Hermès Spring/Summer 2022 RTW and Accessories

By Sarah Mower: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022-ready-to-wear/hermes#review

"Who else but Hermès could arrange to land a plane as part of their finale? The reveal of the runway from the (fashion) runway happened all the way out at Le Bourget airport—the climax of a show which Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski planned as an immersive experience conveying optimism, the sun and hope.

At first, we’d been enclosed in a cylindrical installation, with a panorama of mobile panels of sunshine yellow—hand-painted color-fields by the artist Flora Moscovici which were gliding slowly around the perimeter as models walked. It provided a calming backdrop for viewing the collection which was, on one level, “about solar glow and how positive it is,” and, on another, about Vanhee-Cybulski’s thoughts on how women will want to dress for re-entering the world.

“I think that has changed,” she said. “For me it’s really about clothes that enable you to move freely. I think it’s not about going to anything too casual—I think it’s about making an effort, but also the ability to move within your clothes.”

In pursuit of that balance between practicality, comfort and sensuality, she landed on shapes that combined drawstring waists and structured bra tops, athletic, cutaway shoulders and easy plissé bottoms. Believe it or not, the crop-top and baggy pants—the trend invented and worn by teenagers all over the world since summer 2020—has traveled all the way up to the heights of Hermès. In its most ultra-sophisticated of forms, of course.

Super-refined pale, buttery yellow/orange pieces in insanely-crafted leather and matching knitwear were at the core of this collection—the sunny part. There was an astonishing collarless coat, miniskirt and crop-top that were made from an intricate tessellation of cut-out tan leather rectangles—which had then been embroidered onto a sheer gauze background. Other, darker leathers transmitted a definite batsqueak of sexuality: a corseted dress, minimal shifts, a black leather pant suit; a pair of leather overalls with nothing underneath.

All of this was subsumed into a collection made with all the attention to craftsmanship that belongs to the house: the tiny metallic ‘pearl’ studs hammered into leather panels; the eyelets which refer to Hermès horse-tack heritage; the new cylindrical bags with horse bit handles.

Ironically, it was raining dreadfully in Paris as Vanhee-Cybulski unveiled her smart understanding of the lifestyle of the Hermès woman. It made for a long, unglamorous drive back into the city for most people. But thinking of next summer, it wasn’t at all hard to imagine the kind of customers who’ll be packing all this when they fly off to the sun."
 
I feel like the lighting guy called out sick… this is frustrating.
Right?!?! Part of me wonders if the decision to open the doors to the outside at the end of the show was spontaneous just so that we could actually see what everything looked like. Probably not, but I had fun imagining two stage hands conspiring together: "You know what we should do..."
 
  • Haha
Reactions: Etriers
The only piece I was drawn to was this structural jacket with the drawstring(?) cinched back, but I wish it wasn't such a boring colourway :sad:

00012-Hermes-Spring-22-RTW-Paris-credit-Gorunway.jpg
I liked that too BUT I did wonder how boxy and unflattering it would look worn by most 'normal' women.
It appears to stop at the Hip bone most women's widest point.
I personally would rather it was either shorter to show the waist (ie: cropped bolero style) or longer to give a more lean silhouette.
I have a degree in fashion design and have worked as a stylist since graduation so I always try and look beyond the show styling and visualise the cut and proportion of the garment both on the hanger and styled with other things (boring I know to think this way :biggrin: )
I thought many of the looks would be unflattering on most women I'm afraid.
Speaking for myself and what I would like to wear I LOVED the leather trimmed brick red patch pocket coat, The wide legged leather pants, Leather 'apron' skirt worn over silk tunic and the leather sock sandals-I also liked the leather dungarees but knew the proportions would be totally wrong on me (too long in body, pockets in the wrong place etc etc) and I'd look like I was goin' fishing in borrowed rubber waders.
Truth is Hermes RTW (the items I want anyway) is over my budget so i'll have to wait for Sale or things to appear pre-loved.
Looking at this show did make me miss The days of Margiela -I loved his RTW vision for the house.
And JPG too.
 
Last edited:
Now the static presentation is interesting - veering from some whimsical ladies handbags to a nightmarish horse-drawn carriage scarf in the gentlemen's collection. Interested in a closer look at the Birkin pouch too ( not it's official name I hasten to add just how it looks to me). And seemingly the army of cat ladies will be happy with the reinvigorated Tigre Royal too! Happier with next season despite the - erm - difficult catwalk show than this season already.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Etriers