Gucci Spring/Summer 2020

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  1. #1 Sep 22, 2019
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2019
    5 Things to Know About Gucci SS20
    23 SEPTEMBER 2019

    _FIO0644.jpg © Photo: Filippo Fior /,Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.c

    Gucci’s recent pledge to become a carbon-neutral company sent ripples of approval through the industry: it was the first time a major house has pointedly acknowledged the increasingly destructive effect the fashion industry is having on the planet. Earlier this month, CEO Marco Bizzarri released a statement expressing that “A new era of corporate accountability is upon us," and accordingly announced that the company will partner with the UN project Redd+ on four projects to support forest conservation in Peru, Kenya, Indonesia and Cambodia, and will offset all greenhouse gas emissions annually from its own operations and its supply chain. That includes its spring/summer 2020 show – and the invitations, which, in a serious departure from previous Michele extravagances, comprised small, pale blue, recycled paper slips. Here’s everything else you need to know about the Gucci show.

    _FIO0343.jpg © Photo: Filippo Fior /,Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.c
    The show was carbon-neutral, with an emphasis on recycling and reusing
    Energy-efficient LED lights, recyclable paper invitations, a set that will be reused to dress windows after the show, a carbon-offset programme for the guests who flew in which dictates the planting of several thousand trees – Gucci is making serious strides towards improving its environmental credentials. And if you’re wondering why Bizzarri didn’t just cancel the catwalk show and stage a digital-only presentation, it’s because he doesn’t feel the company can do justice to its narrative without an immersive physical experience. “At the moment for me the level of technology is not yet there, so the [show] is the best way to present the ideas of a luxury fashion house like ours,” he told The Guardian.

    © Photo: Filippo Fior /,Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.c
    The show space administered red light therapy
    Stars on the ceiling glowed red, transforming a clinical Gucci show space into a photographic darkroom-cum-Bluebeard’s-Castle-torture-chamber bathed in red light, as guests took their places on plastic hospital seating facing a conveyor belt runway. Suddenly, the lights flashed from red to bright white. “This is the way to do it,” thumped the soundtrack, as industrial metal roller shutters went up on arched doorways, spitting out models on a conveyor belt.

    © Photo: Filippo Fior /,Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.c
    The opening sequence was a comment on “normative dress”
    The opening sequence of looks sparked serious surprise from seasoned Gucci showgoers – with not a single sequin, bow, badge or logo to be found. In their place? A series of 60 blank beige and ivory cotton and canvas smocks that resembled strait-jackets, worn by barefoot, make-up free models looking for all the world as though they were fresh out of an asylum. These “blank clothes”, according to Gucci, represented “uniforms, utilitarian clothes, the normative dress dictated by society and those who control it” and were designed to show “how through fashion, power is exercised over life, to eliminate self-expression and curb identity”.

    © Photo: Filippo Fior /,Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.c
    The mood was more restrained and pared back than in previous seasons
    Once the “blank clothes” had passed through the show space, out came a noticeably cleaned up version of Alessandro Michele’s signature aesthetic for Gucci. The 1970s staples were still there – wide-lapel suits, corduroy, Cuban-heeled boots, platform shoes, saucer-sized sunglasses, as well as a sprinkling of floor-sweeping, sequined evening gowns and column dresses – but the outlandish decorative accessories (baby dragons spring to mind), fantastical embroideries and more-is-more-is-more approach to getting dressed we’ve come to expect from Michele were relatively dialled down. It seemed to be an exercise in reinforcing the house codes – the horse-bit buckle, the interlocking G monogram – as well as a more sleek, polished aesthetic. As for the collection’s catchphrase? “ Gucci Orgasmique” was repeated across Harrington jackets and on suit cuffs.

    © Photo: Filippo Fior /,Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.c
    There’s a new way to store your Gucci lipstick
    Pocketed Bandolier-style armbands and gloves were strapped to models, holding gold canisters that turned out to be lipsticks from the new Gucci beauty line. It’s not called war paint for nothing.

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  2. Runway Looks
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  3. Continued.
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  4. Continued.
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  5. Continued.
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  6. Continued.
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  7. Continued.
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  8. Continued.
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  9. Final stretch.
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  10. Bags on the runway.
    00005_S01_SS_digital_detail23-credit-Dan-Lecca.jpg 00007_S01_SS_digital_detail15-credit-Dan-Lecca.jpg 00012_S01_SS_digital_detail17-credit-Dan-Lecca.jpg 00013_S01_SS_digital_detail6-credit-Dan-Lecca.jpg 00017_S01_SS_digital_detail20-credit-Dan-Lecca.jpg 00011_S01_SS_digital_detail13-credit-Dan-Lecca.jpg 00020_S01_SS_digital_detail5-credit-Dan-Lecca.jpg 00021_S01_SS_digital_detail11-credit-Dan-Lecca.jpg 00023_S01_SS_digital_detail25-credit-Dan-Lecca.jpg 00024_S01_SS_digital_detail22-credit-Dan-Lecca.jpg
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  11. More bags.
    00030_S01_SS_digital_detail9-credit-Dan-Lecca.jpg 00081_S01_SS_digital_detail4-credit-Dan-Lecca.jpg 00080_S01_SS_digital_detail3-credit-Dan-Lecca.jpg 00067_S01_SS_digital_detail2-credit-Dan-Lecca.jpg 00065_S01_SS_digital_detail7-credit-Dan-Lecca.jpg 00058_S01_SS_digital_detail1-credit-Dan-Lecca.jpg 00055_S01_SS_digital_detail14-credit-Dan-Lecca.jpg 00045_S01_SS_digital_detail24-credit-Dan-Lecca.jpg 00043_S01_SS_digital_detail12-credit-Dan-Lecca.jpg 00035_S01_SS_digital_detail16-credit-Dan-Lecca.jpg
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  12. 1955 Horsebit bags for SS20.
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  13. Backstage photos. Credit to Corey Tenold.
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  14. More backstage by Corey Tenold.
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  15. Resee pics. Credit to Instyle Magazine IG. instylemagazine - B2xUN3nAhqj_B2xUN1CAprH.jpg instylemagazine - B2xUN3nAhqj_B2xUN1BAQx7.jpg instylemagazine - B2xUN3nAhqj_B2xUN1DAwew.jpg instylemagazine - B2xUN3nAhqj_B2xUN1Dgc5T.jpg instylemagazine - B2xUN3nAhqj_B2xUN1CgWhg.jpg
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