companies charging thousands of dollars to put together a leather bag?

Was it something to do with the cows ? Was it the tanning process ? Is it that “time” itself has somehow magically improved the texture of this leather ? Does production in China have something to do with it?

Every time I thrift a “find” of one of these older bags and witness the magic of bringing it back to life I ask myself these questions.

So, what do you say?
 
I always wonder why it is that these full grain, glove tanned, vintage leather bags that have been stashed away in boxes and basements for a decade (or more) can be revived & beautified with a simple bath and a conditioning treatment ? Just what is it that makes it seem impossible that anyone can duplicate the quality of this leather? Even those companies charging thousands of dollars to put together a leather bag?

Was it something to do with the cows ? Was it the tanning process ? Is it that “time” itself has somehow magically improved the texture of this leather ? Does production in China have something to do with it?

Every time I thrift a “find” of one of these older bags and witness the magic of bringing it back to life I ask myself these questions.

So, what do you say?

Not everyone recognizes the quality and style of vintage Coach bags.

Someone once told me that this authentic Ivy Laurel Bag 4112 must be a fake because it didn't look like other Coach bags that she was used to seeing.

Laural_4412_Ivy_006.jpg
 
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As has been pointed out in different places and above, Coach used the entire hide for the staple styles of the vintage bags, esp from the 80's and 90's. I believe they must have carefully decided how to best tan the hides. As the lore goes, Miles Cahn was inspired by the durability and quality of baseball glove leather. And getting it down to a science! Hence the term, "glove-tanned". So I can see him and his staff, researching the tanning and dying process of the quality full grain leather used in top of the line baseball gloves. And then going to the best leather hide suppliers and using quality ingredients/products to process/dye the leather. And then highly skilled craftspeople constructing the bags.
And I agree. I have dunked (aka cleaned and conditioned/refurbished) dozens of bags made in the late '80s and '90s. Some were very very worn and or stained. The level of restoration speaks to the high quality of the piece of leather and the process used to tan and color it.
My opinion is that certainly Coach did not invent the idea of using the entire cowhide for leather goods, but it would seem to me, Coach/Miles or Lillian Cahn (or whomever on the staff) really elevated the idea by going all out for high quality (of the hide, process and construction). I would not be surprised if the fashion industry back in the day privately or publicly scoffed at the Cahns marketing the idea of using humble baseball glove for fashionable ladies handbags.
 
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Can a bag today that is beaten up also be revived like that?
Do you mean bags being currently made, or from the past few years? For sure, it is not likely they can be restored the way a lot of vintage Coach can. You can always ask on the Rescue/Rehab thread to see anyone has had luck with reviving Coach bags, newer and vintage.
Go to the Clubhouse subforum, Rescue/Rehab thread. And check out the before/after pics of what members here have done with vintage Coach bags ;)
 
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The Coach Screed was also good….

The first time I read this I was stunned. It took a while but I learned so much. In addition to @Molly0 's question I think that it's not only the thicker hide or the lack of vinyl coating but a bag that is well loved and worn also has a glossy patina. You don't have that on new bags. Just as men and fine wine, some things get better in time.
 
Not everyone recognizes the quality and style of vintage Coach bags.

Someone once told me that this authentic Ivy Laurel Bag 4112 must be a fake because it didn't look like other Coach bags that she was used to seeing.

View attachment 5366651
One of things that amazed me after I found tPF and the Coach forum was the number of different styles of vintage Coach made, including the several lines that were not made with the original weight full grain hide! Seeing all the bags and catalog pics was amazing.
It is frustrating :frown: that people are calling out bags as fake because their knowledge base is so limited.
 
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