Dooney rehab thread

Not a full rehab, but I have two barely used Emerson Shannon totes. They're clean, but could use some conditioning. Google isn't turning up care directions for me. I'm thinking Apple, just wanted to check if anyone has experience or recommendations. Thanks!
I'm not a rehab expert, but I think the Emerson leather is a coated leather. The Dooney site may have info on the leather, not sure since they changed the site around (upgraded?). I mention this because conditioners and chemicals can interact with coatings on leather and cause problems: cloudiness, discoloration, or other problems.
So see what you can find
out about the leather itself before using even something as gentle as Apple brand.
And test in a hidden spot what ever you decide so that you don't have a nasty surprise.
Good luck.
 
I'm not a rehab expert, but I think the Emerson leather is a coated leather. The Dooney site may have info on the leather, not sure since they changed the site around (upgraded?). I mention this because conditioners and chemicals can interact with coatings on leather and cause problems: cloudiness, discoloration, or other problems.
So see what you can find
out about the leather itself before using even something as gentle as Apple brand.
And test in a hidden spot what ever you decide so that you don't have a nasty surprise.
Good luck.
I can't find a single mention of Emerson or caring for it on Dooney.com, but now that you say it, I remember reading somewhere that it's a type of waxed leather, so I'll start there
 
I can't find a single mention of Emerson or caring for it on Dooney.com, but now that you say it, I remember reading somewhere that it's a type of waxed leather, so I'll start there
I looked also, and couldn't find anything. I remember that Beacon leather and Emerson leather collection seemed to be very similar. But I don't know if that was the leather/treatment itself, or just the feel/appearance. Sometimes Dooney uses different
'names' to collection styling, and sometimes it's related to the leather.

Dooney seems to have removed almost all the care info from the site. And when you
do find it (as part of the listing on a specific handbag), it's important to read what's not being said.... sometimes they say
creams and polishes are not needed and sometimes they say they should not be used.
I know they never recommend conditioning, but that's different than cautioning against
it. Bottom line is they do not want to be responsible in case there is a problem. And it
does make some sense, since they can't know what product will be used and what ingredients it contains.
 
I looked also, and couldn't find anything. I remember that Beacon leather and Emerson leather collection seemed to be very similar. But I don't know if that was the leather/treatment itself, or just the feel/appearance. Sometimes Dooney uses different
'names' to collection styling, and sometimes it's related to the leather.

Dooney seems to have removed almost all the care info from the site. And when you
do find it (as part of the listing on a specific handbag), it's important to read what's not being said.... sometimes they say
creams and polishes are not needed and sometimes they say they should not be used.
I know they never recommend conditioning, but that's different than cautioning against
it. Bottom line is they do not want to be responsible in case there is a problem. And it
does make some sense, since they can't know what product will be used and what ingredients it contains.
Thanks for your help. It's a bit frustrating that Dooney and Bourke seems to take the default position that their bags never benefit from a little attention, when that's pretty obviously not the case.
 
Thanks for your help. It's a bit frustrating that Dooney and Bourke seems to take the default position that their bags never benefit from a little attention, when that's pretty obviously not the case.
Some other brands have their own conditioning products (Coach and Brahmin) come to mind. Then they can test the conditioner on their own leathers and be sure (?) there will be no negative surprises. But even with those brands, we need to do research. I've had sales associates tell me to use their conditioner on all the bags I purchased. When I've looked at the websites, I've found that some of the brands own leathers should not
be conditioned, even by their own label conditioner. Shiny embossed leathers and snake embossed leathers are just a few that I found out should not be conditioned.

That's when I realized that the interaction
of the conditioner (even the brands own product) with various leather treatment might not
always be a good thing. The devil is always in the details.

And care of leather handbags extends beyond conditioning/cleaning but also includes
storage issues. Just because a handbag comes in a plastic bag does not mean it is safe
to store the bag in that bag long term. Or to store the bag in a plastic box. And what
about the cardboard boxes the handbags come in (even the most high end expensive
designer bags)..... is that good for the leather long term? What about the tissue paper?
Will a dark color dust bag cause color transfer if the bag is pressed up against another handbag or a wall? I have lots more questions than answers.

So when I see a handbag that someone has owned that has an issue with the color
or finish, I wonder.... was this a manufacturing defect or was it something the owner
did (while trying to care for the handbag) that just interacted poorly with the leather/dyes/finishing?

And don't get me started on patent leather and the effect of perfume, hairspray,
and other chemicals. Even the most random, single droplet can eat right thru
the coating and color.
 
Not sure if this is a question or just a thank you post for all the information in this thread. I just bought an AWL zip-top satchel on poshmark. Don't think I paid enough attention to the photos to realize how gross the handles were.

