Published in FORBES on 12/11/2015
Since taking over the creative reins at Louis Vuitton, designer Nicholas Ghesquière has been riding the brand into a new era, while still keeping to codes of the house, which are built upon the sale of luxury carryalls. After all, Louis Vuitton did start as travel accessories line in 1854. His predecessor, Marc Jacobs, was certainly adept at creating a buzz around his collections, collaborating with the most noted names in the art world, and borrowing from various styles throughout history. Profits soared and the masses took notice. But Ghesquière has taken a seemingly different, perhaps wiser, approach. Instead of playing to nostalgia season after season, he is forming a defined aesthetic that is equal parts trendy and timeless. Where Jacobs was traveling to the past, Ghesquière is traveling to the future.
This sensibility materializes with the bags Ghesquière has introduced since his debut at the maison in 2014namely, the Petite Malle, GO-14 PM, and Twist. They all have facets that draw on the brands classic trunks, but, generally, nothing appears antiquated about them. Unlike Vuittons successful stable of stylesthe Alma, Capucines, Speedy, and Neverfull (all great in their own right)Ghesquières offerings are much more electrified, and fit better with the time.
The compact, unfussy silhouettes speak more to the modern woman, one who doesnt need to carry so many items, as everything she needs is on her iPhone. The shapes (from the Petite Malles box to GO-14 PMs curves) also lend themselves to adaptability: you can go from boardroom to bar without changing your accessory, and looking out of place. Factor in the adjustable straps, modernized LV logo, and the array of colors, patterns and fabrics, and these new styles may become just as iconic and remunerative as the bags found at other labelslike Fendis Baguette, Diors Miss Dior, Chanels 2.55. To whit: theyll certainly last well beyond Ghesquières tenure at the label, which hopefully wont happen any time soon.
Since taking over the creative reins at Louis Vuitton, designer Nicholas Ghesquière has been riding the brand into a new era, while still keeping to codes of the house, which are built upon the sale of luxury carryalls. After all, Louis Vuitton did start as travel accessories line in 1854. His predecessor, Marc Jacobs, was certainly adept at creating a buzz around his collections, collaborating with the most noted names in the art world, and borrowing from various styles throughout history. Profits soared and the masses took notice. But Ghesquière has taken a seemingly different, perhaps wiser, approach. Instead of playing to nostalgia season after season, he is forming a defined aesthetic that is equal parts trendy and timeless. Where Jacobs was traveling to the past, Ghesquière is traveling to the future.
This sensibility materializes with the bags Ghesquière has introduced since his debut at the maison in 2014namely, the Petite Malle, GO-14 PM, and Twist. They all have facets that draw on the brands classic trunks, but, generally, nothing appears antiquated about them. Unlike Vuittons successful stable of stylesthe Alma, Capucines, Speedy, and Neverfull (all great in their own right)Ghesquières offerings are much more electrified, and fit better with the time.
The compact, unfussy silhouettes speak more to the modern woman, one who doesnt need to carry so many items, as everything she needs is on her iPhone. The shapes (from the Petite Malles box to GO-14 PMs curves) also lend themselves to adaptability: you can go from boardroom to bar without changing your accessory, and looking out of place. Factor in the adjustable straps, modernized LV logo, and the array of colors, patterns and fabrics, and these new styles may become just as iconic and remunerative as the bags found at other labelslike Fendis Baguette, Diors Miss Dior, Chanels 2.55. To whit: theyll certainly last well beyond Ghesquières tenure at the label, which hopefully wont happen any time soon.