I used to collect 60's gold rings that were made to resemble sea anemones, coral polyps, and sea creatures, etc. They didn't cost much at that time, they were considered scrap b/c this was the 80s where classical elegant jewelry was gaining ascendency. I think I posted a picture of Andrew Grima's work. He loved texturizing rings so they looked like icicles, or perhaps stalagmites. Wish I could think of some more designs. In contrast, Elizabeth Locke, Elizabeth Gage, Seiden Gang, Bulgari etc. were doing tranquil classical designs like intaglios set in bright yellow gold. (Cigar band rings were around then, too). These were beautiful rings.
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Here are some examples of Grima rings on Etsy
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Courtesy 1st Dibs
Here is vintage Seiden Gang, Etsy
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Here is vintage Elizabeth Locke
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I want to point out the micro-mosaic on the left which is very very classical. The Victorians went thru a classical phase emphasizing timelessness (transcending time) or stability, no change.
I can't quite make out the center charm. The one on the right could be said to reference the Esthetic phase of art which was greatly influenced by Japonaiserie motifs and culture (a trend also influencing Van Gogh). Grima's vision was nature, specifically natural forms, a totally different emphasis.
Simply put, I didn't have the best examples of Grima-style natural effects. And while I liked Victorian, it was hard to access beyond sentimental sterling silver lockets. Sooo, the sterling lockets called out for more silver jewelry. And there was Hermes. I've been pretty consistent in liking their silver jewelry.
Still like it. It's more wearable than exquisite gold jewelry. Silver jewelry has a casual vibe I believe Elsa Peretti was expressing for Tiffany.
Wow, this was a bit of a detailed essay. Hope you like it, Fabfashion! Elizabeth Locke piece courtesy of the The Definitive Collection.