Docride's Hermes vintage bag nightmares & Hermes leather care

[docride]

View attachment 3564189 Hello Docride,

If I may ask you a question, I recently purchased this vintage box Kelly For a very reasonable price and knowing it was not new by any means. Still, I hope with a little tlc to turn her into a beauty. See pic's below, what do you think? I am most worried about the cracking leather on the straps and the difference in color. Should I contition and waterproof and use dye or meltonian with color?

Hello there,
Yes I'd be concerned with the cracks also, you know those aren't going to mend with conditioners or glue... adding dye to a cracking area can often times just stress already stressed leather further... I guess the question is the reasonable price (add it in your head) plus the price of future repairs? Is it still a good deal? If you factored in the cost of the bag plus repairs couldn't you afford a Kelly in better shape? Sometimes or shall I say most of the time that's actually the less expensive option
The next question is how much use do you want to get out of this bag? Its breaking now... will your normal use cause it to further fall apart? Or will you use it gently and you like a shabby chic vintage feel? Some gals can rock this look... some can't. I'm not trying to be mean here truly... But if you aren't 20 something and or an artist or bohemian chic
then it maybe difficult to carry this bag without looking like you just found it in the back of grandmas closet...?
If you have a bag that is vintage and when you open it to get something out and someone throws some change in there for you.. you aren't looking shabby chic you maybe mistaken for a true vagabond... then the bag isn't helping you ... just saying. (hugs)

I do not recommend using colored polish on handbags those shoe polishes are best kept for shoes and boots, in my and many craftsmans opinions.. because colored polishes can slip off on to clothing and hands.. eek...

If you still want to try and save this bag.. and you cant return it.. I recommend cleaning it, a small amount of color restorer on the uneven parts (Tarrago is fine) , deep conditioning (try Meltonian baulm or Tarrago cream or another) and then neutral polish. There are some companies which make a restoration kit for vintage box calf with step by step instructions.. just google. Or get some leather cleaner, and conditioner and neutral polish . or send it to a restoration shop.
good luck
doc

 

[missmabel5]

Hello,
I not longer recommend Blackrock or Obenaufs LP because too many had application problems. On vintage box calf you can use many different conditions and be ok the main thing is to test a hidden area first to make sure you like the results before moving to large visible areas. You could use what you have it shouldn't do any hard though it is not specifically for box calf., a nice light conditioning leather cream or lotion would be best, and avoid any straight oil or fat type products.
OK so you applied a small amount of conditioner or cleanser over old polish I presume? So if you circle marks are not going away with buffing tem you mayb have partially removed the old polish and that the problem? I really cant tell because I cant see... a photo would help.
I'll check back...don't panic... most of these things can be fixed easily enough.
All the best,doc

Doc,
Thank you so much for coming to the rescue! It is really, really kind of you.
I did apply a very small amount (about a pea sized amount) of the cleaner/conditioner (description here), which is pretty light I think and not too fatty, although it is oil based. However, I don't know what I'm putting it on top of, as the bag comes to me pre-owned. I'm not sure if it had polish on it, although I'm pretty certain it hasn't been re-dyed. Nothing came off on my cloth, either in terms of dirt or any residual color.
I have attached some photos, including one of the overall area I polished (I did a little more than a swatch after my initial message, just to see if I could blend in the marks, as I'm not terribly worried about the bottom of the bag, and these are only visible just so in the light). I also included a close up of the whiteish circular marks, and then one of the leather on the front of the bag, so you can compare what the rest looks like. I've marked up the photos to distinguish the marks of the Saphir from the few that were already on the bottom of the bag.

 

[docride]

hi doc how do you protect and/or maintain peau porc pls - the item is a Jige

Hello there,
You can use the following for Peau Porc care ; Meltonian All Purpose, Lexol PH,and most products used for ( even though this is a semi-finished leather) unfinished leathers always test a small hidden area like behind a strap on the back of a strap before continuingon to larger visible areas
Good luck!
doc

 

[docride]

Doc,
Thank you so much for coming to the rescue! It is really, really kind of you.
I did apply a very small amount (about a pea sized amount) of the cleaner/conditioner (description here), which is pretty light I think and not too fatty, although it is oil based. However, I don't know what I'm putting it on top of, as the bag comes to me pre-owned. I'm not sure if it had polish on it, although I'm pretty certain it hasn't been re-dyed. Nothing came off on my cloth, either in terms of dirt or any residual color.
I have attached some photos, including one of the overall area I polished (I did a little more than a swatch after my initial message, just to see if I could blend in the marks, as I'm not terribly worried about the bottom of the bag, and these are only visible just so in the light). I also included a close up of the whiteish circular marks, and then one of the leather on the front of the bag, so you can compare what the rest looks like. I've marked up the photos to distinguish the marks of the Saphir from the few that were already on the bottom of the bag.

