YES!! Amazing!! I remember this one. I also want to mention that I think Maria is a good mix between Galliano and Raf Simons. She has the theatricality of Galliano's Dior and the minimalism of Raf Simons so I think that Maria's work at Dior will feel very nostalgic yet very rejuvenating and fresh at the same time.
Dior's First Lady! Maria Grazia Chiuri hired as artistic director of Christian Dior
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YES!! Amazing!! I remember this one. I also want to mention that I think Maria is a good mix between Galliano and Raf Simons. She has the theatricality of Galliano's Dior and the minimalism of Raf Simons so I think that Maria's work at Dior will feel very nostalgic yet very rejuvenating and fresh at the same time.
I think that was it. Even I could tell he wasn't trying to innovate as much (I was a fan of his), especially with his very last RTW collection for Dior which I thought looked a bit "lazy".
I agree! His very first collection, Fall/Winter 2012 Haute Couture was quite amazing...but then everything gradually fell downhill. I think it just wasn't meant to be for him. He looked like he was hating his job from the beginning. In the documentary "Dior And I" he was already having so much trouble with his first collection. He's a quiet and calm man, very low key. Being designer at Dior is the total opposite, you need to be more of a bashful, and bright person because you're in the spotlight at all times since Dior is one of the biggest and most iconic brands. He just couldn't handle it. And that's totally fine, I'm glad he left before things got even worse for him.
I agree. I originally saw the documentary at the theater when Raf had not announced his departure yet and thought that he must have gotten more comfortable with his job by now. But then the announcement came, and it was clear that he still had the same feelings toward the end. He expressed several complaints throughout the documentary that I thought were pretty standard in the fashion industry, including the atelier running late for a preview/fitting, premieres being unavailable because they are helping clients, and walking down the runway at the end of the show.
Even though I loved some of the pieces that he designed at Dior, I'm actually much happier about his departure now that I know that Maria Graza Chiuri was appointed. Her familiarity with the pressures of a historic couture house means that she is less likely to leave the house after her first contract is up. I don't think Dior can take news like this again as it can tarnish the reputation of the house. The Dior designer job would go from being the job that everyone wanted to the job that no one wants.
Yes! I feel the exact same way. I think she has much better skill than Raf. I'm super happy with the outcome too. But yeah if something like this were to happen again then Dior would be going down big time. I don't think we have to worry though, I think Dior will be in good hands for a long time.
She is the most appropriate choice, even better than Sarah Burton and Alber Elbaz because she actually has experience with Haute Couture and yet her pairing with Pierpaolo Piccioli means that her solo career will still be full of surprises. We have seen a full range of what Alber Elbaz can do over his long tenure at Lanvin. And she left Valentino at a time when her track record is stellar, producing one of the most profitable couture houses in the last decade.
Seeing that Jonathan Saunders was chosen for Diane Von Furstenberg (he was at one point the most likely candidate by insider sources), and that Dior chose Chiuri instead, it was clear that Dior wanted to move in a different direction again, away from the aesthetic of Raf Simons. Jonathan Saunders would have brought more of Raf's modernist aesthetic to the house had he been appointed, and I think Dior wanted to return to the romantic years under Galliano where the collections made women dream (but under the skilled hands of Chiuri who is also as practical as she is imaginative).
These are exciting times for Dior. Now I can't wait to see her first RTW collection!!!
I honestly do not know enough regarding designers, and pardon me if I sound ignorant... I'm certainly not down playing the talents of Raf Simons or Maria Grazia Chiuri here, but I actually think the current team (without a so-called artistic director) at Dior did a equally wonderful job with the latest Haute Couture collection, they are so 'Dior', dreamy and yet so wearable. I hope the team behind the scene is given just as enough credit and recognition and not just to the artistic director 'leading' the house.
You are absolutely right!!! I feel Dior wanted to return to the glitzy, romantic years too. That's why I was worried when the rumors of Olivier Rousteing taking over, I'm not a fan of his work at Balmain...at all, but they do fit the glam/romantic aesthetic.
