From Vogue UK:
"I WANTED to speak about the Dior heritage but I also wanted to speak something about me," so explained Dior's first female creative director
Maria Grazia Chiuri, backstage at the Musée Rodin, talking about her second ready-to-wear collection. Outside, celebrities and the world's fashion press began to assemble: Sienna Miller, Kate Moss, Ruth Wilson, Clémence Poésy, Karlie Kloss and Rihanna. The line-up at Dior is always stellar. And everywhere women wear Chiuri's hit Dior kitten heels from her first season with their dressmaker's ribbon, printed with the Dior logo, while others sported her prescient 'We Should All Be Feminists' T-shirts.
Although feminism is still - and always has been - at the forefront of her mind, it was the colour blue and work uniforms that fascinated her this season. The palette of the entire collection rarely absconded from a rich Atlantic sea-blue taffeta she found in the archive - only little forays into inky night-sky velvet, or black tulle ballerina dresses embroidered with moons and shooting stars in gold and silver thread, and flashes of all white. Denim came crisp and indigo, while workman's overalls had been colour treated to a sun-kissed pale violet. But again and again she return to the taffeta from the archive. "Christian Dior often used blue," she said, "and on top of this blue taffeta he had layered a black mesh so the colour became a blue grey."
"Colour can speak about many different things," she continued, laughing because - as per usual - she is dressed solidly in black. "It's very close to uniform. And blue is also about gender; blue is for men and pink for women," she added, as models had their final hair and make-up touch-ups finished off backstage. "Blue can be melancholic - you say, 'I am blue' - and also mean the blue of the horizon, so it can be hopeful. And it is spiritual and mystical," she smiled.
The last months had been a journey of discovery in the archives for Chiuri. Aside from the taffeta, she found an early lock she loved on some luggage - now transported onto boxy bags with thick guitar straps - and a prototype historical toile. "I like the old logo of Dior too, something a little retro."
Here was everything you could possibly want for your wardrobe, a simple goal she says was at the heart of her collection; ever the pragmatic working woman and mother. Less drama, perhaps, but endless pieces you would love to have in your life - from elegant weekend shearling dresses to hooded cashmere belted capes and mohair sweaters over pretty, pleated skirts. You feel she is trying to speak beyond the confines of fashion's demanding inner circle to the women in her life. And this includes her daughter; the workwear overalls, dungarees and denim will attract a younger customer for sure. And the lower-heeled pumps with the red heart on the heel ("made from one piece of leather; no cuts," she proudly pointed out) will be another hit accessory, on women's shopping lists absolutely everywhere.
It would seem blue is the new black - except when it's emblazoned with a red heart.
Source:
http://www.vogue.co.uk/shows/autumn-winter-2017-ready-to-wear/christian-dior/