Hi there,
OK don't panic
Remember from chemistry classes " like dissolves like " so if you have a way polish on the bag and you use an oily product it often dissolves or partially dissolves the polish below... This might be whats happening. In anycase you are using a product made for oil based unfinshed leathers on a Finished leather so its not optimal at all...
stop using that product now... buff the bag and stop... you can get some cleanser remove the old polish condition the leather and then re-polish with a nice neutral polish.
a Box Calf polishing kit or a Vintage Box Calf spa kit would help you can google to find a ready made kit or get the following items
A polishing brush a shine cloth, leather cleanser, a light leather conditioning lotion, and a good creamy neutral polish tarrago neutral cream is pretty easy to work with... but any decent neutral polish will work Griffin, Meltonian,Saphir,Kelly, Woly etc...
OK? All the best,doc

 

[missmabel5]

Hi there,
OK don't panic
Remember from chemistry classes " like dissolves like " so if you have a way polish on the bag and you use an oily product it often dissolves or partially dissolves the polish below... This might be whats happening. In anycase you are using a product made for oil based unfinshed leathers on a Finished leather so its not optimal at all...
stop using that product now... buff the bag and stop... you can get some cleanser remove the old polish condition the leather and then re-polish with a nice neutral polish.
a Box Calf polishing kit or a Vintage Box Calf spa kit would help you can google to find a ready made kit or get the following items
A polishing brush a shine cloth, leather cleanser, a light leather conditioning lotion, and a good creamy neutral polish tarrago neutral cream is pretty easy to work with... but any decent neutral polish will work Griffin, Meltonian,Saphir,Kelly, Woly etc...
OK? All the best,doc

Yes, that makes sense. Thank you! I didn't realise the Saphir I was using (Nappa Baume) was not a neutral polish. So how can one identify a neutral polish (is that chemically neutral or just colorless)? I have some Cadillac leather cleaner that says "for all leathers" - could I safely use that for the cleaning step? Then use a Cadillac lotion to polish for this round? Am definitely ordering a box calf spa kit for next time! I obviously need the dummies version.

 

[docride]

Yes, that makes sense. Thank you! I didn't realise the Saphir I was using (Nappa Baume) was not a neutral polish. So how can one identify a neutral polish (is that chemically neutral or just colorless)? I have some Cadillac leather cleaner that says "for all leathers" - could I safely use that for the cleaning step? Then use a Cadillac lotion to polish for this round? Am definitely ordering a box calf spa kit for next time! I obviously need the dummies version.

Hello there,
Try the Cadillac cleaner why not? I haven't tried that product but just test a small hidden area like on the back of a strap first make sure everything is good before doing visible areas. and you can follow with a conditioner
and then use a neutral polish / clear polish.
However make sure you apply sparingly and only after the bag is completely dry.. and that you remove ecess and buff with a lint free buffing cloth...
and NOT a microfiber cloth.
You are doing fine.. don't worry no harm done .. all is well.
All the best,doc

 

[maggie.utomo]

Hello sorry for the late reply, ball point ink marks which are just made can sometimes be removed with a soft pink eraser...or some cuticle remover gel carefully...also there are ink killers made specifically for leather... however you may have missing finish as well... so no ink but an area of missings orginal color can sometimes be more of a blemish that the original ink mark was.. then very careful color restoration to the area would need to be performed by an expert or the results may not be good... still I'd ask a professional for help,
Good Luck, doc

Thank you for replying doc.. i tried bringin the bag for service at hermes, ginza tokyo, but they couldnt do anything, exactly like the reason you wrote . Can you please recomend me to a professional that you know?

 

[ThierryH]

Dear Doc, Can you give any suggestions on how to remove a small scratch on an ostrich Kelly? Could I use Creme Saphir (or Creme Saphir Reptan)? Or should it be left untouched and might blend in over time? TIA for any advice.

 

[missmabel5]

Hello there,
Try the Cadillac cleaner why not? I haven't tried that product but just test a small hidden area like on the back of a strap first make sure everything is good before doing visible areas. and you can follow with a conditioner
and then use a neutral polish / clear polish.
However make sure you apply sparingly and only after the bag is completely dry.. and that you remove ecess and buff with a lint free buffing cloth...
and NOT a microfiber cloth.
You are doing fine.. don't worry no harm done .. all is well.
All the best,doc

Thank you again! I've cleaned the whole of the bottom of the bag, the inside flap and back of straps with the Cadillac. It seems to be doing fine and has cleaned off the marks from the Saphir Baume as well as some of the other small marks.

However, I'd be reluctant to use it for the entire bag, as there is a very faint light blue tinge to my white cloth after using, as if it may be lifting a tiny amount of the dye off the bag. There is no visible change in the color or feel of the leather, other than it looking cleaner, but just posting this here in case anyone else is curious about the Cadillac. Unless you think the faint light blue tinge is nothing to worry about, then everyone can ignore me?