Phoebe Philo was a contender too. But I love Celine under Phoebe's hands too much so I'm glad she's not at Dior, and she would've continued Raf's legacy in the same way Jonathan Saunders would have. I feel the minimal aesthetic at Dior has been over done, especially with Raf's last few collections, they kind of ruined the minimal/modern aesthetic for me. (btw I'm excited to see Saunders at DVF since he is known for his prints, a big thing that DVF is known for too).
Maria is perfect. She truly understands women...because she is one! I just hope Dior doesn't take a beating because of all the changes again, I can only imagine how the Atelier workers must feel from the constant changes since Galliano's departure. Maria is Dior's only saving grace right now. I hope she pulls a Karl Lagerfeld and stays there forever. She brought Valentino to the sky and she has the potential to make Dior soar even higher. I am praying she does.
They were indeed pretty, I just felt they were a bit lacking compared to what these collections could have been with a designer. The collections could have had more "substance" (not sure if that is the right word). I just wish they had a more elaborate and creative theme. For a team without a designer though, I will admit, the collections are REALLY good! But if Dior kept going like this without a designer I feel like everything would've been very repetitive and people would've been tired of it.
I agree about Olivier Rousteing. His aesthetic is regal military chic with gold buttons, and I don't know what new image he could bring to Dior. I think that Olivier's aesthetic is more like Versace but less gaudy (I actually like his designs). Olivier's success comes a lot from his social media prowess so that could help hype up the Dior brand infinitely, but things that become too trendy have a tendency of falling out of favour when people want the next hyped thing.
Phoebe would not have been a good match for Dior. For Celine, perfect.
Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux did an amazing job, and their job wasn't easy. With their first collection, they were tasked to continue the codes of Raf Simons. They were not to disturb the codes that were already in place. Essentially, they were "place holders" for the next designer.
The industry reviews, although tepid (understandably, because their designs were not to "revolutionize" but rather "continue"), have been largely sympathetic and kind to Meier and Ruffieux. So even though their job was not easy and they were not able to express their own aesthetic fully, they have received industry recognition that people working behind the scenes can only ever dream of. I think they will have a more successful future in fashion with their newfound recognition.
I totally agree. A brand can only ride so long on its previous successes. Frida Giannini's long tenure at Gucci is evidence of what happens when things start to "stagnate". Her aesthetic was beautiful and wearable, but it was essentially the same 70s equestrian old look over and over again. Sales growth started to slow down. She was replaced by Alessandro Michele, who I don't necessarily like the aesthetic of personally, but his change of aesthetic was so refreshing and necessary for the brand. Gucci looks new again.
Yes definitely less flashy than Versace. It's funny because Versace is sort of my guilty pleasure haha!! I love the new clean/modern Versace that Donatella has been doing for the past few seasons though. The new Palazzo bag is amazing, I checked it out in person and the leather is delicious!
I agree with what you said about Olivier's social media influence. I think that is the main reason why Balmain has gained a huge younger following. Before Balmain was a couture house for older women, now they've taken over the young and hot grandkids of the socialites lol! I will say the last two collections from him have been slowly growing on me, especially the menswear. But the womenswear kind of has me a bit iffy. But all I know is that him at Dior would have been a mess.
Yup! It had become the same thing over and over again. I love Michele's new Gucci! I like to think of his aesthetic as "avant-garde nerdy librarian", which has me living! Gucci is heading back to their golden years again, something that was very much needed.
Now that I think about it, I feel like Alessandro Michele and Maria Grazia Chiuri have a similar taste. Their are many parallels that I can see. Maria has the more pretty, toned down look while Michele has a more loud, kitschy, colorful interpretation of the same thing.
There are some Versace pieces that I really like. They make wonderful gold studded details, but the thing I don't like are the baroque prints on the menswear. Looks incredibly busy and loud. There are pieces that I absolutely love, though. They have the best men's swimwear in my opinion, and I was really tempted by their Medusa medallion boots last year, although they sold out quickly before they were marked down more than 20% on Ssense. The pieces I like hardly go on sale anyway. Whenever I visit the Versace boutique during sale season, usually only the loudest pieces go on sale.
I love Balmain menswear but the prices are ridiculous. They are higher than a lot of other brands.