Engagement ring questions... all you wanted to know!! JUST ASK!
- Thread starter Peaches23
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I haven't decided on a diamond yet. We just worry about buying one online because we don't get to see it until we buy it and also financing isn't available at least not on the sites I looked at. We would like to buy from somewhere that has financing. We don't have 8,000 just lying around or 8,000 credit to purchase this online(I wish we did!). I would like to have a hearts and arrow diamond, near colorless but i'm not sure if you can purchase these in stores. With the inclusions is it better to get a near colorless diamond, excellent/ideal cut, with more inclusions or should you not skimp on the inclusions? What would the least quality of inclusions you would reccommend? the inclusion part is what I am not too familiar with.
My e-ring is VS2 (very small inclusions). Inclusions are not visible to the naked eye and I must say it's uniformly brilliant, no cloudiness. I guess if you wanted a large stone, you could go down to SI (small inclusion) and get a larger stone for $8K. Less inclusions would give you a smaller but more "ideal" stone.
I would not go down to I2-3 (inclusions) clarity tho... on my anni band, the color is G, however the inclusions make my diamonds seem a little cloudy. I do not mind it, but I'm sure placed next to one of fewer inclusions, it would look obviously included.
I would not go down to I2-3 (inclusions) clarity tho... on my anni band, the color is G, however the inclusions make my diamonds seem a little cloudy. I do not mind it, but I'm sure placed next to one of fewer inclusions, it would look obviously included.
Hi Peaches! Congrats on your upcoming (?) engagement. Yes, Hearts & Arrows stones can be found in stores. You might want to check with some of your local retailers to see what they have and what their financing options are. Some jewelers will still do layaway, while others have financing through companies like Wells Fargo.
As far as your question about the inclusions, it's entirely up to you and your fiance. Diamonds are completely different for each person. Some people (like myself) are very sensitive to color, and want a whiter stone, so they compromise a little on the clarity. Depending on the stone size you're looking at, you might be able to purchase a 1-1.5 ct with SI clarity that's eye-clean (meaning no inclusions are visible to the naked eye). Other people are really bothered by the idea of inclusions, so they sometimes sacrifice color to gain better clarity. There's no right or wrong answer--just what matters most to you.
I believe that well-cut stones can often appear brighter and sometimes more eye-clean, so you might want to compare different cuts of diamonds with similar characteristics to see whether that's true for you. The one thing that I've heard from many people, both customers and jewelers, is never to compromise on the cut. That doesn't always mean that you must buy the expensive "branded" cut (like Hearts & Arrows) but that you don't sacrifice on cut to get better color or clarity. Make sure to stick to well-known grading labs like GIA, AGS, and EGL also.
Best of luck to you!
As far as your question about the inclusions, it's entirely up to you and your fiance. Diamonds are completely different for each person. Some people (like myself) are very sensitive to color, and want a whiter stone, so they compromise a little on the clarity. Depending on the stone size you're looking at, you might be able to purchase a 1-1.5 ct with SI clarity that's eye-clean (meaning no inclusions are visible to the naked eye). Other people are really bothered by the idea of inclusions, so they sometimes sacrifice color to gain better clarity. There's no right or wrong answer--just what matters most to you.
I believe that well-cut stones can often appear brighter and sometimes more eye-clean, so you might want to compare different cuts of diamonds with similar characteristics to see whether that's true for you. The one thing that I've heard from many people, both customers and jewelers, is never to compromise on the cut. That doesn't always mean that you must buy the expensive "branded" cut (like Hearts & Arrows) but that you don't sacrifice on cut to get better color or clarity. Make sure to stick to well-known grading labs like GIA, AGS, and EGL also.
Best of luck to you!
Thank you!!!
I will have to check with the jeweler on what the cut is on the diamond we were looking at. I know it was a 1 ct., E color, SI1 with no visable inclusions... I will have to have my bf see what the cut is on that stone.. I am basically leaving up the rest to him now that I picked out the setting. I know he is planning on asking me in a few months...We've been dating for 4 1/2 years. This is getting soooo exciting!!! wooohoo
I will have to check with the jeweler on what the cut is on the diamond we were looking at. I know it was a 1 ct., E color, SI1 with no visable inclusions... I will have to have my bf see what the cut is on that stone.. I am basically leaving up the rest to him now that I picked out the setting. I know he is planning on asking me in a few months...We've been dating for 4 1/2 years. This is getting soooo exciting!!! wooohoo
I'd go down to SI2, just make sure it is eye clean. Theoretically, you could find an I1 that is not awful, but you'd need someone to look for one and really evaluate it. More of a needle in a haystack thing for a stone for an e-ring.
Have you thought about dropping in color, to G or H? You'd save some money from E and F colors. It would still be near colorless, if you don't like any warmth in your stones.
Have you thought about dropping in color, to G or H? You'd save some money from E and F colors. It would still be near colorless, if you don't like any warmth in your stones.
i would drop to a g/ si1 if the stone was "right" at that size, the inclusions shouldn't be very visible...it will definitely save some $$$, but it has to be a sparkler
but i would insist on a gia certificate if "dropping" a level or 2...just to make sure you are getting the right specs, wouldn't want to end up looking at a J/ i1
but i would insist on a gia certificate if "dropping" a level or 2...just to make sure you are getting the right specs, wouldn't want to end up looking at a J/ i1