I plan to pick up the Saphir Creme Delicate today (based on your description, it seems like it fits the bill for conditioning), as I don't want to leave it "unconditioned" for too long after cleaning, and obviously spa kit has to be shipped. If you have any opinion on the Creme Delicate (i.e. not to use it), please let me know.

And thank you, thank you, for the guidance!

 

[momasaurus]

Doc is the best. She gave me the confidence to home-spa my Rouge H bags today!

 

[docride]

Dear Doc, Can you give any suggestions on how to remove a small scratch on an ostrich Kelly? Could I use Creme Saphir (or Creme Saphir Reptan)? Or should it be left untouched and might blend in over time? TIA for any advice.

Hello there,
I would not use any product which is greasy or oily or even waxy on ostrich... which might leave streaks, blotchiness and darken the color. Which color ostich How bad is the scratch? Remember that creams and polishes don't mend scratches in the leather, they can sometimes help mask them. However with unfinished leathers and semifinished leathers waxes, polishes, oils and greasy products can often times make scratches look darker/worse... and this could well happen with Hermes ostrich as it appears or behaves often like a semi-finished leather. Want to show me a photo? I'll check back
All the best, doc

 

[docride]

Doc is the best. She gave me the confidence to home-spa my Rouge H bags today! View attachment 3569040
View attachment 3569041

Oh look how amazing they look! Excellent job! What gems they are! I love your Rouge H Collection!
Hugs,doc
PS> You can share my bench .... You rock!

 

[docride]

Thank you again! I've cleaned the whole of the bottom of the bag, the inside flap and back of straps with the Cadillac. It seems to be doing fine and has cleaned off the marks from the Saphir Baume as well as some of the other small marks.

However, I'd be reluctant to use it for the entire bag, as there is a very faint light blue tinge to my white cloth after using, as if it may be lifting a tiny amount of the dye off the bag. There is no visible change in the color or feel of the leather, other than it looking cleaner, but just posting this here in case anyone else is curious about the Cadillac. Unless you think the faint light blue tinge is nothing to worry about, then everyone can ignore me?

I plan to pick up the Saphir Creme Delicate today (based on your description, it seems like it fits the bill for conditioning), as I don't want to leave it "unconditioned" for too long after cleaning, and obviously spa kit has to be shipped. If you have any opinion on the Creme Delicate (i.e. not to use it), please let me know.

And thank you, thank you, for the guidance!

Hello there,
Glad to hear you got some of that sorted out .. excellent news!
No I haven't used the saphir delicate, and don't know what is in it...I do know some of their products like the renovant is very greasy and only wonderful for certain leathers.. so do test a small hidden area first... and wait for a bit to make sure you'll be happy with the results before going on to visible areas.
As to a small amount of color on your cloth I wouldn't worry about that at all.... sounds about normal.
All the best,doc

 

[docride]

Thank you for replying doc.. i tried bringin the bag for service at hermes, ginza tokyo, but they couldnt do anything, exactly like the reason you wrote . Can you please recomend me to a professional that you know?

Hello, I would ask around , I would think Japan has some very good hand bag spa shops ... But do make sure they don't spray paint your whole bag!
Some shops will do that... ask around take your time, don't get in a hurry.

NOW THIS IS AN AT YOUR OWN RISK PROCEEDURE > If you were very handy you might just try some cuticle remover gel... apply some to just the ink spot (do NOT rub in) just let it sit on the ink spot for about 1/2 a minute... gently sweep off the gel with a soft tissue.. see if the ink mark is lifting off... if its working repeat... again do NOT rub in. then very carefully and ever so gently sprinkle a bit of water on the area to neutralize the cuticle gel. Allow the area to dry and do NOT pat or rub .... It should have improved the ink spot,
AGAIN Use Extreme caution any rubbing can cause the finish to lift off the leather...and that will mean the area will need to be color corrected

Good luck, doc

 

[ThierryH]

Hello there,
I would not use any product which is greasy or oily or even waxy on ostrich... which might leave streaks, blotchiness and darken the color. Which color ostich How bad is the scratch? Remember that creams and polishes don't mend scratches in the leather, they can sometimes help mask them. However with unfinished leathers and semifinished leathers waxes, polishes, oils and greasy products can often times make scratches look darker/worse... and this could well happen with Hermes ostrich as it appears or behaves often like a semi-finished leather. Want to show me a photo? I'll check back
All the best, doc

Dear Doc, Thank you so much for your input. I think it might be best to just leave the mark alone, I do not want to make it look worse or more obvious. Tried to take a photo with my iPhone but the phone can't capture it, turns out too blurry.