I am the same size as you. I have three of these style belts from Hermes:
85 to wear through jeans' loops (medium to low rise) -- I could wear this on true waist but it requires looping the extra material around and a lot of extra holes.
78 with some extra holes punched in to wear only at true waist
80 to wear both ways (I chose this because it's a different strap width from the other two and I only have one in this width and only one buckle for it). I can wear this with jeans that are not too low-rise, if I wear it on the last hole. I had some extra holes put in and can wear this on my true waist, e.g. with dresses, as well, but it still has some extra material to loop around. The 78 was better for this purpose.