I didn't pay a lot for the bag, so I took a flyer and went in with Dawn and a cloth on the leather and used a brush that came with a reusable straw to scrub the grime off the threads. Much less gross now. I mean, there's patina and there's PATINA, if you know what I mean. The finish on the leather pretry much came off with the grime, so I went in with the richest moisturizer I had on hand, which is Sapphir Renovvator.

The listing mentioned that the bag had recently been cleaned and conditioned, so I asked the seller what she used. Her reply is attached. "Cleaned" may be an overstatement. Beyond the handle, there was grime around the medallions that makes me wonder if this bag spent a lot of time in a stable. That comes off with a damp cloth. The bag was reposhed; she only had it for a month, so who knows what's been done to it over the years. Probably a lot if nothing. The AWL looks great, the trim leather is dry and stiff.

Based on this thread, I ordered Leather CPR and Blackrock Fortunately, the seller seems to have used her products sparingly. I think I'll go over it well with a damp cloth before I introduce anything else, especially since she seems to have essentially applied polish over dirt.

It didn't come with a strap, but I was able to buy one from another seller that works. I'm not a big handle carrier, but I wonder if I should add scarves to protect the worn leather. Not sure that's a great aesthetic choice, but it might be best for the health of the leather.
 

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Phew, sorry that got away from me a bit. Based on the condition of the leather, I thunk the CPR and Blackrock will go on the trim only. The AWL would probably enjoy a no-product sponge bath with a soft cloth.
 
Veronica: I'm not a rehab expert, but for Dooney AWL they have said that no conditioning products should be used, ever. Dooney AWL was originally created by shrinking the leather to create the water resistance (hence the duck logo) and the pebbled texture. According to Dooney, any conditioning product will relax the leather, thus interfering with the water resistance and also alter the pebble surface (and the texture/look) in unpredictable ways.

I don't know if the newer AWL 2/3? are created in the same way or if their pebbling and water resistance are created using a different process. But for the vintage/original AWL,
I think you are smart to keep away from any chemicals/products/conditioners on the leather.

Other pebbled leathers are often created by embossing the leather. That's an entirely
different thing and those leather will react differently to conditioners. But AWL is unique
from a leather quality standpoint and also 'manufacturing'.

Hope your new vintage AWL bag regains most of it's former charm and glory.
 
Hope your new vintage AWL bag regains most of it's former charm and glory.
Thanks. This thread is such a treasure trove! Fortunately the AWL on this bag is in great shape. It does have a small ballpoint pen line near one of the handle medallions. It lightened up by about 50% with a few light strokes of a Magic Eraser. Had to rein in my OCD tendencies and leave it at that, since I don't want to create a visible sanded spot. It's only visible to because I know it's there and I'm not planning to sell her, so I'm going to leave the hairspray and Amodex out of it and call it part of her charm.

Now I'm going back through to look at posts about dunking, because I just got a cute black on black that's in great condition aside from having been stored flat

Screenshot_20221002-114316_Mercari.jpg
 
Veronica: I'm not a rehab expert, but for Dooney AWL they have said that no conditioning products should be used, ever. Dooney AWL was originally created by shrinking the leather to create the water resistance (hence the duck logo) and the pebbled texture. According to Dooney, any conditioning product will relax the leather, thus interfering with the water resistance and also alter the pebble surface (and the texture/look) in unpredictable ways.

I don't know if the newer AWL 2/3? are created in the same way or if their pebbling and water resistance are created using a different process. But for the vintage/original AWL,
I think you are smart to keep away from any chemicals/products/conditioners on the leather.

Other pebbled leathers are often created by embossing the leather. That's an entirely
different thing and those leather will react differently to conditioners. But AWL is unique
from a leather quality standpoint and also 'manufacturing'.

Hope your new vintage AWL bag regains most of it's former charm and glory.
But when you have a 40 year old bag that's a bit stiff and the AWL needs SOME care, an application of conditioner to perk it up won't totally undo the AWL or alter the texture. If you do it regularly, it sure will, but I've had my project bags that I just did a light wipe down of conditioner and it did wonders for the surface.

Fortunately, in my experience, it's not often that the AWL needs conditioning as it sure can take a beating. I've got a 40 year old Dooney where the leather was in amazing shape. You'd have no idea it was as old as it is- so soft and supple.
 
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Vintage: that's good to know. I don't personally buy/rehab older handbags....
but.... I like the idea that these treasures can be restored and loved and live on.
The leather used in older Dooney handbags was so thick and the craftsmanship
and construction and styles are worth saving. And it's good for the planet too!
 
Vintage: that's good to know. I don't personally buy/rehab older handbags....
but.... I like the idea that these treasures can be restored and loved and live on.
The leather used in older Dooney handbags was so thick and the craftsmanship
and construction and styles are worth saving. And it's good for the planet too!
Dooney and Coach used amazing leather in bags back then. Holds up well and can take a beating. They're my favorite vintage bags to collect!
 
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